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79 f350 460. I loosened the distributor lock down and distributor is still frozen in place. Running engine and cannot adjust the distributor because of this. Any tips on how to unlock the distributor without causing damage?
Acetone and trans fluid, PB blaster, a basin wrench that is used for getting the nuts off a sink fixture. Or try a strap wrench, and a lot of patience. Do not get mad at it, you will break the plastic dizzy base, and then be up a creek. Do you have the a/c bracket in the way? If not a thin chain wrench may fit on the neck, back and forth back and forth. You have dissimilar metal corrosion going on (alum dizzy and steel intake).
In this bottle mix a 50/50 mix of 100% acetone and dextron/mercron automatic transmission fluid. The two fluids will separate like oil and vinegar so you have to shake the bottle well before spraying.
On my FE I made a little dam around the distributor shaft, poured some vinegar in it and let it sit for awhile. Then I cleaned that out and poured PB blaster, and then I gently tapped on it with a rubber mallet.
One of the old time tool manufactures used to make a tool for just that problem. I don't have one anymore but it cradled the bottom of the distributor bowl and used a screw that pushed down against the block. Gave a straight upward pressure on it. Last stubborn one I had took a couple of weeks of blaster soaking. Turned out to be stuck on the lower location in the block. The aluminum housing had corroded to the iron. The O-ring on top kept the blaster from getting down in. A tool that helped was a ball joint separator 'pickle fork'. underneath. Might need to get one for a truck since new ones seem smaller. Best of luck.
On my 460 I tried the solvents. They didn't release it. I used a pair of coupling nuts with companion bolts of appropriate length (after removing the hold down) to "press" it out. Place the bolt & nut combinations approx. 180 degrees apart between the bottom of the distributor and the engine. Be sure to keep the forces of the two "balanced" so you don't break the distributor's casting. That worked. Clean up the mating surfaces and use some anti-seize compound when re-installing.
Last edited by Ozzie H.; Feb 3, 2020 at 07:23 AM.
Reason: Clarification
I appreciate the help. Yes, AC. I have un stuck distributors before but never had one locked in so tight that I was afraid of busting something. Basin wrench looks like a good idea. Ill get everything cleaned up and soaking, soon as this infernal rain shuts off for a few minutes.
PB Blaster has a certain ... odor. It even attracts the ladies.
They'll come out to the garage yelling "WTF IS THAT SMELL!!??" So, I switched to Liquid Wrench. I know there's probably better products but either seems to work pretty good. Don't be in a hurry, sometimes it takes a while. I've had rusted studs that wouldn't budge spin out finger tight after a few days. A few raps with a mallet along the way helps.
After unbolting the hold down clamp, leave it on but VERY loose. Spray your penetrate oil of choice, drive the vehicle like normal. I would make refence marks to reinstall the distributor and have the timing somewhat close. The heat, vibration and centrifugal force will help to push it out/loose.
After a boatload of conventional method attempts, I packed the base of the distributor with dry ice. That finally broke the bond so I could get the distributor moving.
