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All, I have a 1997 F250HD with the Dana 50 TTB. I took it to the alignment shop and the bolts I purchased (Moog K100343) are wrong. The caster plate (the large round washer looking thing) is 2" in diameter and teh ones in my truck now are about 1 3/4". Was wondering if anyone has the correct part (ford number maybe) for the correct bolt kit for this truck?
Sounds like you just need some caster/camber bushings. They are a few dollars each...but I would think a quality alignment shop would have in stock. Mine does, but they also can handle Class 8 trucks easily. With fresh parts (including new coils), one stocker was retained and they swapped my RF for the next size down. Then set toe. Truck drives better than new thanks to Bil HDs and progressive rate coil springs.
FWIW, I have no experience on aligning the D50 IFS trucks. Just my TTBs on the F150 and F350. As far as I know, they are simply leaf sprung 4x4 TTBs.
Thanks for the info! I have talked to 2 ford dealers, given them my VIN number and they are telling me that these should just be straight bolts with a nut, not a cam type bolt for adjustment. Seriously disappointed with my Ford parts people not knowing what this should be. I'm more lost now than before. They state alignment changes are done at the ball joints with the alignment bushing. (Sorry, I'm not the best mechanic, more of a wannabe). This just isn't adding up. If anyone has ideas of what to look for I would appreciate it!
So your caster/camber are adjusted at the upper ball joint, right? That is how my 2x4s are done. I am pretty sure the E-series vans were TTB for the loooooooooooooongest time. I am talking into the 6.0 PSD era. Makes me wonder about the parts guys at your joint...unless the front end alignment was changed somehow for those later vans.
Cockauto has a bunch of the alignment 'keys' listed, but without knowing what offsets or gains are needed on your application, it would be difficult for you to order the things. THIS is something your alignment shop should be doing for you and/or have already on the shelf...they are talking a modest inventory of maybe $50 in parts. How far out is the camber and caster? Camber will cause inner wear. Caster out just causes pulling, BUT this depends on the crown of the road. Caster also helps with highway speed stability. Ever wonder why euro cars are so badass at speed? The ones I drive have 10* positive caster on the fronts, 0* toe up to 30', and about 0.25* camber...imagine having camber and toe settings on the rear too like Vettes or one of my BMWs. It will make anyone nuts.
Setting the toe is the easy part, any wino can do that.
D50s droop a pile because of bad leaf spring bushings and that shackle bushing. Have you replaced these too? The I-beam bushings or whatever they are called droop with age, I did mine easy enough on the dually.
IMO, I would find another alignment shop if you are able. They really sound ill equipped for your needs aside from a basic 'set the toe and let it go' type of crap.
Just replaced all ball joints, tie rods and I did replace the spring leaf shackles so it should be really good to go, I am really wondering if I should even have adjustable cam bolts in the axle pivot locations. This is just not adding up. The location of these are right in the middle of the truck, right under the engine where the two axle arm brackets come together. I hope I'm explaining it correctly. I will look for some pics online.
Just replaced all ball joints, tie rods and I did replace the spring leaf shackles so it should be really good to go, I am really wondering if I should even have adjustable cam bolts in the axle pivot locations. This is just not adding up. The location of these are right in the middle of the truck, right under the engine where the two axle arm brackets come together. I hope I'm explaining it correctly. I will look for some pics online.
SDTrucksprings #20852 is what the actual brackets look like.
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