2003 no 4wd
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 905
Likes: 37
2003 no 4wd
Been having a 4wd issue. Had it on jack stands and engaged 4wd and the front doesn’t spin. I replaced the motor, and the Driverside connector. Light comes on when key is on and when I turn the **** in the cab it kicks the light on. This is when the hubs are locked (manual locking warn hubs)
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
test light or multi meter and confirm the motor is being sent a 12v current when you select 4wd,
if no signal work it back to the relays, switch pcm/gem
if voltage bench test the motor for function
if no signal work it back to the relays, switch pcm/gem
if voltage bench test the motor for function
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 905
Likes: 37
ocm is brand new
I’ll try bench test
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
a multimeter would tell you how many volts it is getting.
hearing the motor activate is a decent indicator some voltage is getting there.
it may be engaging the front output and the range indicator is either shot or out of wack. check the connector the best you can assuming you do not have a multimeter
honestly not a whole lot you can do besides fiddle with both connections with a multimeter and a means to check your PIDs with a program like Forscan. the system is a tad more complicated then people realize. you can swap in 4 good relays but those are rarely the problem. usually the wires, connectors or a bad motor.
hearing the motor activate is a decent indicator some voltage is getting there.
it may be engaging the front output and the range indicator is either shot or out of wack. check the connector the best you can assuming you do not have a multimeter
honestly not a whole lot you can do besides fiddle with both connections with a multimeter and a means to check your PIDs with a program like Forscan. the system is a tad more complicated then people realize. you can swap in 4 good relays but those are rarely the problem. usually the wires, connectors or a bad motor.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 905
Likes: 37
a multimeter would tell you how many volts it is getting.
hearing the motor activate is a decent indicator some voltage is getting there.
it may be engaging the front output and the range indicator is either shot or out of wack. check the connector the best you can assuming you do not have a multimeter
honestly not a whole lot you can do besides fiddle with both connections with a multimeter and a means to check your PIDs with a program like Forscan. the system is a tad more complicated then people realize. you can swap in 4 good relays but those are rarely the problem. usually the wires, connectors or a bad motor.
hearing the motor activate is a decent indicator some voltage is getting there.
it may be engaging the front output and the range indicator is either shot or out of wack. check the connector the best you can assuming you do not have a multimeter
honestly not a whole lot you can do besides fiddle with both connections with a multimeter and a means to check your PIDs with a program like Forscan. the system is a tad more complicated then people realize. you can swap in 4 good relays but those are rarely the problem. usually the wires, connectors or a bad motor.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 905
Likes: 37
motor makes noise, dash light on, drive shaft only spins when moving. Doesn’t spin when was on jack stands.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,918
Likes: 178
From: Princeton, BC
The large snap ring on the rear of the hub has probably come off.
https://www.google.com/search?q=warn...gAlA7M3ay5yGM:
I couldn't find a good picture to show what I mean so this is it. The picture on the right side shows two pieces of the hub. Of those two pieces the one on the left has a smaller snap ring on the middle and a larger one on the outside. The one on the outside is the one that may have come off.
https://www.google.com/search?q=warn...gAlA7M3ay5yGM:
I couldn't find a good picture to show what I mean so this is it. The picture on the right side shows two pieces of the hub. Of those two pieces the one on the left has a smaller snap ring on the middle and a larger one on the outside. The one on the outside is the one that may have come off.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
You need a pro scan tool to ID problems with ESOF. If it’s not shifting the t-case - there will usually be DTC’s.
There is a lot more going on than just 12v to the motor....
But, the motor making noise means a lot of that is working! Could be just a bad shift motor. Do not try to operate motor by supplying 12v or with motor off the t-case. Damage to shift motor is likely.
There is a lot more going on than just 12v to the motor....
But, the motor making noise means a lot of that is working! Could be just a bad shift motor. Do not try to operate motor by supplying 12v or with motor off the t-case. Damage to shift motor is likely.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
and I agree with could be a bad motor even if you hear it. there is more the just the motor to go bad. if the range indicator inside the motor ( the thing the other wires plugs into ). is out of wack or bad, then the motor doesnt know if it is actually in the correct position but will illuminate the dash light anyhow.
and yes forscan not only give you the DTCs but you can run the PIDs and see if the system is functioning correctly.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 905
Likes: 37
The large snap ring on the rear of the hub has probably come off.
https://www.google.com/search?q=warn...gAlA7M3ay5yGM:
I couldn't find a good picture to show what I mean so this is it. The picture on the right side shows two pieces of the hub. Of those two pieces the one on the left has a smaller snap ring on the middle and a larger one on the outside. The one on the outside is the one that may have come off.
https://www.google.com/search?q=warn...gAlA7M3ay5yGM:
I couldn't find a good picture to show what I mean so this is it. The picture on the right side shows two pieces of the hub. Of those two pieces the one on the left has a smaller snap ring on the middle and a larger one on the outside. The one on the outside is the one that may have come off.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 905
Likes: 37
You need a pro scan tool to ID problems with ESOF. If it’s not shifting the t-case - there will usually be DTC’s.
There is a lot more going on than just 12v to the motor....
But, the motor making noise means a lot of that is working! Could be just a bad shift motor. Do not try to operate motor by supplying 12v or with motor off the t-case. Damage to shift motor is likely.
There is a lot more going on than just 12v to the motor....
But, the motor making noise means a lot of that is working! Could be just a bad shift motor. Do not try to operate motor by supplying 12v or with motor off the t-case. Damage to shift motor is likely.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 905
Likes: 37
hubs locked or not locked front shaft spins occasionally. But if I lock the hubs yes the shaft spins
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains