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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Hidden switch next to push start?

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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 08:05 AM
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Hidden switch next to push start?


Found this toggle switch, was this a factory switch?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 08:17 AM
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Dome light switch????
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 08:22 AM
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Switch is on/off for dash lights.

hope this helps,

tom
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 11:12 AM
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Second what Jersey_Devil said. Its the instrument cluster light switch. I've wondered why you would turn your instrument lights off but have the park/head lights on still. Its cool to see how things have evolved since 1950 in the truck world.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 11:53 AM
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Yep, instrument cluster light switch. Strangely, it's designed to work only when the head/park lights are on.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 02:14 PM
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Wasn't the headlight switch a rheostat?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by abe
Wasn't the headlight switch a rheostat?
1951and newer had the rheostat Abe
This is 50 and older
There I fixed it thanks
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 03:32 PM
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Truck in question is a 50. Rheostat on head light switch started with 51’s.

tom
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasLemonaide
Second what Jersey_Devil said. Its the instrument cluster light switch. I've wondered why you would turn your instrument lights off but have the park/head lights on still. Its cool to see how things have evolved since 1950 in the truck world.
I used my 48 F1 as a daily driver for 10 years. If you drive one of these at night you can't dim the dash lights - the switch turns them off for better visibility. That's where the idea for the rheostat came from.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 04:47 PM
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Yep, you guys are right it’s for the instrument cluster lights or gauge lights.

since we’re on the topic, I plan on upgrading to 12V part of the conversion is the gauges and gauge lights. If I interrupt the switch with s voltage regulator should this take care of the entire circuit or are the gauges and lights a separate circuit?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 05:12 PM
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The gauges and lights are on separate circuits.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott M-47
Yep, you guys are right it’s for the instrument cluster lights or gauge lights.

since we’re on the topic, I plan on upgrading to 12V part of the conversion is the gauges and gauge lights. If I interrupt the switch with s voltage regulator should this take care of the entire circuit or are the gauges and lights a separate circuit?
If you're going to go 12 volts you'll have to change all the other bulbs as well, dash lights included. Instruments will need a voltage reducer. There are other things that must be addressed when upgrading too, other than the obvious.




 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 06:38 PM
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It is the year 1949.
You are out on your farm, or between your farm and the City, at night.
No moon, no City lights, no freeway lights. Maybe the REA has not even gotten to your county yet.
No traffic behind or in front. Very very dark.
Even with that dim 6 volt bulb, dash is too bright. Needs to be turned off.
Try recreating the above sometime.
Also don't forget --- 6 volts using generator for charging.
Might seem like a small amount for 1 bulb, but using a charger that doesn't charge at idle or even very much at all at low rpm, and every watt (amp) begins to count when in the middle of nowhere, going slow on a dark narrow road, high beams on, all with battery about to give up the ghost.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by electricmaniac
It is the year 1949.
You are out on your farm, or between your farm and the City, at night.
No moon, no City lights, no freeway lights. Maybe the REA has not even gotten to your county yet.
No traffic behind or in front. Very very dark.
Even with that dim 6 volt bulb, dash is too bright. Needs to be turned off.
Try recreating the above sometime.
Also don't forget --- 6 volts using generator for charging.
Might seem like a small amount for 1 bulb, but using a charger that doesn't charge at idle or even very much at all at low rpm, and every watt (amp) begins to count when in the middle of nowhere, going slow on a dark narrow road, high beams on, all with battery about to give up the ghost.
And don't forget the heater fan blowing to keep fog off your windshield .

That's why I always kept an old towel or rag handy in my truck when it was my daily driver.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2019 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by abe
And don't forget the heater fan blowing to keep fog off your windshield .

That's why I always kept an old towel or rag handy in my truck when it was my daily driver.
Just rub a pack of Bull Durham over the glass. Works wonders (don't smoke it though).
 
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