Hey I got the heavy service springs on my 2019 6.7 4x4 Platinum and it sits a little higher. I measured 1/2 inch. Its a work vehicle and if we get like a rural job I would put bumpers on it to try to protect it :-/ .

It had bump steer so i put a fox ats on it. It went away for the most part but is still there.

I am going to ask when it goes in for warranty work if they will do the tsb on it or at least quote me the work (aftermarket parts and no time to argue).

I see they have a degree and 1/2 degree??

This is more a component or time and getting it done. I only drive the truck about 800-1000 miles a month currently and I am super swampped at work and personal life.

Whats yalls thoughts? I dont mind tighter steering.

 

If your getting bump steer, the front wheels are either aligned perfectly straight or slightly toed out. Either straight or toed out results in the wheels being toed out when rolling down the road. This causes bump steer.
have the front wheels toed in 1/16”-1/8”.
this slight toe in will keep the steering wheel front ripping out of your hands over bumps and help fight wander.

Wheels need a slight bit of “toe in”. Reason: theres play/slop in all the tie rods and ball joints. When the truck gets up to speed, theres drag on the wheels from rolling resistance. This causes an outward pull on the wheels, pulling outward on the steering components. All the slop/play in the ball joints adds up to a fraction of an inch. Have to compensate for that slop. Even if all the steering parts are brand new, theres play in the ball joints.

Caster is also a factor for handling. Most prefer more caster to help fight wander and road crown drift.




This info of needing some “toe in” is from my own trial and error. My 18 DRW wandered and bump steered Horribly. I then made my own toe in gauge and went to work trying different amounts of toe in & toe out.
Anytime i had the wheels perfectly straight or slightly toed out, bump steer & wander was present.
Anytime i aligned the wheels slightly toed in, the bump steer and wander went away.

My truck is stock height except for the larger heavier 19.5” wheels & 1.9” taller tires.

 

Thanks for the info and that is way easier than jacking with the caster.

 

Yep.
I had taken my truck to Ford lack of Service centers for alignments and they only ever made it drive worse.

i took it to an independent alignment shop that does alignments on a lot of solid front axle vehicles and they added more caster to the front right to try and fight the road crown drift. But it didn't help at all. All it did was ruin my lower right front tie rod end grease boot when the guy separated the tie rod end from the spindle.

Left Caster 3.8 degrees
Right Caster after new caster bushing
4.0 degrees

made no difference.

I made my own DIY toe in gauge out of some uni-strut and metal straps with holes in them.

DIY toe in/out gauge.

 

Warning: the caster /death wobble TSB decreases caster. Not what you seem to be saying you want.

 

Correct. Ford will reduce the caster if DW has happened. I think its a band aid for the root cause.
Reducing the caster will effectively reduce both front wheels from trying to center themselves as much. The action of the wheels trying to center themselves can add to the excitement and oscillation of the wheels.
The negative to less caster is a more wandery driving vehicle. Ford doesnt care about that. They dont want a DW DEATH lawsuit. Wandering steering wont cause loss of control.

Adding more positive caster will result in a stiffer feeling steering wheel and less road crown drift and wander. But can increase the chance for DW. But i dont think the higher end of the caster specs is dangerous or going to be the cause of DW.

 

Its so minor and the Stabilizer got rid of 90% of it. I just want to fine tune it. I will look at minor adjustment to toe.

 

What StonedGrey said about a slight toe in is the absolute truth. Coming from Rams with Thuren front end parts I’d always run as close to zero toe as I could and it worked. I tried that on this truck and it just doesn’t work. I run non flexible straight edges down my wheel faces and measure front and back to set my toe. 1/16-1/8” took away the constant chatter/feedback that drove me nuts.

 

If you have a go pro and can record some parts, look at both ends of the track bar when it wobbles. Also look at all of the other joints if you don’t see movement there. I have a hunch that the large rubber bushing on the track bar may be the culprit and will be designing a heim joint to replace that with in an adjustable track bar.