A/C converted to OBA??
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A/C converted to OBA??
Has anyone converted their AC compressor to an onboard air compressor? I have an 06 6.0 that I would like to do this. I’m body swapping a 79 shortbed into the 06 platform and would like to make use of the A/C compressor for this.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: So. Jersey
Yes, I've done it on my rock crawler, Suzuki Samurai. similar compressor only smaller.
I plumbed it from the High side port to an adjustable pressure switch. this is what will kick the clutch in/out. From there I ran it through an oil separator. The separator is to catch the PAG lubricant oil for the compressor. The drain valve is plumbed into the Suction side of the compressor to recirculate the oil to keep it lubed. After that is the check valve to keep the air in the air tank that is mounted to the chassis.
Bigger the tank the better. I used a 6 gallon tank.
. This is all well documented on any of the offroad forums like Pirate4x4.
I plumbed it from the High side port to an adjustable pressure switch. this is what will kick the clutch in/out. From there I ran it through an oil separator. The separator is to catch the PAG lubricant oil for the compressor. The drain valve is plumbed into the Suction side of the compressor to recirculate the oil to keep it lubed. After that is the check valve to keep the air in the air tank that is mounted to the chassis.
Bigger the tank the better. I used a 6 gallon tank.
. This is all well documented on any of the offroad forums like Pirate4x4.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 32
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Yes, I've done it on my rock crawler, Suzuki Samurai. similar compressor only smaller.
I plumbed it from the High side port to an adjustable pressure switch. this is what will kick the clutch in/out. From there I ran it through an oil separator. The separator is to catch the PAG lubricant oil for the compressor. The drain valve is plumbed into the Suction side of the compressor to recirculate the oil to keep it lubed. After that is the check valve to keep the air in the air tank that is mounted to the chassis.
Bigger the tank the better. I used a 6 gallon tank.
. This is all well documented on any of the offroad forums like Pirate4x4.
I plumbed it from the High side port to an adjustable pressure switch. this is what will kick the clutch in/out. From there I ran it through an oil separator. The separator is to catch the PAG lubricant oil for the compressor. The drain valve is plumbed into the Suction side of the compressor to recirculate the oil to keep it lubed. After that is the check valve to keep the air in the air tank that is mounted to the chassis.
Bigger the tank the better. I used a 6 gallon tank.
. This is all well documented on any of the offroad forums like Pirate4x4.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
For plumbing to the tank I used hydraulic fittings and bulk hose to go to the tank. Out of the tank I used DOT air brake line and fittings for an air chuck in the back bumper. I use to use it to run airtools but now electric impacts are so advanced I don't bother. But it is nice to inflate the 35's when need be.
. Good luck. It's one project that will pay off. I still install onboard air on my trucks but I've used VIAIR & such electric units. With those when shopping try to get a 100% duty cycle or as close to whatever your pocket can afford.
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I have a York also but as you know they're huge so you have to deal with mounting. Then there is the pulley issue. The recovery rate is no better than the vein style compressor in my opinion. The only thing the York has going for it is it has a "crankcase" to hold its oil but it still puts some into the compressed air.
For plumbing to the tank I used hydraulic fittings and bulk hose to go to the tank. Out of the tank I used DOT air brake line and fittings for an air chuck in the back bumper. I use to use it to run airtools but now electric impacts are so advanced I don't bother. But it is nice to inflate the 35's when need be.
. Good luck. It's one project that will pay off. I still install onboard air on my trucks but I've used VIAIR & such electric units. With those when shopping try to get a 100% duty cycle or as close to whatever your pocket can afford.
For plumbing to the tank I used hydraulic fittings and bulk hose to go to the tank. Out of the tank I used DOT air brake line and fittings for an air chuck in the back bumper. I use to use it to run airtools but now electric impacts are so advanced I don't bother. But it is nice to inflate the 35's when need be.
. Good luck. It's one project that will pay off. I still install onboard air on my trucks but I've used VIAIR & such electric units. With those when shopping try to get a 100% duty cycle or as close to whatever your pocket can afford.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
But, I do have a Premier Power Welder. I had the alternator shop modify an old Ford alternator with an external regulator. I haven't touched it in over 15 years and is sitting in a box. I never needed for the Sami and I was already running a single wire GM alternator so that us one project I never got to.
Incase you're not familiar here is their website.
http://premierpowerwelder.com/shop/w...timate-system/
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My truck has the dual alternator but I left it stock.
But, I do have a Premier Power Welder. I had the alternator shop modify an old Ford alternator with an external regulator. I haven't touched it in over 15 years and is sitting in a box. I never needed for the Sami and I was already running a single wire GM alternator so that us one project I never got to.
Incase you're not familiar here is their website.
Ultimate On-Board Welding System with 115 VOLT 2000 Watt for Under Hood
But, I do have a Premier Power Welder. I had the alternator shop modify an old Ford alternator with an external regulator. I haven't touched it in over 15 years and is sitting in a box. I never needed for the Sami and I was already running a single wire GM alternator so that us one project I never got to.
Incase you're not familiar here is their website.
Ultimate On-Board Welding System with 115 VOLT 2000 Watt for Under Hood
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
I would contact them or look on their site. They have wiring schematics. But I don't think it would be hard. First you would have to follow the Ford service bulletin that explains how to convert to a single alternator for the charging circuit. Then the second alternator would be used ONLY for the welder.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2016
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I would contact them or look on their site. They have wiring schematics. But I don't think it would be hard. First you would have to follow the Ford service bulletin that explains how to convert to a single alternator for the charging circuit. Then the second alternator would be used ONLY for the welder.
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