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Jack are you fishing for a group buy of these? They would work on any engine so maybe we could recruit buyers from the other sections?!?
Surely there’s a US product that is equivalent?
I have been following this post. It has me thinking I might look into putting one in my truck.
Might be a little work but would be worth it 100 fold if something does go bad.
I’ve been looking within automation suppliers. There’s a few in the US that carry capacitance sensors. We used them during rotor measurements, but those from MTI were expensive as hell.
Something like this might work, if the temp tolerance is OK. The data sheet says it’s not.
I’ve bought tools myself and in group buys from Germany and England. In my woodworking and building side I use Mafell tools. There’s only one importer in the US and it’s rape and pillage.
It’s really not a lot of work or added equipment if the unit works in the 12vdc range. The side of the reservoir if you get hyper would take some fitting, and as Hartwig has noted, sensitive to slosh. The bottom of the reservoir as in his trials, not so much.
I’ve driven class 8 trucks that come with them, some vehicles have them, and I know some boat manufacturers have kits. I’m surprised no one in the Powerstroke community, including me, has never thought of this modification. It may have saved Pete a set of heads when his Wye broke.
What I’ve seen are either capacitance probes or a simple float. I can’t make out or have seen what Hartwig has installed. If you hunt YouTube you can find some videos of installs. Probably on some other forums too.
This is like a Duh moment.
Not necessary. I was, and still am of course, running a Coolant Pressure gauge for monitoring. The sudden drop in pressure to 0 was the dead give away I had developed a leak, which in turn was a cracked plastic wye coolant pipe like you mentioned.
Do you think you were able to catch it in progress? You can have a slow leak that may outrun a pressure drop. Either the pressure may compensate, or if enough coolant has been lost, boiling in the heads may keep the pressure up.
i don’t have an answer, I’m just going throw the process, the what ifs.
Do you think you were able to catch it in progress? You can have a slow leak that may outrun a pressure drop. Either the pressure may compensate, or if enough coolant has been lost, boiling in the heads may keep the pressure up.
i don’t have an answer, I’m just going throw the process, the what ifs.
I can tell you the wye was only cracked with a small leak. When I saw it dumping pressure I immediately stopped and could not tell where the leak was really coming from so I topped it off with water from the camper's holding tank and got to the rest stop. Once there is when pulling on things looking for leaks, the wye broke in hand, disclosing the now BIG leak. Without that gauge showing me the pressure dumping I probably would of kept going until an overheat with the "Check Gauges" message & ding occurred.
I have enough confidence in the pressure system gauge to stick with it. Plus it is an indicator as you know if it ever builds high pressures quickly, indicating a possible head gasket failure.
But that's just me and I'm sometimes that "That's Good Enough" type of a guy. 🤫
Pete, that's a good description of experience and one I can relate to, and would agree with. I think it puts having a pressure gauge onlynot in the "good enough" category, but in a superior place. Some who are not situationally or maintenance aware, the low coolant level alarm may be the better choice. Those who want all the bells and whistles just in case can still do both. I'm going to stay in the pressure gauge only camp.
Not necessary. I was, and still am of course, running a Coolant Pressure gauge for monitoring. The sudden drop in pressure to 0 was the dead give away I had developed a leak, which in turn was a cracked plastic wye coolant pipe like you mentioned.
Hi 87crewdually, that's what I thought at first too, but since EGR-delete I have only very little pressure in the system. So for me, this is no longer an alarm signal. On long distances you don't look at your pressure display all the time. I think the advantage of the system as I installed it is, it already gives an alarm when the engine has still enough coolant to work.
Thanks SmackDaddy for inserting the links. Here is the alarmlight. It beeps and flashes. I had chosen the red / 16mm / 12V version.
If you need help with the order in Germany, I can send you the parts of course.
the degas bottle is made of polyethylene, the sesnor holder is made of a similarly smooth material. To prevent the sensor from slipping easily, I put narrow strips of 3M double sided tape (right word?) on it. The cord around the degas bottle is only for safety. If it should fall off, the alarm would sound, nothing more would happen. the sensor signal switches a standard relay and not directly the alarm lamp. Here again pictures of the mounting
Hartwig, if that’s the 3M tape that I have too, you don’t have to worry about it falling off. But I’ve not used in at high temp, just up to around 120°F. You could use double sided Velcro as the secondary strap if the spring appearance is degraded due to rust, or a Bungee cord.
You buying and shipping is a great offer, but as long as USA people can buy them through the company direct they should. If there were any defective ones, it would be bothersome to you. And secondarily, you have to pay VAT, we don’t.
A good point about it being a good secondary warning, as from Visurveyor.
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