Not getting power to the tanks, or you've got two bad pumps. Going to post a diagram of the electrical. You'll have to check for power at different points in the system to see what's not letting power through, starting with the fusible link. But first thing's first. Check the inertia switch, usually located at the firewall near the floor, usually right of the driver floor pan. See if it's been tripped. Should have a reset button.

 

Did you see post #15? He said the engine had no reaction to a shot of starting fluid, not even a cough.

The only time I've had no response to starting fluid? That was due to weak or no spark. One gotcha to consider is If the plugs were wet from flooding. You can pull a plug or two and make sure they are dry. Or you can pull a plug wire and check for spark. I'm not saying there isn't also a fuel problem here, but with the starting fluid temporarily taking the place of the entire fuel system, something should have happened if the ignition system was firing.

It wouldn't hurt to repeat the starting fluid test one more time, just for giggles. Just remember don't keep trying more and more. That's when you can cause damage.

 

I sure didn't. Looks like you should test for spark, just to rule it out. Went back and saw where you said you could hear the pump spinning up. With fuel in the front and back tank, that sort of rules out the fuel system(assuming you can still hear the pump running).

 

Prior to engine not starting we had just been driving for an hour, some of it on rough bumpy roads. This may have contributed to a very slighty lose positive terminal on battery. So the engine was warm. We stopped for 30 minutes then engine wouldnt crank. As I have mentioned I now have no spark. Would I be wise to check ignition coil first?

 

One quick clarification, please.

You mentioned currently having no spark. Are you saying that only because there was no response to starting fluid? Or did you physically check for spark at one of the plug wires?

The starting fluid test was mainly to determine which to check next, ignition or fuel.

 

Nonresponsive to starter fluid, I will check for spark at end of plug next.

 

Aside from the loose battery cable, perhaps it's possible you had and still have multiple issues.
I'm out of my league here with the other guys regarding an '86, but the ECM power relay and fuel safety shutoff switch could both be impacted by a bumpy ride. Especially when they're 30 years old.
My older one ('83 with feedback carb, so pre-high pressure pumps) was up by the battery and was prone to just wearing out from it's environmental conditions. Corroded contacts were not uncommon.
I'm guessing by '86 they may have moved it and maybe even gone to a different type of relay in a main electric junction box with all the fuses and relays in one place?
A long way of babbling on and skirting the point, that perhaps you lost power to the computer!

Or even the bouncing around has activated the fuel-pump safety shutoff. Or buggered up some internal components of the ECM itself. Old tired capacitors come to mind.
Some of those would kill the fuel pumps, some kill the ignition, and some would do both.
Of course, none would have kept the starter from cranking, but the battery post could have been just one of several faults. And now that you're up and cranking again, you're just lucky enough to be dealing with other hidden gems.

I've had worn out power relays before, so that is always at the back of my mind.

Good luck.

Paul

 

Excellent points about the ECM, relays, etc.

At this point, now that starter operation is back to normal, it's really just basic troubleshooting 101 to check for fuel and spark, and go from there. It's still too early to condemn any specific parts yet.

 

I have checked for spark, no spark from coil. Performed coil primary circuit test, cranking engine with test light on coil negative and light remained on, not flashing as it's supposed to. So next step test pip, ecm etc...