So my battery light and CEL officially came on. Can't find anyone that has a jumper I can borrow to fully charge my batteries. Can't afford to buy one. How long would it take to charge them by the old fashioned jump? And do the batteries need charged at the same time or can I do one and then the other?

I downloaded FORScan and my scanner will be here tomorrow so I should have codes for the CEL. Praying it's nothing expensive. I'm pretty tight on funds. Obviously didn't do enough digging before I bought this 6.0 and might not be able to handle it financially.

 

Battery light means the alternator is not working, probably the reason the batteries were not starting the motor well.

Batteries need a charger to replenish, not a jump or off an alternator. Charged individually, that can take 8 to 24 hours depending on the charger size. And a maintenance charger will not do it.

The CEL could be because of the low voltage.

The money pit can get deep, there is nothing inexpensive about this vehicle. I would try to find someone with a charger to get the batteries up.

i would check the plug connection on the alternator in case it’s loose as a Hail Mary. The alternators are not an unusual issue. Hence the video.

 

There is an Idaho chapter here, maybe someone can help locally.

 

Thanks Jack. I've been trying all afternoon. I'm guessing don't try to start it until I get the batteries charged? Or is the strain on the FICMs etc low enough they'll survive a low voltage start or two.

 

Just saw the Idaho chapter. I'm in Iowa. Is there an Iowa chapter?

 

Also just had time to watch your video Jack. Awesome info and very helpful. I wasn't clear when talking about the dash lights. They only are illuminated when the key is on but the engine isn't started. Once the pickup is started they both disappear.

 

If I read correctly you’re in Iowa, not Idaho. Both can get plenty cold. When you have untreated fuel (summer formula or number 2) in your tank and temps drop to less than 10 degrees you are in for trouble. You will notice a sudden lack of power then a stall. Continued cranking may wear down the batteries. Wait for the engine temp to warm the fuel in that area, then you have a short moment to get off the road with that warmed fuel then it will stall again. Treat the fuel in the tank with anti gel and get the truck to a heated garage ASAP. It should thaw so the waxes and such can dissolve. Kerosene is also an emergency fuel that can be used to get out of a jam. Mix it in the tank with the gelled diesel. Works for oil furnaces too. Change fuel filters because they will probably be clogged with wax. They are not difficult to change. See the maintenance thread.

From now on treat your fuel at the pump with a good anti gel when it is cold. Below freezing is a good time to start. Thinner oil like 5w-40 will make for easier starts. I use Ford’s cetane enhancer and anti gel, also Howe’s diesel treat. There are lots of them. I buy the Ford stuff in gallon jugs from the dealer, summer and winter formula. Pretty good price in that quantity.

 

I had winter fuel in it but apparently wasn't enough. I'm thinking now that my batteries just couldn't provide enough voltage to get it started. I now have anti-gel in the fuel and will probably just replace both batteries tomorrow with AGM (looks like I'll be eating a lot of ramen for a month lol). I also found a diesel performance shop in town that has raving reviews and might just have him bring it up to speed when I get the money. I don't think it was properly maintained for a long time and I don't know enough about these engines to dig out of this hole but hopefully can maintain the engine once the shop catches me up.

 

I'm sorry, I looked earlier today and just remembered the "I" part.

No, don't try to start with low batteries before changing the batteries and they should be tested before buying new. They may be bad, but they may not be. If you're in a tight money situation you don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on batteries you don't need.

You very well may not have a fuel gel problem now that its known the batteries may be low. The electronics of the truck needs to see the motor spinning 150rpms or so before it will start working the injectors. If the battery voltage is low, the starter cannot get up to speed.

 

With the lights going out, ignore the comments about the alternator and FICM low voltage warning.

 

Haha no worries Jack. I really appreciate all the help and advice. I'll take the batteries in to get tested on the way to class tomorrow.

 

There is a lot going on in this thread and you’ve received solid advice already. I don’t know what part of Iowa you are in, but I run a full-service diesel repair shop just south of Des Moines.

It will be interesting to see what codes you come up with. Stabbing at answers without data is tough to say the least.

Ed

 

From reading the thread I have to agree with what Ed said.
When you go to a diesel shop you can run into guys that think that you need to buy all sorts of things.
Most times you don't need 90% of it and right now I would bet of fuel has gelled and you might have
a batter that is going down with an alternator. When you go for new batteries take the alternator in
and have it tested.Also anti-gel should be added to diesel when the fuel is above about 40º for the
best results. So if you add it right before filling the tank that should be close to a good temp.

Boy may want to add to you tools a good battery charger that has a good changing capacity and a float charge.
If your getting AGM batteries then you will want that option for the charger.

 

At work, we have gelling issues in the highway maintenance shed yard with diesels parked outside for extended periods in really cold weather. We plug in with block heaters and they might only run a minute or two until the warmed fuel is gone. We make sure to get it into the shed before it stalls where we can get it warmed up. Best to treat everything with anti gel throughout the winter. We order number one diesel for the fuel tanks starting in November and it usually covers us. Service stations typically run a blend of no's 1 and 2 diesel, which may not be good enough for subzero weather. When we get called out to plow snowstorms with negative 20 degree weather it can be a gamble whether the salt loader runs or not (parked outside but plugged in). If it stalls we know to wait a few minutes for the fuel to thaw out because of the block heat. We usually get enough time to get it inside. If you are starting a truck that is this cold with no chance of heat you may be SOL.

I remember my Dad putting a blanket over the engine with a light bulb underneath. I once wired a clothes iron to the bottom of the oil pan on a truck one super cold morning. It worked really well but ruined the $20 iron. I wonder if you could get that to work on the fuel tank? Too bad they are often plastic... Cold weather can make McGyvers of all of us. Just make sure you stay safe.

 

Thanks fellas. Got everything figured out. Ended up the batteries were froze solid. One had actually bowed the plastic out. Got two new batteries (not AGM sorry can't afford them). Starts like a champ and runs like a top. No lights on the dash. Might have to get a smartphone now so I can get my data on the go. Kind of a pain to try and get wifi on my laptop hooked up to the OBDII scanner.