Distributor installation on 5.8l
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Distributor installation on 5.8l
Does anyone have a spec or service manual that may help? I have a 94 250 5.8 and the distributor is loose causing issues with it running correctly. I want to reinstall it properly but I’m not sure exactly how to place it before I tighten the clamp. Thanks
Cargo Master
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From: Des Moines
Remove the bolt and clamp completely and thoroughly clean the area on the manifold and the neck of the distributor (does not have to be removed) where the clamp will press when the bolt is tightened. Also clean the clamp itself as well as the bolt and the threads in the manifold - you want as much clean metal as possible.
Lightly lubricate the bolt threads with oil (3-n-1 or equivalent works well). Position the clamp so it’s fully seated against the distributor and thread bolt down finger tight against the clamp - try rotating the distributor slightly to check the feel. You want it loose enough to rotate easily by hand but with enough drag that it can’t rotate on its own if you let go or lose your grip with the engine running.
Bring #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke and align distributor base to rotor so it’s pointing at #1 on the cap (cap will have to be removed).
Set up timing light and run engine to operating temp. Remove SPOUT plug and rotate distributor to set timing. Verify the spec but I believe it should be 10* BTDC.
Once it’s set, tighten clamp bolt down just past snug (roughly 15 ft*lbs) with a socket or wrench - whatever works best for you. For future reference an index mark can be made on the distributor to manifold mating surface with white out or equivalent.
Lightly lubricate the bolt threads with oil (3-n-1 or equivalent works well). Position the clamp so it’s fully seated against the distributor and thread bolt down finger tight against the clamp - try rotating the distributor slightly to check the feel. You want it loose enough to rotate easily by hand but with enough drag that it can’t rotate on its own if you let go or lose your grip with the engine running.
Bring #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke and align distributor base to rotor so it’s pointing at #1 on the cap (cap will have to be removed).
Set up timing light and run engine to operating temp. Remove SPOUT plug and rotate distributor to set timing. Verify the spec but I believe it should be 10* BTDC.
Once it’s set, tighten clamp bolt down just past snug (roughly 15 ft*lbs) with a socket or wrench - whatever works best for you. For future reference an index mark can be made on the distributor to manifold mating surface with white out or equivalent.
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Freshman User
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Just to confirm your saying use the timing light on the distributor as appose to the crank shaft to aline the rotor where #1 is on the cap. And leave the housing/shaft to intake loose enough to align it to the rotor then tighten it down. Just trying to put it in my terms lol.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
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From: Northern VA
DB said it right.. but no you don't aim light at distributor, instead aim it at timing mark indicator! I suggest you watch some youtube videos on timing a small block ford.
In other words:
Step one: Remove distibutor cap.
Step two: Pull #1 spark plug and plug the hole with wadded up gum wrapper or receipt. (not all the way!)
Step three: Bump starter for a second until paper wad flies out of hole and the mark on harmonic balancer is getting close to 0 degrees TDC mark on the timing indicator
Step four: turn the harmonic balancer with a breaker bar clockwise until timing mark is exactly on 0 degrees TDC
You now have set the engine to Top Dead Center.
Step five: loosen distributor mount and turn housing until rotor is just bout lined up to where the #1 terminal on cap goes.
Step six: Verify timing is correct by pulling SPOUT connector and aiming timing light at the timing mark indicator --should be 0 degrees.
Step seven: loosen distributor mount nut and rotate dizzy while running until mark is at 10 degrees BTDC! Be careful of spinning fan and don't grab the plug wires.
You probably will need to clean the balancer and mark indicator and dizzy mount with brake cleaner and a brush. Fill in the Timing marks with some white chalk, nail polish, or paint.
In other words:
Step one: Remove distibutor cap.
Step two: Pull #1 spark plug and plug the hole with wadded up gum wrapper or receipt. (not all the way!)
Step three: Bump starter for a second until paper wad flies out of hole and the mark on harmonic balancer is getting close to 0 degrees TDC mark on the timing indicator
Step four: turn the harmonic balancer with a breaker bar clockwise until timing mark is exactly on 0 degrees TDC
You now have set the engine to Top Dead Center.
Step five: loosen distributor mount and turn housing until rotor is just bout lined up to where the #1 terminal on cap goes.
Step six: Verify timing is correct by pulling SPOUT connector and aiming timing light at the timing mark indicator --should be 0 degrees.
Step seven: loosen distributor mount nut and rotate dizzy while running until mark is at 10 degrees BTDC! Be careful of spinning fan and don't grab the plug wires.
You probably will need to clean the balancer and mark indicator and dizzy mount with brake cleaner and a brush. Fill in the Timing marks with some white chalk, nail polish, or paint.
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Freshman User
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Thanks very much I just watched a video on it and it actually doesn’t seem that crazy. They were not confirming with light tho,they were setting to 10 BTDC and turning the dizzy to the #1 spot and tightening it down. Once I get this heater pipe fixed I’ll be on it and update the thread. Thanks much
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Freshman User
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The distributor hasn’t been removed just is loose where it goes into the motor. And can move about an inch back and forth
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Freshman User
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Would the timing not being set properly be a cause of my exhaust manifolds to be glowing red. (Already cut out the cats) After the first short test drive of the truck it wouldn’t go past 2100 rpm and didn’t want to move the weight of the truck in gear very well. Like it was struggling to run under load?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 214
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From: Madison Ohio
Yes sounds like it out of time. You might have to try a couple of times. The newer timing guns you can program your 10 Deg before top dead center. Then just time to the ZERO mark vs the 10 Before.
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Yes I seen that in a few of the videos, a friend of mines father has a nice digital one apparently, he’s going to bring it over this weekend so I’ll be able to get it set then. The PO is a drunk and replaced the distributor cap and rotor and I guarantee he didn’t pay attention when doing it and happens stance it hasn’t ran since!... I gave him 200 and he gave me the truck and title. I’m no mechanic but for that price I said I’ll join a forum ask questions and try and figure it out and so far it has worked out on a few issues. It Also has some aftermarket anti theft system that was shorted out and I managed to remove that and reconnect everything after it was hacked in about 15years ago.. so far so good,I appreciate everyone’s input and help!
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Northern VA
Nice truck. Looks like Florida?
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