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The info I got from my buddy that works at a shop and had done tons of level kit all with shims is the adjustable ones are not as good of a option as the solid ones. They are very hard to adjust correctly and most alignment places won't mess with them and dont get them right even if they will. The SPC 23269 shims are a good option to start. They are 2.6 deg shims and what they use. If you want adjustability replacement arms are the best option but not cheap. I used the shims that came with my ICON springs which were 2.3 deg. After alignment I am at 2.5 deg and it drives great. If I do anything else it will be PMF adjustable arms.
I bought those exact bushing for my readylift leveling kit because I saw them recommended here. After the level was installed these bushings didn’t offer enough caster according to my mechanic and he had to order different ones. 2017 f350 6.7
The info I got from my buddy that works at a shop and had done tons of level kit all with shims is the adjustable ones are not as good of a option as the solid ones. They are very hard to adjust correctly and most alignment places won't mess with them and dont get them right even if they will. The SPC 23269 shims are a good option to start. They are 2.6 deg shims and what they use. If you want adjustability replacement arms are the best option but not cheap. I used the shims that came with my ICON springs which were 2.3 deg. After alignment I am at 2.5 deg and it drives great. If I do anything else it will be PMF adjustable arms.
So you are saying: DO NOT BUY "ADJUSTABLE" CASTOR SHIMS?
So you are saying: DO NOT BUY "ADJUSTABLE" CASTOR SHIMS?
Just relaying info I got from a trusted source. I'm not really saying one way or the other. If you do buy the adjustable ones I would make sure the alignment shop doing the work is familiar with them and how to adjust them.
Resurrecting this thread instead of starting a new one.
I'll admit I didn't realize I could install these myself. I've always looked at alignments as voodoo that I was happy to let a shop do for $120. I found this thread and did some other learning on these Dana 60 front ends and it's painfully simple. My truck is leveled and I realized caster was still set from the factory and I had all sorts of wander and steering feedback that was uncomfortable (not death wobble). I popped 2 degree shims in last night and took it for a drive and holy hell what a difference! I'm not paying for alignments anymore, I'll do it myself.
Resurrecting this thread instead of starting a new one.
I'll admit I didn't realize I could install these myself. I've always looked at alignments as voodoo that I was happy to let a shop do for $120. I found this thread and did some other learning on these Dana 60 front ends and it's painfully simple. My truck is leveled and I realized caster was still set from the factory and I had all sorts of wander and steering feedback that was uncomfortable (not death wobble). I popped 2 degree shims in last night and took it for a drive and holy hell what a difference! I'm not paying for alignments anymore, I'll do it myself.
There isn't really any VOODOO with alignments, it's the measuring equipment that is required to get it right. If you were to take it to a shop, they could give you the specs it is currently at, if they know their schiznit, they can do the proper alignment too. Knowing what the factory castor is set at, knowing what cam is currently installed, can help determine which came to install to get to the 4* of caster needed to eliminate DW and give good steering feel.
So if they are set to say 2.5* caster, adding a 2.5* cam will give the between 4-5* caster needed. Only way to be 100% sure is to get a base alignment done, otherwise it is guess work. Just make sure what you get is also a 0* camber adjustment, you want a Caster only cam. Also note that the cam installed at the factory will have the slot towards the rear and at least on the moog it is 90* from factory. Make a chisel mark where the slot is on the original before removing it and check where the slot is on the new one compared to the mark so that it is installed correctly. You don't want to install it with the slot matching the original if they are not in the same place or your wheel will be in a really weird position. I just added a set to mine since I have the entire front end torn down. You can really see the difference a 2.5 makes compared to the stock one.
Installation will be a challenge if there is any rust at all, in which case you will need to pull the hub and axle in order to pop the spindle off so that you can pop the cam out to replace it.
Reference pics
Here you can see the reference mark I made On this side the split will be 90* to the outside, the other side is 90* to the inside.
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