Probably. This is a picture taken from an ebay listing with your part#. It's a bottom view. I wrote in the orientation I would install it for max caster change.

 

I actually just went down and looked at them. The fattest end of the taper would be toward the rear of the truck, making the slit on the driver side shim, face the tire and the slit on the passenger side shim, face the engine (that then puts the wider side of the bottom of the shim at the front of the ball joint stud). That contradicts what Moog said in an email to me, they are talking about the index (^) mark here: "On the driver side the index mark would face out pointing at the tire. The passenger side the index mark would face in pointing at the engine." If I were to orient them that way, it would affect camber as well, so that can not be right.

 

Yep, that is what I am thinking. That puts the slit in the shim to toward the tire on the driver side and the slit toward the engine on the passenger side. Thank you!

 

No worries, we are all in this together! You need SPC 23268 and 23269

https://www.spcalignment.com/compone...AFrom&to=USATo

https://www.spcalignment.com/compone...AFrom&to=USATo

 

Would it also position it in the way that acdii's photo shows?

 

Here's one place. I'm sure there are others.
Super Duty 2 Degree Caster Shims

 

I would add, since I've seen the slit orientation with regards to the thick/thin side different on different shims, I would be sure to put the thin side toward the rear regardless of where the slit was.
The entire purpose is to rotate the axle clockwise (looking at the driver's side hub) to rotate the pinion down to correct the caster angle.

 

Thanks for the help yall

 

It appears that way, yes

 

I'll cut to the chase, I called Carli Suspension on a unrelated topic, I spoke with I think Jason, very helpful, extremely knowledgeable.
Anyway, we got to talking about their 3" Commuter System, mostly components, and how I plan to build the lift in stages. (Not budgetary, more
add as I see fit and go). We both agreed on my product choice, the correct steps in the order I planed, and we both agreed it was a good plan.
Now this is where it got interesting. As we know, once you raise the front, it reduces the caster, hence adding the 2 degree shims helps restore
the proper angle to about 4-5 degrees. Problem is, it seems Ford for 2024 changed something (hub? seal? knuckle? etc?) on the 2024 which
when you add the 2 degree shim, moves a metal seal/plate closer to the knuckle and causes them to grind together. They found this out because
they had a 2024 in for R&D. He said to only use the 1 degree in a 2024. Not sure when during the 2024 production it changed. They are working on a solution,
and basically it's a set of drop blocks to drop the rear of the radius arms to account for the 2 degree shim, and he explained that they are in testing and
it will be a few months before they are available. So as of now the only option is to try the lift without the shims, see if it pulls or returns to center, add the
1 degree caster shim to help if it doesn't, or purchase their adjustable radius arms (direction I plan on going) and have the alignment shop dial in the correct caster.
He said all the current kits come with the 2 degree shim, so don't use them. He also said if I buy a kit from CJC Off Road to call them and ask them to remove
the 2 degree shim and either credit me or supply the 1 degree shim.
Hope this saved anyone from un-needed aggravation.
Good luck!

 

Thats interesting and a bit of a PIA. My caster bushings are being delivered today lol wonder why they changed things? I’m sure it’s budget related. Kinda like the locked passenger side hub.

 

I would say try the 2 degree at your own discretion, pay extra attention to the metal "seal/plate", see if you have any rubbing or grinding.

 

so 23s are okay. It started with some change on the 24s?

 

Thanks what I was told by Carli Suspensions.
They have their kits listed as fitting 23-24, but are now rethinking the 24's. The 2 degree (according to them) will still work in the 23's.
They didn't realize it until they were doing some R&D work on a 24, installed the 2 degree shim, then got the rubbing/grinding.

 

ford should of put adjustment cams in the arm like ram does.
probly whats happening is theres a new type of metail sheild at the tube opening. when you do the 2* shim it offsets the axle shaft so much that the sheild grinds into the tube