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Old Oct 14, 2003 | 06:54 PM
  #16  
greystreak92's Avatar
greystreak92
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From: Gateway to the West
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Originally posted by Kikwear
Sorry, I like it the way it is and my boat takes up enough of my finances.
Ahh, I see, got yourself a nice hole in the water don't ya?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2003 | 08:44 AM
  #17  
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Kikwear
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Chicago
How does it go... "A boat is a hole in the water that one throws money into."
 
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Old Oct 15, 2003 | 10:18 AM
  #18  
mustangman65_79's Avatar
mustangman65_79
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 533
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From: Myrtle Point, Or
I have the headmen full lenth headers with 3/8" flange, and 14 guage pipe. No tinty sound, real solid, in fact, not much sound in the engine bay at all from the headers, all from the pipes. The only prpblem I had was I had to remove the front drive shaft and move the fuel line a little away from the headers. I would also wrap the fuel lines some more because of the heat. I put mine in with no lift, and from under the truck. It's a two person job though. Also I have no smog so it made it a lot easier
 
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Old Oct 15, 2003 | 11:33 PM
  #19  
Capone's Avatar
Capone
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 649
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From: Monterey bay area
Well, believe it or not, getting the JBA or high quality shorty headers is worth the money....because they bolt right on....and are compatible with smog equipment. Because the thicker flanges and tubing these flex and warp much less and keep the sound inside the header....

NOw I recommend the thermal barrier coating....this eliminates the need to wrap anything else up or move and fuel stuff out of the way....
and the coating improves performance with better exhaust flow (and since more of the thermal energy stays inside, the engine burns cleaner), your hoses and belt will last longer as will all electrical stuff under the hood.

So do I think paying the $450-500 for the headers....you betcha...

99.9% of people end up buing the cheap stuff and end up getting rid of them and buying the nice ones....so do it right the first time.

bolt em on and feel the power...
 
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