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First off, wow has this site really grown and changed! My profound apologies for not posting this in the proper area. I'll have to get more active again.
Here's my problem and hopefully someone can help. I have a 2006 F350 PSD 4x4 Its got 191k miles on her and been mostly problem free. Yes, first set of plugs replaced at 150k, dummy plugs and standpipe at 185k (solved the hot start problem) and a handful of sensors, 1 egr valve. So yes, fortunate that my maintenance schedule has saved me a motor rebuild thus far.
Now here's my problem....Coming home yesterday I applied my brakes and woah woah woah she aint really slowing down fast. Fortuantly I was one street away from home. Got her home, started checking for a blown brake line and discovered a leak coming from .....yea you guessed it the left hand frame rail right beside the fuel tank.
Now heres my question and I'm open to suggestions.. My bed rails are rusted bad. Bed its self is ssf solid.... has a line x bed liner. I've been planning on pulling the bed and selling it...(8' bed) anyway. Would you then be able to repair or replace the brake line any easier from the top? What are the options on brake lines now says? Are their one piece lines, or do I cut and have double flare fittings? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Also is their still a page here for local chapter of FTE and a parts for sale page? Cause if I remove the bed now....it won't go back on.... and won't sit in the yard.
Thanks for the help!
Drop the tank and then repair or replace the line. I have a 2001 that I pulled the cab and can tell you if it’s connected or one long line. I can’t do it till Saturday as I get home late and it’s too dark to clearly see
I recently replaced the line going from under the cab to the split rear hose. Tank and bed were left in place.
You can leave the bed on, I used some Ni-Cop from O'Reilly's and a couple new fittings. I'd also recommend putting a board or something between the seat and brake pedal to keep the master cylinder full while repairing.
Ni-Cop makes it easy to bend and match the original hard line.
It is my experience that if the brake line rusted through up in the frame rail, then the fuel tank straps are not far behind. Drop the tank, inspect it’s mounting straps, replace the brake line and the straps.
I repaired my mother-in-laws 2004 F-350 with the same problem. I replaced the brake lines that were reasonably accessible, and cut and flared to splice in replacement sections were access was an issue. She lives in upstate NY and they salt very heavily. By the time her brake lines failed due to corrosion, I recommended she get rid of the truck as everything under the truck was rapidly headed toward failure due to corrosion. Good luck Russ