Now that winter is here I;m wondering about my oil, I wont to go with synthetic and a bit of slic 50 or lucus added to it I'm hoping it will start better Am i right In thinking so?

 

just run a conventional 10-30 diesel oil in the winter,15-40 summer.the additives have never been proven to do anything in fact slick 50 was sued for making false claims not to mention it is a teflon product which is a solid and is extremely hard to get to stay suspended in the oil(i.e. it settles out)this to me would be a a potential problem as to it could start to plug things up after extended repeat usage.lucas is nothing more than a viscosity improver and has been shown to cause oil pump cavitation probs.synthetics are also a waste of money in my opinion.the extended drain interval thing is a joke unless you are doing oil analysis on a regular basis.even the amsoil dealer will tell you not to extend you drain interval past 6000 miles unless you do oil analysis. fuel washout oil contamination all can be probs and you might not even realize it that is why alot of manufacturer's went to the 3000 mile drain interval.where i work all of our company vehicles run carquest 5-30 and we have yet to have any engine related failures 3 of the vehicles have over 200k on them too.just strict 3000 mile drains is all we do. it is your money though,if your are set on synthetics i would recommend schaeffers(it is not a pure syn. though,it is blended)

 

thax for the good input , my thinking is when I'm ice fishing all day that engine has to start in the bush for me!

 

I've changed my own oil for years....I been to the extreme of changing oil & filter every 1000 kms in my brand new Firebird....more money than brains, I guess.

That was 30 years ago....
I can attest to effects of Duralube, it saved an engine in a Buick that I was driving....its a long story. The point I'm trying to get across is good maintenance is just that....
-are there additives that work...yes
-is synthetic better than dino...in my opinion...yes
-are some oil filters, better than others...so I've been told

But is it worth the money to put synthetic in an engine that has 200,000 plus milles on it....not in my opinion.

Now if you have a new engine......well you know what I was doing 30 years ago!

 

Where are you located, and what kind of temperatures are you dealing with?
In weather like I deal with, a full synthetic is the only way to go that will guarantee you aren't stuck in the middle of nowhere with a cold hunk of iron that won't start.
But, in warmer climates, a 10W30 dino will be no issue.

 

I'm in BC canada -20to -30
Heres the hitch, the block has about 90,000km on it but everthing else has I think 500,oookm on it even the ip.
what do u think

 

At about 300,000 miles I would think you are due for new injectors and an IP if they are original.

At 56,000 miles the block is just getting broken in.

I personally only use full synthetic in my engine, I am about 20,000 miles behind you on a full rebuild.

 

What type are u using

 

Am I looking at a lot of new iol leak if I go TO synthetic.

 

I run Esso 0W40 full synth for the winter, and, if I put enough miles on in the winter to need another change in the spring(I run 10,000 km intervals usually) I go to 15W40 dino for the summer, then back to synthetic right about this time of year.
Believe it or not, my leaker of an engine uses less oil with Synthetic in it than with dino....

With that mileage on the IP and injectors, I'd definatley be looking at replacement in the near future.

 

Im curious, with all the in put you have you must be a mechanic?
How hard is it to rebuild my own IP and put in the right parts for BIO
I still have the grey lines on my injectors
The bus runs good but seems to suffer from power loss on the top end.

 

I dont think there's a lot of people here that can rebuild thir IP. There are many small parts with very tight tolerances and it doesn't take much to ruin it. Many people here know how to inceace the fuel setting, but thats about it of the IP.

www.mwfi.com sells an "injector install kit" that has everything you need to replace those gray lines in between the injectors. They also sell alot of other parts.

 

Have you looked a diesel care.com,It seems to be about 100.00$ cheeper then mwfi.Do you know any thing about them.

 

I'm doing the 0/40 thing, is there any thing I should add to it as well and what do you think about stanadyne additive with B20 for the winter

 

From a few posts I have read here, minus 30 and B 20 may not be a good combination.

Diesel Care, at least five bad posts to every good post.