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Probably a stupid question but, where is everyone putting jacking stands when doing suspension work up front. Trying to install the ready lift kit and with the jack stands on the frame under the door area the truck wants to Lean towards the front. Need to get them further forward but can’t seem to find a good spot. Any help would be great
Just inside the front bumper and behind the rear axle both frame rails. Make sure you have the frame level. Make sure the cradle is stopping the frame sliding out on either side and the feet are on good solid flat concrete. Extra insurance, a lift under something snubbed up just to prevent something moving, sliding when reafing on suspension bolts really hard.
Just inside the front bumper and behind the rear axle both frame rails. Make sure you have the frame level. Make sure the cradle is stopping the frame sliding out on either side and the feet are on good solid flat concrete. Extra insurance, a lift under something snubbed up just to prevent something moving, sliding when reafing on suspension bolts really hard.
thanks. Seen the spot behind the front bumper. Just need to get the front in the air. Going to attempt to get it done tomorrow.
I had to buy a really good heavy duty floor jack and a really good set of 4 tone each jack stands. You want a high eanough lift to get things up on the jack stands high enough. Just be careful and make sure everything is rated for the job. The front end is flicking heavy.
Probably a stupid question but, where is everyone putting jacking stands when doing suspension work up front. Trying to install the ready lift kit and with the jack stands on the frame under the door area the truck wants to Lean towards the front. Need to get them further forward but can’t seem to find a good spot. Any help would be great
When it comes to safety, no question is stupid. That being said the above posts are the bee's knees
I agree. I have two 3 ton floor jacks along with two 12 ton jack stands. I have a floor jack under the differential(not crushing the cover) and one right to the inside of the the spring perch area on the passenger side. Just tried to get it up on stands early and seen the frame area was a little close to the balance point of the truck. When I let off the jacks the back started to lift up as well. Then the rain started and had to pack it up for the day. Looking to get everything done tomorrow. Thanks for the replies
I was able to put my jack stands under the frame rails adjacent to the front doors with no problem. My truck has an 8 foot bed, I wonder if the extra length (and weight) in back was the reason mine didn't want to tip?
I was able to put my jack stands under the frame rails adjacent to the front doors with no problem. My truck has an 8 foot bed, I wonder if the extra length (and weight) in back was the reason mine didn't want to tip?
Agree, I did mine the same way. I jacked it up enough to remove the front wheels, placed the floor jacks, lowered the axle until the coils fell out, put in the kit and got-r-dun. But watch the brake lines, don't bend them.
Got it done this weekend. Jack stands up front on the frame rails behind the bumper worked great. Readylift 2.5, with fox 2.0 and Carli brake lines. Just need to get the caster bushings, alignment and new wheels. Thanks for the help
Got it done this weekend. Jack stands up front on the frame rails behind the bumper worked great. Readylift 2.5, with fox 2.0 and Carli brake lines. Just need to get the caster bushings, alignment and new wheels. Thanks for the help
Looks good man! Might I ask what size jack stands you went with? I'm going to be doing the level kit next weekend, and some of the 6 ton jack stands say only 23.5 inches. seems kinda low to lift the truck up and let the suspension hang...?? Any words of advice after having done it? thanks.
Looks good man! Might I ask what size jack stands you went with? I'm going to be doing the level kit next weekend, and some of the 6 ton jack stands say only 23.5 inches. seems kinda low to lift the truck up and let the suspension hang...?? Any words of advice after having done it? thanks.
thanks. I’m pretty sure the jack stands I used were 12tons with a range from 19”-30” but, I’d have to neck when I get home. Not sure if 23” would work as the truck needs to be high enough for the axle and springs to drop down enough to get the spacers in. Install is pretty easy. You should fine.
Cribbed up just behind the radius arm mounts. It can be a decent amount of weight so use a property rated stand. Never had balance issues. I've been doing it this way forever on both gas and diesel trucks on level and large lift kits. Be smart while working under jacked equipment, proper jacks and supports, chocked wheels after on stands and be careful of rocking. I don't like having jack stands extended all the way out so I have a selection of wood blocks to build a base. Doing this on a pickup is a piece of cake vs a locomotive.
Cribbed up just behind the radius arm mounts. It can be a decent amount of weight so use a property rated stand. Never had balance issues. I've been doing it this way forever on both gas and diesel trucks on level and large lift kits. Be smart while working under jacked equipment, proper jacks and supports, chocked wheels after on stands and be careful of rocking. I don't like having jack stands extended all the way out so I have a selection of wood blocks to build a base. Doing this on a pickup is a piece of cake vs a locomotive.
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thanks for the pics and safety reminders. Having to use some wood under the stands for a few extra inches is what I’ll end up doing. Agree with ya on having the jack stands fully extended.
question for all of you who have worked on the suspension- if you jack it up enough to take the wheel off with an inch or two of clearance, then let the suspension hang down, will you hit the ground? Was thinking I could get the spring out, add the kit, then jack up the axle to get the wheel back on? Thoughts?
I did mine a while ago, so my memory is a little foggy on it, but I remember being surprised at how far the axle had to go down before the old spring would come out and then I need two more inches of axle drop to get the new spring in. So I would say that you need to be more like 6"+ above where you can get the tire off and not 2" or 3". And as was said before - watch the brake lines!
I did mine a while ago, so my memory is a little foggy on it, but I remember being surprised at how far the axle had to go down before the old spring would come out and then I need two more inches of axle drop to get the new spring in. So I would say that you need to be more like 6"+ above where you can get the tire off and not 2" or 3". And as was said before - watch the brake lines!
yea actually, looking at projectnitemare's photos again, I think you're right man. It looks like it drops down quite a bit. I've got to get some jackstands this week, so I was trying to figure out a good size and didn't want to come up short.
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