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Slow return to idle

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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 12:34 PM
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Slow return to idle

I have been searching all over the internet. I have a 1992 F350 460 4x4 manual, Starts and drives fine cold or warm. But while driving and coming to a stop light/sign the idle sits at 1500rpm, it does drop after sitting for a while at a long stop light. I have checked for vacumm leaks and cleaned the IAC and still does it, what else could be causing it? I do have ABS light that goes off and on. Not sure if that is causing part of the issue or not.

 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 01:50 PM
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when idle settles down, unplug IAC and see if it tries to die out on you, will let you know it works, check for codes, even if CEL isnt on, could have stored codes
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 01:57 PM
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Will check it out later and see
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 02:07 PM
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Do you hear a hissing from behind the gauge cluster when pushing the brake pedal with the engine running? You could be losing vacuum from the brake booster when stopping, and after it builds back up the engine idles back down. The seal around the brake rod gets old and worn, and will leak when the brake pedal is pushed.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 05:47 PM
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Don't overlook the mechanical bits, could just be a sticking throttle cable or stiff throttle body linkage.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 08:08 AM
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Update, so no hissing from under the dash, checked cable and throttle all seems ok, I unplugged the IAC and idle dropped right down. I assume I might have a bad IAC. I will add I don't notice it doing it when the engine is cold-cooler

 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 09:13 AM
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The IAC usually only does what it is told to do so the real problem could be elsewhere, have you puled codes?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 09:15 AM
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Not yet I still need to do that today
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 10:04 AM
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Following. I've been struggling with this issue on my 1996 for the past 3 years. Just kind of ignored it.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 07:38 PM
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Ok checked for codes tonight. 1 flashed 3 times then got a 34 and 95. I know my front tank pump is out and tank needs cleaned and pump replaced if thats even what the 95 means. The 34 not sure what that could be
the 3 flashes of one could be 12 not sure.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 08:22 PM
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34 is for EGR fault, depending what test it was for it could be indicating a position sensor fault or just an instruction you didn't follow. Either way an EGR fault won't produce your problem unless fresh air is getting into the system and the valve is hanging open when it shouldn't.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 09:07 PM
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Did the koeo test. If I was to block off the egr and get a dummy plug that should take care of that code correct?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 11:44 PM
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You can delete EGR and plug the intake but don't bother with the eliminator gadget because it only addresses one of the codes that will be set.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
You can delete EGR and plug the intake but don't bother with the eliminator gadget because it only addresses one of the codes that will be set.
So your saying just blocking off the EGR will cause other codes besides the 34? From what I have read it causes a CEL to come on. If other codes pop up but dont turn light on it would be worth it to have the plug that way my light is not on all the time.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 10:30 AM
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I have a piece of sheet metal cut to the size of the gasket sandwiched between my EGR and manifold. Been like that for at least 15 years. I have no idea what kind of codes I have. As long as the truck is running to suit me I don't check, but with the way I have my engine set up, I would suspect a few.

Black electrical tape carefully placed can eliminate those pesky anti-lock lights..lol
 
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