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Unfortunately my truck was contaminated most likely from the hurricane roll out in October. We were fueling right out of the tanker and off our 100 gallon tanks (that sit empty for months on end) I had used the bio cide after as a precaution and forgot the check the filter. Maybe since I installed it new on day one of the deployment. There was 9 k on the filter and I have a trip ahead with trailer so I swapped it out a few days ago. I’m unsure if this is Dead material from my first shock treatment months ago or if it’s been living in the tank the whole time. Another filter will arrive Tuesday is maintaining the biocide and trashing this new filter enough? I also left the in tank screens in because I didn’t have time to add the ps 120. Upon inspection at 180k the screens were dirty than at 250 when i dropped the tank for fun to check the screens they were clean. Now I’m wondering if I should drop the tank again to check the screens with this new evidence.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so, that could give you an indication on the condition of the OEM in tank screens.
If you decide to drop the tank again, you should have the parts on hand to eliminate the screens so you don't do this a 4th time. It might also behoove you to check the pump screen. As I understand it, this is not a replaceable screen and if it cannot be sufficiently cleaned you should consider replacement options.
Either way, you may need another treatment of biocide. It is fairly cheap and can save headaches in the future.
After having a bad algae contamination issue in a Mercedes I can tell you it is very likely the tank screens will clog, do what Sous says and get rid of them altogether asap. I certainly would not leave on a trip with those screens still in there, you are asking for trouble. Also carry a few spare fuel filters, depending on how much crap is in the system they can fill up quick. Years after I fixed the issue in the Mercedes I removed the tank and there was still lots of brownish specs near the bottom, looked like pepper. There was also a dark brown layer covering everything that was very stubborn to scrub off. I ended up replacing the sender because there was no way to clean the coating off the resistor winding and it wouldn't work anymore.
No fuel pressure gauge atm with the pump costing 85 I’m going to swap it before I get a gauge. The RRFPR spring made a big difference on the other 7.3 and mine (which had a 1 year old motor craft spring) so My thinking is just drop in a fresh pump Naturally the FP gauge I do want is a soft 200 something last I looked lol
I will price out deleting the screens and open the fuel bowl tomorrow morning for inspection. Can’t wait to have the new front springs ordered....a/c overhaul and this surprise has that on hold. Then it’s a full assault on the rear going 2011 with e locker!
Supplementary fuel issues stripped thread on fuel sending unit leading to engine bogging down under way and a gallon of water in the tank on the vessel. brake parts cleaner straw goes 3mm down before bottoming out vs 8mm in other holes.
and on my other ride I can’t decide if I should run 93 with ethanol or 90 ethanol free which is a whole 1 octane less than the recommend 95 octane on the Euro scale My friend that sold it to me for the cost of the rebuild currently he is riding a 2019 2 stroke model “you change the oil like a car no need to add any to the tank” 😂 he has shown me the engine is as tough as a 7.3
A little late to this party but you'd be well served to shock your fuel tank with a biocide and then use a little as a maintenance precaution for a couple of tankfulls. My recommendation would be Hammonds Biobor JF Fuel Microbiocide. This is the stuff they use in jet fuel.
Also, make sure you completely fill the tank up when you add biocide. That way it gets coated on all the inner surface of the tank otherwise you might not get it all.
