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I have a 2020 f250
installed a ready lift 2.5” lift With track bar relocator. The truck is at the dealership right now and it is currently on the alignment rack. They are telling me the alignment numbers are good and not to change anything. Can anyone give me their advice on the caster
The dealer is telling me that they do not want to use the shims and the alignment specs are where they need to be. He states that Ford wants the camber where it is because it reduces the chance of the death wobble
Since it is out of Min/Max range on numbers which in this case, a lower number. I don't understand their logic. May reduce the chance of death wobble, but also reduce the chance of the steering wheel straightening after you turn a corner.
What was the caster numbers before the lift and how did it drive?
First off, I have a stock 2019 F-350 4x4 diesel. My alignment was checked when a dealership in Tucson replaced my FIRST defective steering stabilizer. My caster is +4.0 (upper limit is +4.7) on the L and +4.3 (upper limit is +5.0) on the R. This is just fine in my opinion. Many owners who claim to know a lot more than me about caster (that doesn’t take much knowledge) have said that high caster is preferable. I believe that Ford was setting caster in the high +2’s on the 2018’s. Ford issued two TSB’s for repair of Sustained Steering Wheel Oscillation, 18-2268 and 19-2274 (I might have these numbers a bit off). In the 18 version, they recommended setting caster at the low end of the range which was in the very high +1’s; however, I believe they were setting it in the mid-+2’s. You could search this forum for numerous posts about Death Wobble, beginning in late 2018, if you wanted to see some actual values. If you decide to do so, you better get a comfortable chair and have lots of time. Then in the 19 version, they recommended setting caster to the HIGH end of the range. Do not ask me to explain further; it’s above my pay grade.
Again, I have NO experience with lift kits. But I’d say your caster numbers are WAY LOW. How can anyone with a minimal intelligence look at the reported range of +1.5 to +4.1 and say values of +0.6 and +0.9 are in that range? That was obviously a rhetorical question. Enough said.
I don't know if it is the same with Super Duties, but the standard for lifted Tacoma's was to increase caster even higher than factory spec to help with on-center steering and steering return. With a 2" to 3" lift, the target was 3* or more.
Looking at your sheet, the caster on both sides is well below the minimum spec (0.6 L and 0.9 R, when the range is 1.5 to 4.1). I imagine that your truck will wander around quite a bit with that low of caster (very light steering, very little self-return, etc.). Even the cross-caster measurement is out of the published range on the sheet.
I'd take it somewhere other than the dealer. Look for a shop that specializes in lifted trucks if possible. 2.5" isn't much, but it still changes the geometry a bit .
You need castor. You have none. Lol. They're telling you it's fine because their either do not have the castor shims or they just plain don't want to do it. I'd make them do it. You paid for an alignment. They are skimping on you.That spec is not acceptable. You took castor out when leveling so you need to put it back.
Thanks for the replies, It is much appreciated.
I have the 2.3 and 2.6° shims. I even informed the dealer they were in the truck. Will those shims put me where I need to be?
If I recall it was 2.3° on the driver side and 2.6° on the passenger side
Thanks for the replies, It is much appreciated.
I have the 2.3 and 2.6° shims. I even informed the dealer they were in the truck. Will those shims put me where I need to be?
If I recall it was 2.3° on the driver side and 2.6° on the passenger side
This is correct. On my truck with 38's and no lift, it brought the driver side caster up to just under 5 degrees and passenger side a little higher than 5 degrees. Truck feels and drives great at these settings.
keep in mind that the rolling truck will increase that number
Thought the whole reason for toe in, was to get wheels closer to pointed straight under load, while moving.
Hence that should decrease toe in, when rolling, I believe.
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