Dies on shift into drive (automatic trans)
You'd still have a dissimilar-metal issue, where the brass goes into either cast-iron or aluminum, but maybe a little paint could stave off the inevitable. Same thing as steel vs cast-iron most likely, but many of the replacements are chrome which I think acts to reduce the reactions.
Then again, chrome steel has it's own issues with corrosion eventually!
Paul
Went with the dual vacuum distributor and will port the inner most vacuum to the intake manifold as there is an additional outlet under the larger transmission vacuum connection. My understanding is that the secondary vacuum will retard the timing on a deceleration and prevent the 'popping' sound and do other good things like probably run cleaner. Will also run the points initially and assure connections are proper before installing the Pertronics electronic unit. Points will be destined for a baggy in the glove box just in case.
Good thing about these minor issues is that now i am much more familiar with the top of my engine and its component parts. Looking forward to seeing how the carb and ignition increase driveability; gotta be a big improvement!
My understanding is that the secondary vacuum will retard the timing on a deceleration and prevent the 'popping' sound and do other good things like probably run cleaner.
In it's simplest form, there was a 3-port controller (a chamber with spring and diaphragm I believe) mounted to the back of the intake and three vacuum lines from various points on the engine met, then went up to the vacuum advance can.
My recommendation is just to forget about using both ports and simply connect the front hose fitting to the vacuum source of your choice. Whether ported or full manifold vacuum, and leave the rear/side one open to atmosphere.
Personally all of my Ford engines have run better with ported vacuum, but plenty of precedent to use full vacuum too, as long as you turn for each one differently. Lots of Ford owners use full vacuum, but most that I know end up using ported.
Personal choice once you get it going, but it might be easier at first (while you're setting stuff up and getting used to it) to use the ported fitting on the carburetor for your vacuum advance. Others might have different advice, so make your choice, but listen to what everyone has to say anyway.
Paul
Not sure about timed switches and triple vacuums, so I am just going on what research from the shop manuals indicated.
Actually more focused on replacing the distributor and changing the electronic ignition to Pertronix than anything else right now. Also changing fluids and belts and hoses and to see if the problem really was the ignition, which I strongly suspect now.
Appreciate you insight about the double vacuum units and will see how this one plays out when we are rolling again!
Thanks Paul.
Starts and runs like it should. Set the timing at 6 degrees BTDC subject to more driving under various conditions.Plenty of good power and no more stalling out when put into gear. Thinking that it was mostly the frozen distributor, but could also have been the carby. Using the dual vacuum lines presently until able to take for a real road test on the highway.
Next up will be my Messy C-4 trans. !
Thanks to all for the helpful and insightful replies.









