Upper control arm eccentric
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Upper control arm eccentric
1FTRX17W31NC03570 2001 f150 4.6 xlt RWD
hello everyone the above vin is attached to my truck I’m doing upper and lower control arms along with all the tire rods,Pitman arm and idler, inlinks and bushings.
my question is for anyone that can help me. I haven’t took off the upper control arms yet whenever I look at the bolts I don’t see any eccentric‘s on them or on the nuts side. I do see castings molded on the frame on each side of the bolt where an eccentric should go. Does my year and model not call for them?
thanks for anyone’s time that reply’s or sees this!
hello everyone the above vin is attached to my truck I’m doing upper and lower control arms along with all the tire rods,Pitman arm and idler, inlinks and bushings.
my question is for anyone that can help me. I haven’t took off the upper control arms yet whenever I look at the bolts I don’t see any eccentric‘s on them or on the nuts side. I do see castings molded on the frame on each side of the bolt where an eccentric should go. Does my year and model not call for them?
thanks for anyone’s time that reply’s or sees this!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 170
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When aligned at the factory they install just lock it down once they get it in place. If you need to adjust it after the fact then you need to install adjusters such as these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2256&jsn=2256
If you are out of adjustment then you should look at your ball joint and bushing wear as they may be due for replacement. The upper ball joint generally comes as an assembly with the upper control arm.
If you are out of adjustment then you should look at your ball joint and bushing wear as they may be due for replacement. The upper ball joint generally comes as an assembly with the upper control arm.
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just for my clarity are you saying they come from the factory without the eccentrics(adjustment lobes)? also I am replacing upper and lower control arms with ball joints pressed in already.
thanks for the reply !
thanks for the reply !
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 170
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Yes. The factory does NOT install adjusters.
Mark the location of the upper control arm bolts before you remove them so you can get it close when you put it back together. Purchase and install the adjusters while installing the upper control arms otherwise the alignment shop will want to do it for you at a higher cost.
Mark the location of the upper control arm bolts before you remove them so you can get it close when you put it back together. Purchase and install the adjusters while installing the upper control arms otherwise the alignment shop will want to do it for you at a higher cost.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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You don't need ecentrics.. Mark the position of the bolts at this time. You can scribe around the nut, or wipe off the area and spot a few drops of paint on the nut edge. When it dries, you can see where the nut was after it is removed. Install the new upper arm and put the bolts back into the same marked position. you should not have to do anything unless the measurements were off to start with... If you know how to measure tow in with a ruler and two straight edges, and camber with a 2 ft level, you can verify your settings. I always double check the readings after installing the upper arms. I have never taken a truck to be aligned at a shop. You can not set the caster, but that should be close enough to original.. If you need more camber, you just loosen up the upper bolt and tap the upper arm in or out a 1/16 inch and check again.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
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From: Minnesota
As stated above....they are in slots, no eccentrics. Usually there is a pretty good dirt-rust indentation made by the bolt head and nut that you will see where to put it back. But I would still reference it with marks of some type. I never re-align it afterwards as long as my tires are wearing OK. Last time I did one though the wheel was slightly off to the right. I moved both toe adjusters a quarter turn on each side to that direction and all is good. If I had a GOOD and honest place to align stuff I would probably not mess with it myself.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 170
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Yes, while you CAN do a rough alignment at home I think the average person will take it to an alignment or tire shop to have it done. And I understand that most of those shops want to sell you a cam kit and charge for installation. So if you intend to take it to a shop for alignment then save yourself some money and install the adjusters yourself.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
Why would you need a cam kit if the upper arm is slotted? Can't they align using the slots? And I agree....having a GOOD HONEST alignment done is the best. I took my week-end only Mustang to get the toe checked since that is all that is adjustable. I told them that's all I wanted checked. In comes the guy with this huge readout showing toe is fine, nothing needed. BUT.....the right side has negative camber .75. He claims max. is .50, which is total bull**** on a Mustang They allow up to 1,25 negative as a factory spec. So he claims I need new springs and struts to a tune of $1,500 bucks. When that didn't work he says OK.....how about one camber bolt on each side....about $500. A set of camber bolts at Summit is like $20.00 bucks. Told him to give me my car back....here's your $79.99. Goodbye.
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Ok guys I will be attaching some photos of my work so far and would like feedback please
this is my upper control arm I have used white paint pen and outlined the bolt heads on both sides of the stud and on both sides of the truck.
https://i.imgur.com/la8LsuH.jpg
next I would like any feedback or advice on how I have my jack stands positioned, can I do any better, and please don't be afraid to critique me I am asking for it lol
https://i.imgur.com/BTfFDYb.jpg
lastly the pitman arm and idler arm I need advice and tips or tricks, even tool recommendations. How do I get them off? Picture taken from driver side fender well, pitman arm first then idler arm further down the draglink
https://i.imgur.com/QjxQZjd.jpg
this is my upper control arm I have used white paint pen and outlined the bolt heads on both sides of the stud and on both sides of the truck.
https://i.imgur.com/la8LsuH.jpg
next I would like any feedback or advice on how I have my jack stands positioned, can I do any better, and please don't be afraid to critique me I am asking for it lol
https://i.imgur.com/BTfFDYb.jpg
lastly the pitman arm and idler arm I need advice and tips or tricks, even tool recommendations. How do I get them off? Picture taken from driver side fender well, pitman arm first then idler arm further down the draglink
https://i.imgur.com/QjxQZjd.jpg
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
Marks look good. You will see a nice dirt mark too when removed. I put my jacks further back on the frame, can't really tell what you are on. My idler arm bolted to frame with two big bolts. I remember trying to get the second bolt started and stuck my finger in the hole and the thing sprang around and I thought it took the end of my finger off. Stupid move and got lucky.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
If a shop tells you then need ecentrics, then they really dont understand how to do an alignment... They are just connecting to a machine and doing what it tells them to do... If they understand what is going on, its not necessary.......... Also, you might have a "SPEC " of something like -1.5 to -.75 on one measurement.. If its at -1.5 they leave it... If you are getting tire wear on one side, it might be better to be at the -1.0 or -.75 end of the spec.......... But if they dont understand the measurements and just doing what the alignment machine says, then you get a generic alignment job.
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New User
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I have the jacks under the middle of the lower control arms
I used a pickle fork on the inner tie rod ends that connect to each side of the center or drag link not sure what to call it and I had to beat on the ball joint stud while the pickle fork was wedged in on the other side of the center link, is that normal or do pickle forks come in different sizes?
can’t say it enough but thanks for all the speedy reply’s and help hope they keep coming!
I used a pickle fork on the inner tie rod ends that connect to each side of the center or drag link not sure what to call it and I had to beat on the ball joint stud while the pickle fork was wedged in on the other side of the center link, is that normal or do pickle forks come in different sizes?
can’t say it enough but thanks for all the speedy reply’s and help hope they keep coming!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
there are different size pickle forks, and it is not uncommon to pound it tight, then smack the arm where it surrounds the tapered shaft to get them to POP..... it is better to pound on the SIDE of the arm that surrounds the ball joint stud instead of pounding on the stud itself.
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there are different size pickle forks, and it is not uncommon to pound it tight, then smack the arm where it surrounds the tapered shaft to get them to POP..... it is better to pound on the SIDE of the arm that surrounds the ball joint stud instead of pounding on the stud itself.