wheel bearings
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
wheel bearings
OK, I've got to work on my F450's front end. I've described before how the driver's side shock was not connected on the top when I got it, and when I bought a new one, the sealed plastic parts bag included only had one top washer, so I figured it was supposed to only have one and installed it that way. Now, my tire is scalloped and bouncing as I drive.
But, I also hear some howling when I turn right, and I have this stumble in the last seconds before I slow to a complete stop. I thought it was the engine, now I think it's the bearing going out.
Looking at the replacement instructions in the online repair guide I have access to, it looks pretty straightforward, but these 450 parts are so big and heavy. I hesitate to start in on it and then figure out I can't finish. For example, it says the calipers have to be torqued to 295 ftlbs. WTH? I'm thinking the truck has to be on a lift just to get room to put a long enough cheater pipe on a wrench to pull that hard. Also says I have to remove 4 studs using two of the nuts on each stud - what's the chances I'll be able to break those loose on a truck this old?
Or, maybe the better question - how much would a shop charge to replace that bearing?
But, I also hear some howling when I turn right, and I have this stumble in the last seconds before I slow to a complete stop. I thought it was the engine, now I think it's the bearing going out.
Looking at the replacement instructions in the online repair guide I have access to, it looks pretty straightforward, but these 450 parts are so big and heavy. I hesitate to start in on it and then figure out I can't finish. For example, it says the calipers have to be torqued to 295 ftlbs. WTH? I'm thinking the truck has to be on a lift just to get room to put a long enough cheater pipe on a wrench to pull that hard. Also says I have to remove 4 studs using two of the nuts on each stud - what's the chances I'll be able to break those loose on a truck this old?
Or, maybe the better question - how much would a shop charge to replace that bearing?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
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From: West by God Virginyuh
The job is definitely pretty straightforward. But like you’re thinking, it can really suck. And on the 450 those brake caliper bracket bolts are TIGHT, and even worse if they’re corroded. A 12pt socket and a loooong breaker bar help with getting leverage.
Remove the brake caliper, pads, and bracket, remove locking hub if 4x4, remove the brake rotor and wheel spacer, and 4 nuts holding the studs on the backside of the knuckle, and most likely have to beat the s*** out of the hub bearing assembly to get it out of there. Usually the replacement bearing will come with replacement studs, but you may want to get the stud/nut replacement kit beforehand, will come in handy if a nut gets messed up or a stud comes out with the nut and you can’t salvage that nut.
Remove the brake caliper, pads, and bracket, remove locking hub if 4x4, remove the brake rotor and wheel spacer, and 4 nuts holding the studs on the backside of the knuckle, and most likely have to beat the s*** out of the hub bearing assembly to get it out of there. Usually the replacement bearing will come with replacement studs, but you may want to get the stud/nut replacement kit beforehand, will come in handy if a nut gets messed up or a stud comes out with the nut and you can’t salvage that nut.
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Logistics Pro
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Thanks, Funky. I'm thinking I won't be able to get a long enough breaker bar on those nuts with the truck on jack stands in my driveway. Probably needs to be up on a lift, which means taking it to the shop. Probably safest bet too.
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Logistics Pro
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Dang, I'm seeing a wide range of prices for a new hub/bearing assembly, form $100 to several hundred dollars, but the labor costs seem pretty reasonable - a couple of hours. That seems fast. Wonder if I'm missing something.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Houston, Texas
Hey, a related question: I need to replace the tire and I found a cheap one on Ebay that's the right size - 225\70\19.5 - but when I plug in my truck, it says it doesn't fit that vehicle. I haven't found the detailed specs on the OEM tires for my truck, but that one seems sufficient - 3970lbs capacity, 14 ply, speed rating is faster than I'd ever go. What could be different that makes the app say it doesn't fit my truck?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,480
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From: West by God Virginyuh
There are some good ones and bad ones out there. I’ve had good experience with Motorcraft and also Timken brand. Others...not so much. I usually get them from RockAuto, best prices I’ve found even with shipping.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 161
From: West by God Virginyuh
Hey, a related question: I need to replace the tire and I found a cheap one on Ebay that's the right size - 225\70\19.5 - but when I plug in my truck, it says it doesn't fit that vehicle. I haven't found the detailed specs on the OEM tires for my truck, but that one seems sufficient - 3970lbs capacity, 14 ply, speed rating is faster than I'd ever go. What could be different that makes the app say it doesn't fit my truck?
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Logistics Pro
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From: Houston, Texas
Thanks, Bro. I only have a cheap Harbor Freight impact. I'm thinking maybe a stout box wrench and 4lb sledge hammer. Wondering whether I try to replace the bearing or buy the bearing/hub assembly. Do I assume correctly that the races can be pounded out with a hammer and punch, or do I need a machine shop to press them? Is it a PITA that makes it worth buying the assembly?
I'm thinking that I might be able to do all the labor and then drive the truck, slowly, to a shop and have them torque the bolts.
Rock Auto must have 20 different part numbers. Not sure which one is on my truck.
I'm thinking that I might be able to do all the labor and then drive the truck, slowly, to a shop and have them torque the bolts.
Rock Auto must have 20 different part numbers. Not sure which one is on my truck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 161
From: West by God Virginyuh
I’d definitely recommend buying the assembly...if I remember correctly they are not rebuildable. Dynatrac sells a rebuildable assembly for, like, $2000😳
If RockAuto has timken brand assembly listed for your truck that’s what I’d get. What year is your truck?
If RockAuto has timken brand assembly listed for your truck that’s what I’d get. What year is your truck?
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Warsaw KY
One more thought. My local autozone shows a battery impact for loan that goes to 300 ft.pounds. It ,however, says it is not available. It might be worth checking your area or maybe a tool rental place. The last time I did the caliper brackets on my truck I tweaked my back which is never good. At almost 60 getting into the correct position before straining is very important. An impact wrench immediately went on my Christmas wish list.
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Logistics Pro
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Dang, hoped to do it immediately, but I got a Monday trip to Austin and back. But, it just made it through a 2500 mile trip to Florida, so I hope it'll last another 500 miles.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Houston, Texas
One more thought. My local autozone shows a battery impact for loan that goes to 300 ft.pounds. It ,however, says it is not available. It might be worth checking your area or maybe a tool rental place. The last time I did the caliper brackets on my truck I tweaked my back which is never good. At almost 60 getting into the correct position before straining is very important. An impact wrench immediately went on my Christmas wish list.
I'll check out the part stores, but don't recall seeing an impact on their list of loaners. Thinking that I might get a shop to break them loose and torque them back after I do the rest, but I guess most don't want any part of such a job.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Houston, Texas
Looking at bearing/hub assemblies on Rock Auto; there's no consistency in the descriptions. There's a Timken that says 2WD "MonoBeam axle." I guess that's what these trucks have. However, it's "non-driven" while others are "driven." Some others say 4x2 or note that there's dual real wheels. Most don't say Monobeam. A Motorcraft hub doesn't say whether it's driven or not, or the axle type, but says "OE design" Here's some links. Any advice?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=494
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=492
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=486