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Ok. Need some advice for upcoming steps. I do have another thread regarding the first question. That is, what to do about steering. I have the original F-2 steering box etc and a same year F-7 steering box etc. Wheels are 8” wide. Should I stick with the original box (not sure if it needs rebuilt or not), try to squeeze in the F-7 big box somehow, or go unoriginal power steering conversion setup? I want to hear all your thoughts.
second question for now, best shocks for this build? It has drop axle (stock axle done by Sid) and Posie drop springs. Rear springs manufactured based on stock springs with some leafs removed, for 3” lowering.
May I suggest you give some consideration to the clearance between the drag link and tire in a full left turn. I do not know what your plans are for tires/wheels but remember the original tires were "tall and skinny"; whatever box you put on it.
May I suggest you give some consideration to the clearance between the drag link and tire in a full left turn. I do not know what your plans are for tires/wheels but remember the original tires were "tall and skinny"; whatever box you put on it.
Thank you! Will do. I have the original rims. They were 6” wide. I think my wheel offset puts the new ones at a similar internal position, which I need to consider fender clearance, etc. I now have the discs on, so I can check inner clearance with the wheels.
I don't know if it's true for your steering box, but usually a large truck has a slower ratio steering box in order to make turning the wheel easier with a load on the truck. Might want to check how many turns each take from lock to lock.
I received back my newly manufactured rear springs. They don’t even come close to fitting So they need to be adjusted drastically. It brings up a good question. How should the shackle be positioned ideally, under no load? I’ll need to communicate this with the Spring shop, so they can get the eyes at the correct position. Thanks! It’s unfortunate, since I finally have all the parts to finish the rear end.
Another question I’m still mulling over. Is it worth it to go power steering, or just rebuild original box? Chuck at Chucks Trucks says he can fab one up, but it’s spendy.
I collected the parts to go power steering in my F3 (Toyota) and decided I didn't need power steering after all. I have radials and the stock steering wheel. Isn't hard to turn. Maybe if I had a smaller steering wheel?? Anyway, not worth the trouble of mounting a pump and exhaust clearance for ME to do it.
You need to set up your spring eye centers so that when the diff,tires, ie. all weight is hanging in the air from the springs, the rear hangers are sloping backward. Sorry I do not have a measurement for the spring eye centers, did your spring shop not have the old top leaf? If you want the driving "experience" you will not install power steering, you will learn (or relearn depending on your vintage) how to handle these old trucks. You will learn that in order to turn the wheels without a great of effort you do not turn the steering wheel unless you are moving; however slowly. You will also tend to avoid parallel parking. If I was doing a daily driver power steering yes, mine is not a daily driver and steering is manual with stock steering wheel.
I collected the parts to go power steering in my F3 (Toyota) and decided I didn't need power steering after all. I have radials and the stock steering wheel. Isn't hard to turn. Maybe if I had a smaller steering wheel?? Anyway, not worth the trouble of mounting a pump and exhaust clearance for ME to do it.
When I bought my 56 F350 it needed new tires. I wasn't sure if I should get bias ply or radials. I knew how hard my F100 steered at slow speeds with radials. Through discussions here on FTE, especially on the recommendation of Ray Tash, I went with radials. Ray said because of the larger ratio of the bigger gear boxes in F350's steering was easy even with radials. And he was right.
I received back my new rear springs. Fixed. He made the arch 9” originally, which was why they were too short. Now they are the stock 5 5/16”, and looks like they will fit just fine. Putting them on tonight. Now, brings up another question.
How do the springs attach to the axle. This is what I know......axle below the springs, u-bolts up, but what goes above the springs to hold it all together? The shop books are less clear on this. Are there any other components? Thanks!
It’s been a while since posting. I’ve been waiting for two key components to arrive, the brake master cylinder ordered back in January and the engine, ordered in February. I’ve been finishing the rolling chassis where I could, and ordering other parts for upcoming needs. Finally the engine came today! Here it is.
Mike Hermann. H & H Flatheads. 8BA, Navarro heads and intake. Dual Stromberg 97s (new, not rebuilt) carbs. Electronic ignition. Custom F-2 headers are almost done.
02-26-2020, 10:00 AM
