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Jason, I notice you do not eliminate the quick disconnect at tank. It is my understanding that air can enter the fuel system, on the suction side thro the quick disconnect which is why most eliminate them. Any thoughts on supporting or debunking that theory? I tend to think of this theory as plausible simply because the rest of the fuel system is pressurized and should not allow any air into the system.
That is a well propagated myth. Almost comical in fact.
With the filter i recommend, you can SEE air if there is any. In the ultra rare instance there is air (damaged o-ring, etc) you can add the extra hose.
How often do you recommend changing the WIX 33972. Mileage or By sight? Is the 30R9 hose the same as the fuel injection hose? I'll pick up these parts today in case we need them this weekend. If we do not use them, I will install it on my truck. One of these days.
How often do you recommend changing the WIX 33972. Mileage or By sight? Is the 30R9 hose the same as the fuel injection hose? I'll pick up these parts today in case we need them this weekend. If we do not use them, I will install it on my truck. One of these days.
Most never need changed. Several I’ve done have over 100k miles on them. But, you can wipe the mud off and inspect it anytime you suspect it could be an issue.
I use a fuel pressure gauge to dictate filter changes. Plugged up pre-pump filter has a different presentation than primary filter obstruction.
I would rather have a fuel pressure gauge than fuel level if I had to choose just one...
Originally Posted by ajbrown208
This is the fuel injection hose I got the other day. Will this work as part of the "pre-pump" parts list?
That is fine. The ‘fuel injection hose’ typically has a viton lining (longer service life) and the higher pressure rated hose is less likely to collapse under vacuum.
Two questions.
1. Is 3/8" copper tubing compatible for the hutch and harpoon? I noticed you used aluminum for the 90* at bottom of tank.
2. Are the replacement O-rings hard to find for the FPR. I have two springs from years ago when working on mine and installing the fuel Crossover, in the event that rjdj1186 FRP spring is broke. But I can't even remember if they are O-rings, or washers, only that they are one time use items. Now I'm guessing washers.
Attach 5/16” hose and a clamp to ANY cheap pressure gauge from the local hardware store. Air, water, etc gauge will be FINE for this test.
Tape the gauge to the outside of windshield and monitor pressure by opening by opening the water drain valve.
on edit: 100psi gauge works good. Factory pressure is ~55psi.
I may try this if it's good enough for an inexpensive diagnostic purpose. Don't really want to spend $300 right now for the stuff I'd need to add FP to my CTS2 just to confirm or condemn a suspicion.
So all I'd need to buy is a cheap pressure gauge, maybe a 3 foot run of 5/16" fuel line and a couple of appropriately sized fuel line clamps... attach to (open) water drain port on fuel bowl and go for a drive?
I may try this if it's good enough for an inexpensive diagnostic purpose. Don't really want to spend $300 right now for the stuff I'd need to add FP to my CTS2 just to confirm or condemn a suspicion.
So all I'd need to buy is a cheap pressure gauge, maybe a 3 foot run of 5/16" fuel line and a couple of appropriately sized fuel line clamps... attach to (open) water drain port on fuel bowl and go for a drive?
Yes. Use fuel injection hose clamps. Regular worm clamps do not clamp ‘round’ and don’t work as good.
Also, for those reading - The adapter for ORB to NPT is only like $5 from Riffraff or dieselorings.com and usually takes 2-3 days to get.
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