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Anyone convert a 240 to a 300? My understanding is that the crankshaft is the only part that is different. Confirm? I also was thinking of boring the cylinders from 4.00" to 4.04" and using the 302 pistons. Do my piston rods need to also be changed, probably?
The reason I'm thinking to do this is because I like keeping the original engine in the truck, but want MORE POWER! headers, intake 4brl carb, upgrade cam shaft & springs/rockers. I bet I can get close to 300HP.
I realize that this is not the most cost effective HP upgrade but hey ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
If anyone has parts for sale let me know. I'm headed to the Turlock swap meet this weekend, any tips on what to hunt for?
you should look up the "in line six page" lots of good info there
it is my under standing that the rotating parts will bolt in and ive considered that my self
i bolted in the clifford dual carbs and chevy rockers and oh boy what a difference!
good luck with yours
Thanks for the luck! I got off a call this morning with a fellow in Clearwater Michigan who is gonna send me some used parts: a forged crankshaft, piston rods, camshaft. He suggested a 500cmf Edlebrock four barrel jetted down. Now to find a good machinist in the Bay Area of CA. Suggestions welcome! I'll spend some time with the "in line six page". Thanks
I have a 240 in my '65 F-100, 2wd. I put a set of split cast iron headers on the motor. Also bolted an exchanger under where the "log" exh. mnfld used to be. I used a 1" thick aluminum piece shaped real close to how the exh. mnfld fit up to intake. Hold it in place with the three bolts that are on the bottom of the intake. Drilled all the way through using the correct drill size for a 3/8" NPT tap. I then screwed nipples in then a 90 on each nipple, then another short nipple into each 90 so I could hook up heater hoses. The hole for the heater hoses is centered and goes parallel to the 6 cylinders. I figured I'd need to warm up the carb so it wouldna ice up.
I am telling you all that because of the huge difference the split mnflds have made. It is like a different motor.
If you have any questions, I'd be glad to answer.
Anyone convert a 240 to a 300? My understanding is that the crankshaft is the only part that is different. Confirm? I also was thinking of boring the cylinders from 4.00" to 4.04" and using the 302 pistons. Do my piston rods need to also be changed, probably?
The reason I'm thinking to do this is because I like keeping the original engine in the truck, but want MORE POWER! headers, intake 4brl carb, upgrade cam shaft & springs/rockers. I bet I can get close to 300HP.
I realize that this is not the most cost effective HP upgrade but hey ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
If anyone has parts for sale let me know. I'm headed to the Turlock swap meet this weekend, any tips on what to hunt for?
I didna mention in my previous thread of a couple days ago, how much difference just the split exh. mnflds have made. The difference is stunning. I put 730 #'s of cement blocks on the 1/2"x6'x6' fab. table ( it weighs 680#'s) that is on the back of my F-100. I also have a Miller Welder that weighs 500#'s. So all that adds up to 1,900 #'s+/- a few. I drove to a steep rd. Went up 1/2 way. I stopped. I put 'er in granny low (t-98). I take off like there was no incline at all. I ran the original one outlet stock exh.mnfld for 38 yrs. I don't think I would have been able to go up the incline with all that weight starting from a dead stop with the stock exh. mnfld.
It would be a good expertiment to drive your truck using the stock exh, mnfld. for a while. Then if your first change is the split mnflds...you will see a marked diference.
I too considered going to a 300 crank, longer rods etc. I am so pleased with the motor... now that it can really breath so much better...I am happy with the power increase, so I don't need to do anything else to it.
I have a 240 in my '65 F-100, 2wd. I put a set of split cast iron headers on the motor. Also bolted an exchanger under where the "log" exh. mnfld used to be. I used a 1" thick aluminum piece shaped real close to how the exh. mnfld fit up to intake. Hold it in place with the three bolts that are on the bottom of the intake. Drilled all the way through using the correct drill size for a 3/8" NPT tap. I then screwed nipples in then a 90 on each nipple, then another short nipple into each 90 so I could hook up heater hoses. The hole for the heater hoses is centered and goes parallel to the 6 cylinders. I figured I'd need to warm up the carb so it wouldna ice up.
I am telling you all that because of the huge difference the split mnflds have made. It is like a different motor.
If you have any questions, I'd be glad to answer.
I am still new to this game. I am taking my Dads old farm truck down to the frame. Currently has a cruise o matic. It will be a daily driver with ac, ps, front disc, Heidts front end.
Do you have any photos or videos?
Original engine is supposed to have 150 hp? What do you estimate you have now?
Did you use the Clifford dual carb set up?
So you want more power..... Don't lose track that the package needs to all work together. What is your goal - mostly towing, hauling, cruising or racing?
What transmission and rear gear are you planning on using?
Peter Sipp stated he runs his power through a T-98 4-speed transmission. Whereas, rrward2 says he's running a Cruise-O-Matic.
These two transmissions handle heavy loads very differently - regardless of the power the engine in front of them is making.
Years ago I owned a very tired '63 F100 with a tired 223 I6. But it had a T-18 4-speed transmission and the OE 4.11 rear gear set. Because of the final gear multiplication I could put the T-18 into the granny 1st gear, ease out the clutch and with 50 bales of hay on the truck, I could still tow not just one but TWO wagons of hay (with 150 bales on each) without any grunt. It is all about gear multiplication. Try that with a F250 equipped with a healthy V8 but with a three on the tree (three speed transmission) and a docile 3.5 rear gear and you'll be smelling the clutch in no time.
So you want more power..... Don't lose track that the package needs to all work together. What is your goal - mostly towing, hauling, cruising or racing?
What transmission and rear gear are you planning on using?
Peter Sipp stated he runs his power through a T-98 4-speed transmission. Whereas, rrward2 says he's running a Cruise-O-Matic.
These two transmissions handle heavy loads very differently - regardless of the power the engine in front of them is making.
Years ago I owned a very tired '63 F100 with a tired 223 I6. But it had a T-18 4-speed transmission and the OE 4.11 rear gear set. Because of the final gear multiplication I could put the T-18 into the granny 1st gear, ease out the clutch and with 50 bales of hay on the truck, I could still tow not just one but TWO wagons of hay (with 150 bales on each) without any grunt. It is all about gear multiplication. Try that with a F250 equipped with a healthy V8 but with a three on the tree (three speed transmission) and a docile 3.5 rear gear and you'll be smelling the clutch in no time.
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