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you don't need to remove the whole regulator to get the motor out, just poke the holes to get to the motor Bolts.
you need to drill out 4 Rivets to remove the regulator and is good idea to use Duct Tape over the top of the door to hold the window in the up position.
IF you want the Regulator out too then it is best IF the window is in the Up position too. the Reg Roller should slide out of the bottom window track.. the ends of the track might be bent keeping it in place.
not as Detailed as it could be, it's an Image from LMC Truck Catalog, but when you looking right at a door it should help to see how it all comes together
it is at least a Clean IPB
someone has messed with it before as my holes were already drilled to access the motor bolts,
just be sure I'm understanding this correctly,
I'm going to gently tap on #27 to separate it from #24
and when I say gently tap is that usually enough or would it hurt if I had to put some force into it?
I've got enough life experience to know hitting it harder is not always the best answer
Scott, I didn't have to use a rubber mallet or anything when I removed the power window motor (#27). There was some tension on it, but it came out easily enough. Lonewolf's suggestion on using duct tape to keep the window up is good advice. As I recall, the window fell down into the door when I removed the power window motor.
what the deal is ... is Item 23 has a Spring on it and is trying to force the Arm UP the Gear on the motor is keeping it under tension .. (item 24 is the 4 Rivets)
So be careful as when the motor is popped out the regulator will want to jump ... this is why I said best if the winder is all the way up and Duct Tape over the top of the door helps keep it there.
you can actually hold the winder glass down a bit with one hand and grab the motor with the other hand and wiggle the motor loose as Long as Item 23 is still riveted or bolted in place.
as long as the regulator arm has the weight of the Glass on it and is still fastened in place.. it is not going to act like a Mouse trap
Scott, I didn't have to use a rubber mallet or anything when I removed the power window motor (#27). There was some tension on it, but it came out easily enough. Lonewolf's suggestion on using duct tape to keep the window up is good advice. As I recall, the window fell down into the door when I removed the power window motor.
it's been a long time since I did motors on these trucks I don't remember exactly how strong that Clock Spring is but the whole idea behind it is Counter balance for the weight of the glass so the motor or Hand crank doesn't have to work so hard... over the years I have seen a few of those springs broken but it has been very rare and I don't recall seeing a broken one in a Ford.
So I was able to get the motor off, just a little wiggling and was able to leave the regulator attached,
The inside didn't look to bad and the plastic bushings do look a little wore down,
I hooked the motor up to a battery I had at my bench and couldn't make it spin, it sparked at the connector but the motor never made a sound, should it have ??
I tested the battery with a test light and know the battery was ok,
.
Last edited by Scott in TX; Feb 25, 2020 at 07:04 PM.
Reason: adding info
IF it sparked then it should have run... sounds like the Armature is in a bind.
of course this is just a basic DC motor theory and your motor has more than 1 Armature conductor ... DC Electric Motors
BUT anyway getting it to spark indicates that current is flowing thru the brushes and at least 1 of the Armature conductors .. of course if the brushes are real worn that contact may just be momentary ..... might be lot of carbon build up in the housing and rust...
at this point it don't hurt to tear it down more as you will most likely replace the motor anyway.
here is a Generic Video on the Motor section it may give you some insight to what you may encounter
at this point it don't hurt to tear it down more as you will most likely replace the motor anyway.
x2
Too bad it wasn't the plastic bushings, mine were in pieces. MAW tear the motor apart and see if you can get it working again. Looks like RockAuto has them for as cheap as $20.
thanks guys,
This morning before work I hooked the motor back up to the door to see if it would turn ( I don't know why I didn't think to do this yesterday, just know this is who your dealing with), it didn't, it didn't make a sound or even the slightest vibration,
I think I'll buy a replacement just to get the window working again and break the old motor open to see what it looks like, I did replace the contacts on a starter solenoid a few years ago so I've got that in my back pocket
motor success !! I bought a new motor and installed it last night, it surprisingly pushed right in and I bolted it up, window works great............ but as I was putting the panel back on I noticed the courtesy door panel bulb was burnt out, I thought I should replace it since it was right there but I couldn't remove the old bulb ????
I pulled hard with my fingers, tried to gently twist but the bulb is not even budging, it almost seems as if the bulb is one with the plastic but I really don't believe that,
Any tips/tricks for this ?
Last edited by Scott in TX; Feb 27, 2020 at 10:08 AM.
Reason: Adding picture
Ahhh the old Bulb Melted into the socket trick. Those Bulbs Pull straight out.... you may end up going to the Junk yard for new socket
You may be able to push parts of the broken bulb out from the bottom with a small Pick or similar tool... I say broken bulb as that is generally what happens while trying to pull it out
