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Great start on your build.had 1 question though,what did you paint your frame with? I used POR15 and it's starting to peel off.so kinda annoyed that I'll have to sand it down in most spots again.
I used a combination. As stated previously, everything has been run through the electrolysis tank except the frame, cab, and hood, which three were too big. Those I had media blasted, so every part is starting bare metal.
For the frame, after cleaning the media blasted surface with a good bath of acetone, I used Eastwood’s frame restoration kit, skipping the rust converter. Starting with the encapsulator an while still a bit tacky I covered the more pitted areas (mostly confined to where the bed sat, on top of the frame) with regular POR-15. Let that cure a little, but still while a bit soft we sprayed the entire frame a couple coats of the Extreme Chassis Black.
For the other non-sheetmetal bits I painted/am painting with regular POR15, and while still tacky finishing with POR Top Coat. So far so good.
The sheetmetal, after bare metal, is sprayed with an epoxy primer when I take it to the body guys. Flash rust after electrolysis is a much, much slower process than other derusting methods such as molasses or derusting solutions. Plus it gets everything off including paint, grease, adhesive, old rubber, body filler, etc.
Just a build update. Rebuilt the front hubs and installed the hangers for the front discs with my two boys last night. Need some caliper paint to finish that job.
Ran the door access panels in the electrolysis tank. Turned out perfectly clean, so I put in the whole door. Let’s see how that does.
You build is looking really good! I was looking at your last two photos though, and was wondering if you shouldn't install the bumper plates on top of the springs under the u-bolts. They have a curved area on top where the u-bolt sits to conform to the underside of the top of the u-bolt instead of the inside corners sitting on the corners of the spring. It would also give more clamping surface to the top leaf to hold the spring in place better.
You build is looking really good! I was looking at your last two photos though, and was wondering if you shouldn't install the bumper plates on top of the springs under the u-bolts. They have a curved area on top where the u-bolt sits to conform to the underside of the top of the u-bolt instead of the inside corners sitting on the corners of the spring. It would also give more clamping surface to the top leaf to hold the spring in place better.
Thanks for the tip! I did not know that. I guess I’ll need to find some bumper plates! Is that an orderable item?
I also did not put in the 4 degree shims underneath the springs above the axle. I figured I’d wait until I take it in to get aligned to see what it needs. No reason to not put in bumper plates, though, except I didn’t know I was missing them. Good catch!
You build is looking really good! I was looking at your last two photos though, and was wondering if you shouldn't install the bumper plates on top of the springs under the u-bolts. They have a curved area on top where the u-bolt sits to conform to the underside of the top of the u-bolt instead of the inside corners sitting on the corners of the spring. It would also give more clamping surface to the top leaf to hold the spring in place better.
anyone have a photo of how this should look? I’m not seeing one in the diagrams I have.
This is on my F4 but it would look the same on an F1-F3 just a little smaller. It is not a very good photo, sorry. They are a malleable iron or semi steel casting. I believe F1-F3 would use the same part.
The round area between the u-bolts is flat and is the area that the cone shaped rubber bumper on the frame would contact. There are grooves on each for the u-bolts to seat into. They match the shape of the bend of the u-bolts.
When I replaced my stock axle with a 9" I used the plates from a mid-80s pickup. Without them I would expect that top leaf to break at the u-bolts and you don't want that on the main leaf.
When I replaced my stock axle with a 9" I used the plates from a mid-80s pickup. Without them I would expect that top leaf to break at the u-bolts and you don't want that on the main leaf.
ok. I will need to see if I can find some. Thanks!
This is on my F4 but it would look the same on an F1-F3 just a little smaller. It is not a very good photo, sorry. They are a malleable iron or semi steel casting. I believe F1-F3 would use the same part.
The round area between the u-bolts is flat and is the area that the cone shaped rubber bumper on the frame would contact. There are grooves on each for the u-bolts to seat into. They match the shape of the bend of the u-bolts.
Ok. So I think these are the original plates. Then the bumper “cone” bolts above it. Does this look right? If so, I’ll restore these plates and order new cones (hopefully they are available).
Ok. Need some advice for upcoming steps. I do have another thread regarding the first question. That is, what to do about steering. I have the original F-2 steering box etc and a same year F-7 steering box etc. Wheels are 8” wide. Should I stick with the original box (not sure if it needs rebuilt or not), try to squeeze in the F-7 big box somehow, or go unoriginal power steering conversion setup? I want to hear all your thoughts.
second question for now, best shocks for this build? It has drop axle (stock axle done by Sid) and Posie drop springs. Rear springs manufactured based on stock springs with some leafs removed, for 3” lowering.
02-19-2020, 10:08 AM
