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I recently “inherited” my wife’s grandfathers 1981 F-100. Not sure where to start but it has been in garage since it last ran about 15 years ago. I want to get it back in running condition and want some pointers on how to get it rolling again. Nothing was wrong with it, just got parked and never driven. I have NO experience in vehicles but somewhat handy and not afraid to jump in and try. Look forward to being a Ford truck owner for the first time.
Have you checked to see if the motor will turn over yet?
Take off the accessory belt system, pull out the sparkplugs, find the appropriate size socket to fit the crank pulley nut, and try turning clockwise with a large breaker bar.
To me that's the very first step in an engine that has been sitting for a long time.
No, all I have done is pop the hood. But I like your advice and will probably do that first. Any reason for removing plugs? Should removing battery eliminate fire? I will be replacing plugs anyway but just curious. Any advice on a manual to assist me (service manual,etc?)
Before you crank it over, put a little oil in the cylinders. Just pull the spark plugs and get your wife's turkey baster and squirt a little in. (Don't tell her when she asks where it's at. And DON'T put it back in the drawer.) Crank it over by hand a few times if you can. Socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley at the front. You're just making sure it turns over at this point.
Go ahead and drain the gas tank. Put a couple gallons of fresh gas in.
If it turned over by hand, go ahead and put fresh oil in (fill the oil filter before you put it on). Pull the fuel line off the carb and drop it in a bucket. You want to make sure it's pumping fuel. Then get in the truck and crank it over for 15-20 seconds with the starter. That helps get oil back into all the places it's run off of over the years. It also ensures you have a working fuel pump. If you do this with the plugs out and fuel line disconnected, it helps the engine turn over a little easier/faster. Plus you aren't sucking in a bunch of old, crappy gas into the cylinders.
It may be due for a standard tune-up. Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, maybe plug wires. I would do the oil in cylinders and make sure it turns over and everything before you invest all that, though.
The carb may very well need rebuilt. The kits from Autozone are usually around $20. If you do that, get a new filter while you're there. But it should be able to start with what you have.
I guess it all really just depends how far you're wanting to go. When I got mine, I went ahead and spent $20 on a new mechanical fuel pump. If the diaphragm bursts, it can leak gas in the engine, and gas doesn't lubricate very well. Mine also wasn't running, so I was just replacing things left and right without diagnosing. Bad approach. If you have any questions about diagnosing something, post here or in an engine specific forum (you didn't specify the engine here).
Have you checked to see if the motor will turn over yet?
Take off the accessory belt system, pull out the sparkplugs, find the appropriate size socket to fit the crank pulley nut, and try turning clockwise with a large breaker bar.
To me that's the very first step in an engine that has been sitting for a long time.
I see a couple beat me to the punch while I was writing my short essay. Hope that answers your question on why to do it with the plugs out. It helps the engine crank over easy and fast. Removing the accessory belts eliminates a rusted, locked up water pump, etc as the reason the engine doesn't turn over.
I've had my AC compressor lock up and make me think the engine was shot on my 2001 Mustang GT. At first I though it was starter, but the belt was locked up so tight, it locked the tires if I tried to roll start it. Scared me for a hot minute! Then I took the belt off and it fired right up.
Obviously, don't run the truck with WP belt removed for long (if at all).
I would drain the fuel tank if it has fuel in it. It's easier to pull a fuel line and run off a temporary fuel can so you don't run the risk of running contaminated fuel through it. I'd drain the oil and refill. Pull the distributor and use a drill to turn the oil pump to to get some oil in everything. But that may be more involved than you want to get. It rubs a nerve for me when they get turned over dry. So maybe pull the plugs, put a tablespoon of oil in each plug hole. That'd be the bare minimum I'd do. So, if you're changing plugs anyway, I'd do that, put plugs on, drop the fuel line into a can on the fender, put a tablespoon of fuel down the carb and try to fire it up. So long as a visual inspection doesn't show any chewed wiring or anything.
No, all I have done is pop the hood. But I like your advice and will probably do that first. Any reason for removing plugs? Should removing battery eliminate fire? I will be replacing plugs anyway but just curious. Any advice on a manual to assist me (service manual,etc?)
Sorry for the multi-posts. If you have the key off, you shouldn't have to worry while turning over by hand. But especially if you have the plugs out, for the reasons given above.
A Chilton or Haynes manual would be nice. Various people will opine about which is better. I have a Haynes.
The fuel system is going to be your biggest hurdle at first. Then the brakes. Then the cooling system. The rotten fuel in the tank and in the carb is going to fight you trying to get it to run. The brakes and the cooling system will rear their heads later as you start driving it. Have patience, it will be a good year of driving it and tinkering with it till you can really rely on it.
Some good information has been given so far.
First is to see if the motor will turn over be hand.
If it moves a little then I would pull all the plugs and add oil to each cly.
Once you have oil in the cly. then turn the motor over by hand a few turns to make sure it turns freely.
Drain the gas tank(s), may want to remove and wash them out and check for rust.
For now you can run the motor off a small gas can set up on the fender and a long hose to the pump.
If the oil looks good and is full I would try and start it with that oil for testing.
With plugs out, coil wire to ground and after motor has been turned over by hand I would try and crank the motor over with the key.
When doing this have the small gas can hooked up so when cranking it will pump gas to the carb but not start so you can get oil PSI up and oil thru the motor.
Once you have gas to carb and hopefully oil thru motor, install plugs and see if the motor will run.
You don't have to have water in it for this "test fire up". You are lessening for bad noises and any gas leaks from dried out carb gaskets.
If that is all good put water in the cooling system and run it longer to get some temp in the motor.
I would think by this time you would know if the brake pedal goes to the floor or not. If not maybe put it in gear (auto) to see if it will move or try the clutch if not rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate, yes this can happen from sitting.
You may be tempted to take it for a quick spin but I would go thru the brakes before I did that.
Up to this point you have a lot to keep you busy but if you have questions just ask.
Oh you want to look for a Factory Service Manual as it will have what you need to work on the truck.
Dave ----
Before you crank it over, put a little oil in the cylinders. Just pull the spark plugs and get your wife's turkey baster and squirt a little in.
(Snip)
Then get in the truck and crank it over for 15-20 seconds with the starter.
(Snip)
if you do this with the plugs out and fuel line disconnected, it helps the engine turn over a little easier/faster.
Re: The oil squirted into the cylinders - Before you engage the starter with the spark plugs removed, lay some rags over the holes. Otherwise, that oil will spray EVERYWHERE. I do not care to discuss how I learned this.
Also, I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but a 15 year old battery is toast. Don't bother doing anything with it except removing it.
Re: The oil squirted into the cylinders - Before you engage the starter with the spark plugs removed, lay some rags over the holes. Otherwise, that oil will spray EVERYWHERE. I do not care to discuss how I learned this.
Also, I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but a 15 year old battery is toast. Don't bother doing anything with it except removing it.
Forgot to mention battery, but figure that was a given lol.
I also forgot the rags...my best friend's mom was NOT happy when we sprayed oil from his 240Z on the floor...and the white garage walls, and the dresser sitting near the car, and the tools hung on the walls, and....good suggestion.
Although she was even more mad the time I drained the years old coolant out of the same 240Z and slung it out into her nice yard...turns out it kills grass
After her grandfather died, her father and uncle just kept truck. They mainly drove their dogs around town. Eventually dogs died, life went on and no one had a reason to drive except moving furniture once in a blue moon. Nothing was wrong with truck when it was last used.
After her grandfather died, her father and uncle just kept truck. They mainly drove their dogs around town. Eventually dogs died, life went on and no one had a reason to drive except moving furniture once in a blue moon. Nothing was wrong with truck when it was last used.
Also known as the 255 cu in v8. Small version of the 302.
