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We've got working brakes, new floor shifter. Trying to get the motor to start up.... Was running when we bought it, we drained the fuel, installed a new fuel pump and inline filter... gas coming out of the tank looks good. When we try and get it started, it will intermittently crank.
We suspected the starter, swapped it out, same things, intermittently cranks.
Bought new solenoid and battery cables, going to try and clean up the cable and where they ground, same with the mounting surface between the starter and engine block.. .try and eliminate any poor grounding issues. Also going to put the battery on a trickle and make sure it is completely charged.
While cranking, we know that the carb needs to be attended to, fuel was leaking out somewhere, so we know that it at least gets to the carb. We purchased a Tomco carb from O'Reilly, which I believe is the Motorcraft 1101 design.... However reading about the Carter YF, I'm wondering if anyone has thoughts on that. I'm looking for ease of operation and use at this point, don't care about fuel economy or power, that can all be addressed later... just want the truck to drive under its own power out of the garage.
I'd love to hear what people think about these two. I'm also going to be looking for help hooking up these carbs. I believe the current carb is the same as the Tomco, but I can't seem to figure out how the choke is hooked up, if at all.
If your engine is still original you might want to check if it has the load-o-matic distributor. If so, they need to be paired with a carburetor that is set up to work with the load-o-matic distributor. Or you could replace the distributor with a non load-o-matic if yours is.
Tomco is likely just a rebuilder of carburetors. The one review of a 1.0 rating and had issues with two carbs would make me want to just rebuild my own carb rather than try one rebuilt by someone else. The 1100 is very simple to work on.
It looks like there are a lot of bullet connectors between the distributor and DS module. I would re-wire that to make sure all the connections are good, and at the same time minimize the number of connectors. All of the ignition wiring is suspect from your picture. Use a multi meter to start checking the circuit starting at the key. Measure voltage at the coil, and starter solenoid. Get a wiring diagram for the DS II and verify the retard on start circuit is hooked up correctly. You can tee into the brown wire on the starter solenoid for the retard on start function.
I like your ideas of having a fully charged battery and the new battery cables and solenoid. Good grounds and connections are critical. By intermittent I'd assume you are getting a good crank at times and then other times it just clicks or what does it do when it fails? If you get a click that is usually coming from the solenoid as the slug inside moves.
The ground for the starter comes from the engine block contact and bolts. Probably not an issue but it never hurts to also check the block to starter connection with an ohm setting on a multi-meter or a continuity setting.
The ground for the solenoid comes from the firewall connection where it screws to the sheet metal. That can be checked for continuity, too.
You can jump start with a remote starter by connecting 12V to the S terminal on the solenoid. Make sure the key is in the Run position and that transmission is in park or neutral if manual and parking brake set. I stand to the side rather than in front of a vehicle when remote starting it, too, just to be safe. But, by doing that you eliminate the ignition switch as far as cranking goes and you can listen to what is going on since you are not sitting in the cab this way.
With the duraspark you are not restricted to a particular carburetor which is nice.
@66v8baby : Yes, there are a lot of splices and poor connections. We have planned on cleaning up all of that during the rebuild, Our plan has been to get the truck to move under its own power and establish the fact that all three gears are operable, then take it down to the frame and start painting and rebuilding. I'll get to checking it in the meantime.
@TA455HO Your description is correct... good crank at times, then other times, nothing... one of the times, the wire from the +terminal to the solenoid began to melt/smoke.... Continuity check within the solenoid yields 3.4-4 ohms. We are planning on removing the starter and a bunch of other connections tomorrow and hitting them with a wire brush/steel wool to clean them up and make sure that we have good connections.
I'll keep you guys filled in once we've done all of that.
Back to the question about the carb though, anyone have thoughts about the Carter YF style carb with automatic choke that is included in the Ebay link?
One thing I have run into over the years is a problem within the starter relay. Often when folks remove/replace the relay or are working on electric connections the inner nuts on the lugs for battery and starter cable connections are loosened and the stud itself turns. This causes a twisting of the contacts within the unit which can cause problems. I always hold the inner nuts with a slim line wrench when loosening or tightening the outer nuts. Just a thought.
Is there a shim for this? Do I need a bracket to hold the front end?
The plate between the engine and trans bell is the only shim. If there is supposed to be a bracket I have seen enough missing that I don't see that being your problem. My money is on a pos reman starter. Swap it out under warranty.
