i run synthetic in every thing. mobil 1 10w-30. where i use to work w got oil samples. i started mobil 1 the 1st oil change. ruffly 2,500 miles. and w/ the mobil 1 i go every 5,000-10,000 (depending what filter i used.) when i did the oil sample. it always came back that it was taking extra long to break in. for a new motor. but it was always cleen.


1999 mazda b3000 3.0L v6 w/ automatic trany.

 

Hey, how does this synlube work? I dont know if i would go 90-95k without changing my oil. or 2-3 years without changing a filter. I agree with Rocklege's quote. that oil is a cleaner and a lubricant. when i change my oil and see that its a brown color or a black, i know thats all the junk that was in my engine and i'm removing it. thats why i cant see ho synlube works, i think that all the junk would just build up. but i dunno

 

The black color of oil is a function of a couple of things. First the dark color comes from the heat activation of the additive package and this includes the detergent property. Most people think the oil is cleaning the engine in the way a detergent is used to clean clothes but a detergent in an oil is really a chemical which bonds to dirt particles and sludge making the combination large enough to be trapped in the oil filter. Most conventional oils will be very dark after just a few hundred miles even if the oil has been changed at 3K intervals due to heat-activation alone. If the engine has built-up sludge deposits, these will be reduced both by dilution of the sludge with the new oil and by the additive package though at the cost of a much earlier depletion of the additive package. Numerous additives are available on the aftermarket, effective and not, dedicated to enhancing or restoring the additive package of the oil. About 15-20% of the volume in a quart of dino oil is dedicated to the additive package.

By the way, the antiwear additives of conventional oil don't become fully effective until the oil has almost reached normal operating temperature. This is another reason I believe that oils like 5W20 are being promoted since the oil doesn't offer its full protection for several minutes after a cold start. The oil has to start circulating through the engine as soon as possible since the residual film of oil on the parts is not as protective as is desireable.

SynLube is different in that the formula is composed of 5 synthetic basestocks in combination with 3 solid lubricants which are essentially inert and therefore don't react to engine blow-by which is the main reason conventional oil has to be replaced. The reactivity of dino oil is increased substantially in hotter-running emissions-controlled engines. SynLube is designed to operate in engines running as high as 300 degrees.

In combination with a very high quality additive package, the 3K engine hour/150K mile service interval is actually extremely conservative. In fact, SynLube states that tests of the oil after the end of its service life indicated that performance of the oil had only decreased a few percent.

SynLube is equipped with a very high quality additive package but the most important thing to remember about the package though is that at the price point that SynLube sells, the additives are the best available. This is important because by volume, they are a lower percentage of the total lubricant volume. So? Well the additives in the oil have no lubricating function in themselves. Consequently, a higher percentage of the oil is dedicated to keeping metal parts separated and less is dedicated to protecting the oil.

In contrast to conventional oil, synthetic basestock molecules have a complimentary electrical charge which keeps a protective film of oil in place far more effectively than convention oils which don't have this property. This property is not unique to SynLube but SynLube enhances this property with solid lubricant colloids which effectively further reduce friction at start-up. In fact, dry lubrication conditions are almost if not completely avoided and also the antiwear properties of SynLube are effective immediately.

A physical manifestation of this is that a higher percentage of the oil remains on engine parts rather than draining into the oil pan. A couple hours after arriving home, I checked the oil level. After 2 further days, the oil level reading had increased by several ounces. With normal oils, there would have been no difference in the reading.

In contrast to conventional dino lubes with a viscosity index of 75-100, SynLube has an index of 200 making the oil far more resistant to temperature extremes. Consequently, whether one lives in Alaska or Florida, the oil provides full protection, winter or summer.

In my current vehicle, new in January, I have about 9K miles on SynLube. During that time, I have consistantly had better mileage from the car than the EPA estimates lead one to expect. The car is rated at 21/25 but around town I get 25-26 and out on the road 30-32. Oil consumption during that time is about 2-3 ounces. We have just gone to our winter formula RFG fuel in Atlanta so I am expecting a decrease in these figures. Just how much remains to be seen.

SynLube is not for use in an engine that has high oil consumption since it can do nothing about worn rings or value guides. At $30 a quart, it is cost prohibitive.

Anyone using dino oil and considering a switch to SynLube should use a synthetic like Mobil 1 for a few thousand miles to remove as much built-up sludge as possible. This way, SynLube works more effectively.

I am not a SynLube agent. I receive no money from them in any way. I am simply a satisfied customer.