I have an '89 F150 w/ 300 CI and C6 trans and a '00 Merc Grand Marquis w/ 4.6 V8. F150 has been abandoned since 2012-ish and the Merc since '14. Neither have been started or driven since. There are multiple ways to get them going but I want to do it properly not a "barn find" way.
What are some suggestions to do so? I have my own thoughts but would like others input.

 

What's the end goal with getting them going? Daily drivers or restoration projects? Why were they abandoned or left to sit idle?

Either way you'll have to get them started and running---typically that means adding fuel and charging/replacing the batteries to get an idea if they'll even run. From there you'll want to change fluids and continue assessing what shape they're in at the moment.

They both would make great daily drivers assuming you don't have to sink a ton of money in either one.

 

'89 is restoration, '00 is daily. Both ran and drove when parked. '89 was parked when I enlisted and couldn't do anything with for a long time. The '00 was parked because the owner bought a new car. It was running and driving perfectly when parked. It has been left out on grass for the last 2 years. The '89 has been in a garage the entire time. Neither have a battery.

 

both are going to need fuel system drained, and purged to get rid of the varnish that is in there.
then change oil and changing coolant would not be a bad idea either.
once running i would do trans fluid change too.

 

I can almost guarantee the Grand Marquis will need a fuel pump. The pumps in those are very prone to sticking after sitting a while. You may get lucky and it work, but I would put the odds on no. BTDT.

 

Given the GM was filled up then parked, I'd bet the pump is dead also. I remember as a kid my dad always said Ford fuel pumps don't last but maybe 5 years and then they're dead. Just like he said the gauge clusters are useful as an umbrella in a hurricane. So I already know both need a in tank pump.
I have no idea what to do with 19 gallons of 4 year old fuel maybe more. I do plan on using the intank pump to empty the GM tank and I've never had luck with siphon pumps.
What tool can I use to prime the oil pump on both before first crank?
MMO or trans fluid in cylinders is fine but the cam, lifters, crank journals and all will be dry. I'd rather not risk damage if not necessary.

 

Pull all the plugs, pull the fuel pump relay, and spin her over to prime everything. No compression, so no real stress on the engine to cause damage.

 

The Grand Marquis pump can be pulled without removing or even taking the tank lose. It's on the top passenger side of the tank, facing forward. There should be a Youtube of it somewhere.

Try and see if the GM pump will work. You should hear it when the switch is turned on. If it works, take the pressure line off the pump, hook a hose to it and pump all the fuel out into 5 gallon cans. That should run the pump enough to free up any gunk in it.

 

Don't forget to check that the brakes are working before you start driving. Brake seals will fail sitting still. If they seem good, you should still bleed them until you have all clean fluid.

 

Been busy this past week with the VA and their incompetence.... The brakes on the GM do work as does the E-Brake and it holds quite well. Fluid flushes were guaranteed to be done.
As for the 150, Last time I moved her, The winch over heated pulling her on the trailer as the rear brakes had locked solid. Had to crawl under and bang the brakes with a sledge but really didn't want to as this truck somehow got a case of black widows....
Don't believe the 150 has service brakes anyway as I can see where the master leaked fluid out into possibly the booster.

 

Attempted to free crank the '89 today. Starter solenoid just chattered like high voltage 60 cycle transformers hum. But I got no rotation. Removed fan and clutch with god sized channelocks and a cresent wrench. Water pump feels.... "goopey" and not low resistance. Not happy already but moving along. Crank has resistance to movement using 14" breaker and just penetrating oil as lube which is to be expected. Battery voltages are good. Those and contacts. Checked many times.
Alright. Bad solenoid. I'll get a cheap guaranteed failure unit from a local retail junk I mean parts house for now. Lets just direct connect the starter motor and get it moving. CONTACT!
Big sparks, spot weld, and very hot 4 ga. cables later, Not even a "oh $41t" click. Didn't even bother crawling under to see what the hell that was all about... This WAS a good starter motor 2 years ago. Ive had starters explode, implode, motor mounted solenoids go out, bendex gears not extract, etc.. But to have a motor suddenly go dead short like that? Moved over to the Merc,
With the plugs still in and all, Before I do all the work for nothing, I tried to break it over aswell. All 8 plugs installed and acc belt, I got 1/4 turn rotation before I'd hit "resistance" or didn't dare continue. I'm thinking/hoping I'm hitting compression stroke between cylinders. Next is to blow out all the dirt, grease, debris, and dirt dobber debris from the plug wells before removing them. I never vacuum the wells as you'll never get everything out and only make more problems later,

 

Looks like I need to go back and read this again, sounds like you're having all the fun. What branch were you in?

 

U.S. Army. Even have Texas DMV issued Army DV plates on my 04 F350.

 

U.S. Army. Even have Texas DMV issued Army DV plates on my 04 F350.

 

Nice, I managed to get USMC tags that ever letter from three angles is significant to me. After I give up on 'em it took me another 18 months to get the VA to line me out socially and I've got a really nice local clinic. That red tape is hard to cut. Stay frosty.