wheel bearings
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 258
Likes: 72
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
I was able to get my calipers off on jackstands. They were definitely tight though and they had blue loctite on them. I used a standard Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar and 6 pt socket to do it. Jackstands were 6 ton rated which give a fair amount of vehicle lift. But this was for an F250 and I'm not in my 60's either. Wonder if the service manual show's any difference in torque specs between the F250 and 450. Torqued them back on to whatever factory spec was using Permatex blue threadlocker and a Proto 1/2" torque wrench.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 161
From: West by God Virginyuh
Yeah, I went ahead and ordered it.
Looking at bearing/hub assemblies on Rock Auto; there's no consistency in the descriptions. There's a Timken that says 2WD "MonoBeam axle." I guess that's what these trucks have. However, it's "non-driven" while others are "driven." Some others say 4x2 or note that there's dual real wheels. Most don't say Monobeam. A Motorcraft hub doesn't say whether it's driven or not, or the axle type, but says "OE design" Here's some links. Any advice?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=494
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=492
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=486
Looking at bearing/hub assemblies on Rock Auto; there's no consistency in the descriptions. There's a Timken that says 2WD "MonoBeam axle." I guess that's what these trucks have. However, it's "non-driven" while others are "driven." Some others say 4x2 or note that there's dual real wheels. Most don't say Monobeam. A Motorcraft hub doesn't say whether it's driven or not, or the axle type, but says "OE design" Here's some links. Any advice?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=494
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=492
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432609&jsn=486
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 699
Likes: 20
I know the 450 is bigger but I just did all of this on my 06 F350. It was not bad with a big cheater. Put it on jack stands remove the wheels then turn the steering wheel. Had plenty of room for my break over bar and a 3' pipe extension. I actually broke a 1/2" socket getting it off but its doable. Good luck
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
I know the 450 is bigger but I just did all of this on my 06 F350. It was not bad with a big cheater. Put it on jack stands remove the wheels then turn the steering wheel. Had plenty of room for my break over bar and a 3' pipe extension. I actually broke a 1/2" socket getting it off but its doable. Good luck
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
Well, Bonehead strikes again. I replaced that new shock, the one that only had one washer in the sealed up bag so I installed it anyway figuring it was supposed to be that way. And the new tire that got scalloped by that shock when it pushed through the rubber bushing without a washer. Now, it rides smooth with no grinding noise that a bad bearing would cause and also no more of the slight stumble I'd feel every time I came to a halt. Amazing what a bad tire can cause.
So, no need for a bearing and the engine is running fine (thought it might be causing the stumble).
Just need to replace my oil cooler - the delete, new water pump, and cooler backflush made no difference - it still runs around 15, and if I go over about 60 for a few miles my EOT temps will climb into the 220s and the delta up to 20. As long as I stay at 60, my temps and delta are OKish. But, I don't drive much over 60 anyway pulling my trailer (I know, y'all curse me on the highway). Also need to find/fix the freon leak before the weather warms up, and I need a new windshield.
It still never ends, but cheaper than truck payments.
Meantime, I'm worried about Razzi, he's not returning my calls/messages. I'd sure like my turbo back; this early model one I got at the dismantler is so noisy.
Thanks for the help and sorry for wasting your time.
So, no need for a bearing and the engine is running fine (thought it might be causing the stumble).
Just need to replace my oil cooler - the delete, new water pump, and cooler backflush made no difference - it still runs around 15, and if I go over about 60 for a few miles my EOT temps will climb into the 220s and the delta up to 20. As long as I stay at 60, my temps and delta are OKish. But, I don't drive much over 60 anyway pulling my trailer (I know, y'all curse me on the highway). Also need to find/fix the freon leak before the weather warms up, and I need a new windshield.
It still never ends, but cheaper than truck payments.
Meantime, I'm worried about Razzi, he's not returning my calls/messages. I'd sure like my turbo back; this early model one I got at the dismantler is so noisy.
Thanks for the help and sorry for wasting your time.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 161
From: West by God Virginyuh
Ha not a waste of time, and glad you got it figured out.
In case you DO have to replace the hubs in the future, I’d get either Timken SP940203 or the Motorcraft HUB155 at RockAuto. The “OE Design” designation of the Motorcraft one means it’s made to be the same as the original one that was on the truck at assembly. The “service design” one is not. What that means I’m not sure.
I just recently replaced both my front hubs with Timken’s, and I’ve heard nothing but good things about their bearings.
In case you DO have to replace the hubs in the future, I’d get either Timken SP940203 or the Motorcraft HUB155 at RockAuto. The “OE Design” designation of the Motorcraft one means it’s made to be the same as the original one that was on the truck at assembly. The “service design” one is not. What that means I’m not sure.
I just recently replaced both my front hubs with Timken’s, and I’ve heard nothing but good things about their bearings.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2019
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Here is the pdf for their catalog.
http://www.timken.com/pdf/10856_Whee...ll%20Sheet.pdf
http://www.timken.com/pdf/10856_Whee...ll%20Sheet.pdf
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,834
Likes: 3,130
From: Jersey Shore
Lower cost to better compete in the aftermarket replacement world for service garages and DIY.
The key words I look for is it is valid as a warranty replacement. Ford is going to want to protect from getting into a lemon law buy-back, so they require the good stuff within the warranty period.
Another situation, if the consumer complains in the service advisory desk on costs (since the dealer labor rate will be high), it also gives the service writer a way to compete with independents since the dealers won’t discount labor.
The key words I look for is it is valid as a warranty replacement. Ford is going to want to protect from getting into a lemon law buy-back, so they require the good stuff within the warranty period.
Another situation, if the consumer complains in the service advisory desk on costs (since the dealer labor rate will be high), it also gives the service writer a way to compete with independents since the dealers won’t discount labor.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 161
From: West by God Virginyuh
Yep, what I meant and didn’t articulate well was whether the “service design” would not last as long as the “OE Design”. I assume not, but in assuming in the past I’ve gone beyond the “make an a$$ of u and me” and straight to “man, I’m a dumb m*****f*****” territory 😂
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 258
Likes: 72
I agree and glad that he posted this thread. Just goes to show diagnosis isn't always straightforward. As if we needed reminding of that as 6.0 owners. Could prove useful with searches for similar issues.