I have a 2014 F250 superduty with the 6.7L TD engine. I bought the truck in 2015 with less than 20k miles and have less than 50k miles to date. I have had recurring and unresolved problems with the dash electronics, specifically the "check engine" light, and most recently with the "advance track" light. Problems started at 28k miles. I have spent over $2k so far at various dealerships and diesel specialty mechanics with no long-term fix. Parts that have been replaced are: DEF level sender/heater, DEF pump and software updates. Problems found/codes that have been cleared are vehicle non-communication with PCM, various and multiple DTCs, NOX, TCM, corroded connectors. Most recent code was P20-DB - reductant heater circuit open. Heater was tested w/no issues.

On Friday, Jan 3, I started the engine to drive home and the entire dash system (lights & gauges) went haywire- they began to turn on/off and/or flash after "advance track" light came on and stayed on. Doesn't seen to affect drivability, but I don't want to get stranded, especially if towing. Diesel mechanic stated that problem might be the "console," but didn't elaborate on what the "console" was, but said it would be $1k to replace. I'm guessing that it is the main electronic cluster for the dash instruments & lights.

Although I knew this truck would be more expensive to own/operate, I can't keep spending $300 each time a dash light comes on. My local dealerships are absolutely no help, and the one I originally took the truck to for the first engine light issue when the truck was under warranty refused to continue diagnosing for free once the truck was out of warranty even though the problem has never really been fixed.

Has anyone else had these kind of issues, and if so, what was the fix? If $1k will fix the issue, I'm in, but I'm hesitant to spend the money on speculation.

Thank you.

 

If ALL the dash lights and gauges are going haywire at the same time, up above the parking brake pedal is a large electrical connector. Although it may still look connected, the plug likes to work its way loose. I ended up zip tying mine since I use my parking brake regularly.

 

Thanks for the info. This seems to have fixed the problem of the dash going haywire, although the "check engine" light is still coming on. Any ideas?

 

Put a scan tool on it and see what codes it's throwing. Clear them, and see if the Check Engine Light comes back on when you drive it. If the codes (or different ones) come back, then you've got some other issue that doesn't have anything to do with the big connector next the Parking Brake.