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Only about a month later, here's what I finally did to clean up that unsightly positive cable.
The non-stock positive cable I had:
Not exactly stock, but this cable had the flag terminal I wanted and a cover over the exposed terminal:
Motorcraft WC-8800A
I shortened the cable a little bit and crimped a new 5/16" terminal on the end. I also relocated the starter relay aft about two inches to reduce the curvature of the cable:
Definitely! Nice job.
Used to be easier back when you could readily find on-the-shelf cables down to 9" long at the parts stores. That's what I've used in the past and they worked well for my other applications (never bought a new cable for the '83).
Nowadays I use the military lug with cables that have two eyelets on them. But I really like the stock flag style too. But also like larger gauge cables, which yours looks like kr. Any indication of what gauge is used?
My '93 has the clean flag style cable (still original) but is longer and smaller at 6ga I believe.
Used to be easier back when you could readily find on-the-shelf cables down to 9" long at the parts stores...
Agreed. I checked several local stores and all I could find were those el cheapo blister pack cables. Nothing shorter than 12 inches, and all had a 3/8" lug. This really irritated my CDO nature, as the starter relay has 5/16" studs. I couldn't find anything available locally with a flag terminal, either. I specifically wanted that style because the offset helps ease the bend.
Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
Any indication of what gauge is used?
It wasn't marked anywhere, but it fit perfectly in a 2 ga terminal.
Cool. That's what it looks like too, but I've never heard of an original equipment Ford battery cable in that size. Maybe it's for a diesel application?
Hmm, looking at it again, I see the number is "E9DZ" I wonder if D means diesel. Seems out of character, but I don't remember ever looking at any other engineering numbers with the letter D instead of the usual A or T.
It's in the stock style, I'd claim it's stock, very few people would know different. Although it makes me wonder what you are compensating for with that extra LARGE gauge cable.
The eBay listing indeed showed this part as applicable for the Taurus/Sable. I almost didn't buy it, thinking the wire gauge would be too small. An OEM isn't going to make a cable one strand bigger than needed.
Imagine my surprise when it arrived and was beefier than expected. No idea why Ford used such a stout cable for that application. It's heavier than the stock ground and starter cables on my truck.
There wasn't much flex with this heavy cable. If fabricating one yourself, it may be worthwhile to go slightly smaller for more flexibility.
This picture shows the cross section of the piece I trimmed from the new cable, to the right. On the left is piece of cable from another project, marked as #2 gauge. The cross section of the copper looks the same on both, approximately 5/16" diameter. As previously mentioned, the new cable fit perfectly in a 2 gauge terminal.
Listing was incorrect? Unless it was a diesel car That cable looks a bit crusty on the inside. How much did that set you back? I need to replace my cables, will use the nasty worn out ones for now, will probably make my own. Personally I want a red one from the solenoid to the starter. Need to find me a good crimper. Although I've noticed you can't crimp and solder, and I like to solder. Unless maybe you could tin the thing, keep it hot, then crimp it. That sounds a bit like lunacy though.
Listing was incorrect? Unless it was a diesel car That cable looks a bit crusty on the inside. How much did that set you back? I need to replace my cables, will use the nasty worn out ones for now, will probably make my own. Personally I want a red one from the solenoid to the starter. Need to find me a good crimper. Although I've noticed you can't crimp and solder, and I like to solder. Unless maybe you could tin the thing, keep it hot, then crimp it. That sounds a bit like lunacy though.
Why cant you crimp & solder?
I cut little pieces of thin solder and put it in the strands of copper and in the fitting and put the wire in the fitting. I then crimped it and used a mini torch to melt the solder.
It worked for me.
Dave ----
Well good thing I don't fly with the truck or was it on the race car I did this on?
So what do you have to say about the battery end connection?
Is that not soldered on? Ok it is a type of solder in my book.
Also the factory ground cable has a "flag" in the middle that bolts to the frame to ground the frame and this is soldered on also.
I had to un-solder it and solder it on the new cable like the factory did.
Dave ----
Were those 4/0 cables you purchased very expensive?
Not me, must be thinking of someone else. All I've got is either a #2 or #4 ground cable I replaced when I got the truck because the stock on is about to implode. Need all new.
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Why cant you crimp & solder?
I cut little pieces of thin solder and put it in the strands of copper and in the fitting and put the wire in the fitting. I then crimped it and used a mini torch to melt the solder.
It worked for me.
Dave ----
The crimp mashes all the strands together and won't let the solder penetrate. Not sure that matters though, the solder will still tin anything exposed and help protect it from corrosion.
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That cable looks a bit crusty on the inside. How much did that set you back? I need to replace my cables, will use the nasty worn out ones for now, will probably make my own. Personally I want a red one from the solenoid to the starter. Need to find me a good crimper. Although I've noticed you can't crimp and solder, and I like to solder. Unless maybe you could tin the thing, keep it hot, then crimp it. That sounds a bit like lunacy though.
