I just did my doors the vent windows are the last to remove but first to put back when doing a door , if you have door window pads out , or whatever you call them , leave them off,,removing the roll up glass may help , then when removing the vent glass frame if you watch how it comes up you will twist it so the bottom were that lower bolt you removed , the flange at the right angle will come out and not scratch the paint , same way it goes back in , there's a sweet spot to find when removing an installing to get that lower area freed up , takes a little twisting but I had no problem when I did mine as I replaced the glass and frame around the glass , few pictures on my build page but unsure if I took enough to help you any

 

Here's a youtubes video on it, look about the halfway point.

 

I was impressed and happy with Macsautoparts complete door kit for seals and weatherstripping, although that was 5 or 6 years ago now.

I'm glad to FINALLY see a youtube video that shows the main glass install. I take the speaker out and leave the window crank in but other than that it is pretty much the same, just finessing certain parts of it. AND while everything is out ALWAYS check that the support tab(under the vent window) is still spot welded together as it holds the outer door skin to the inner door skin for a tight seal against the glass, keeping the weather out of the door!

 

Well, just in from the garage with the parts the auto body shop ordered. Anyone see an issue here? Placing an order with one of the referenced-above companies. Not throwing Summit under the bus; could be that the person made a mistake during the order or that the wrong parts were shipped. Oh, the joys of old truck ownership; patience is mandatory...


New vs. old

This ain't right...

 

The ones from precision rubber are very nice. check them out.

https://www.prp.com/product/detail/1...F-150&type=All


https://www.prp.com/product/detail/1...F-150&type=All

 

Those are the ones I went with, as much as I appreciated the other options (e.g. Bronco Graveyard, etc.).

 

I ordered mine from Ebay , they were also from Precision parts. Fit mostly fine (1979 F350 2WD)

 

Did my f100 with precision parts bought from BG. Lessons learned. Make sure to do the vents first. The channel felts need to come out before the vent window frame can be removed. If you attempt to remove the vent frame with the felts in, you will destroy the felts. Precision has videos on the technique used to remove the vent frame.

The vent seal is tricky. You can mash and squeeze it into the channel, step back and convince yourself it looks great, and it not seal at all when driving. Once you have it the seal in the frame, insert the glass and mock up the seal by opening and closing the glass to be sure it is fitting properly into the recess in the seal. The frame is semi adjustable and can be disassembled, but be careful because it can also be tricky to get it back in the correct shape. Once happy with the seal it will need to be riveted. I usede a modified REX rivet press to do mine the first time and it worked well. I decided to do them again with ornamental leather antiqued rivets. Gonna do them again with Chicago screws to see if I like them better. Make sure to seat the rubber tabs that extend out underneath the vent window lock. These will butt up against the window channel on the sides and the felt channel on the end. If its not seated you will get a leak and a whistle at speed.

Window channel felts look cheap, but they are pretty close to spec. Advice here is to remove the old ones like you want to keep them. This will give you an idea of what to expect on install. Do not alter the shape of the steel spring tabs, they will fit and grab fine. One shot at install because any modification will bend it and it will leak water and air at speed. I used 3M black on the back of my mine to help seal.

If you don't get a tight seal on any one of these seals, you will have leaks. I installed and removed mine multiple times to get it right in the f100 and now I am content with the seal and the appearance. Also if you're doors themselves are not sealed underneath the door panel, you will have leaks. Draft paper and deadening pad are a big help here. I covered my speaker holes as well. Once you seal up the doors and windows you will really notice any other holes that may be open to the outside.
add

https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets

 

Just in from the garage and thought I'd post how I did it, which is a little different from the videos I watched. First I remove the two bolts holding the rear track; the other one is up and out of frame.


Then I removed the three bolts holding in the window crank assembly.


Doing these two steps allowed me to physically push the glass down and out of the way. No worries about room or hurting the window now.


Then I put tape on the outside / new paint job, although if you're careful this step may not be required. There is a LOT of room once you take the glass out of the picture.


The two pads snapped right it. The only "funny" thing was that one of the pieces had a different clip pattern, which I discovered by simply trying it on the other (driver's door). Thought for a minute that we had a quality control problem.

Here is the final project complete. Took about 15- 20 minutes per side this way.


Hope this helps someone worried about doing it themselves. Thanks all for the supportive posts.
- IH

 

how did you like the precision pieces you got?

Thanks for the writeup.

 

Yes, the Precision pieces were good. Smaller clips than what I took out, but they went in with a "snap" sound to let me know they were installed correctly. Nice tight fit with the glass - which reminds me... if you drop your glass like I did, make sure it stays lined up in between the two pads and doesn't fall outside of the outer pad. You need to be able to roll up the window when they're installed
- IH

 

I'm interested in you're door panels. Looks like it is an aftermarket that has been designed to be attached with screws. I squared the holes on mine with a punch.. Got a set of square nylon inserts, modified the size and pressed them into the door. Drilled and countersunk the holes in the panel and used #10 stainless hardware. This is a far more secure method and allows for quick removal. I like the speaker grill on that those better than stock.

 

These panels just came with the truck and I don't know the brand / source. I changed out to round head bolts to lower the profile and stay away from clips.