Canking fuel pressure
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I'm new to diesel engines. My cranking no start fuel pressure is 8 psi. I've changed the fuel filter and cleaned the screens on the pressure regulator so can I assume the mechanical fuel pump is bad? ....Or is there something else I should look at?
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I replaced the electrical wires and pass-through connectors under the valve covers. Several of the glow plug connections were badly scorched.
While I had the valve covers off, I cranked the engine. As I understand from other posts, I think I should have seen oil flowing from the injector high-pressure ports. Am I correct? I did not see any oil flowing in the area around the injectors. Does that mean my HPOP system has failed?
If so, how do I check that in the 94 1/2 model. I haven't seen any post about how to check the HPOP until about the 96 model year. Do I just need to just start replacing things until it works? The ICP sensor has a little oil in the connector so I have ordered one of those. Should get it in the next day or so.
While I had the valve covers off, I cranked the engine. As I understand from other posts, I think I should have seen oil flowing from the injector high-pressure ports. Am I correct? I did not see any oil flowing in the area around the injectors. Does that mean my HPOP system has failed?
If so, how do I check that in the 94 1/2 model. I haven't seen any post about how to check the HPOP until about the 96 model year. Do I just need to just start replacing things until it works? The ICP sensor has a little oil in the connector so I have ordered one of those. Should get it in the next day or so.
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Lead Driver
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From: Bahstun
If using the key to crank, there should be oil spurts from the injector relief spouts once HPOP hits 500 PSI
If connectors are burnt, maybe time to do GPs with ZD11, new Stancor relay along with UVCH pigtails and maybe injector orings while in there.
HPOP dont usually go bad. Get a BT scanner that run on andriod instead of throwing parts at it.
If connectors are burnt, maybe time to do GPs with ZD11, new Stancor relay along with UVCH pigtails and maybe injector orings while in there.
HPOP dont usually go bad. Get a BT scanner that run on andriod instead of throwing parts at it.
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knottyrope: Could you define the following terms: "GPs with ZD11, new Stancor relay along with UVCH pigtails"
As to the scanner, is there one that works on this vehicle? I'd love to get one, but understand they are only available for the UBD2. Do you know of one that works for the older vehicles?
As to the scanner, is there one that works on this vehicle? I'd love to get one, but understand they are only available for the UBD2. Do you know of one that works for the older vehicles?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Arkansas
ZD11 glow plugs, Stancor brand glow plug relay and under valve cover harness pigtails. I just picked up Autoenginuity scan tool and it works pretty great so far. Seems to be one of the preferred choices on FTE. From what I have read older non OBD2 computers can be swaped with 95+ PCM to be able to use a scan tool. And it may be even possible that that has already been done. So check first.
Lead Driver
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From: Bahstun
scanner to monitor your engine
Torque Pro
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...g.prowl.torque
Use the communication in the profile
SAE J1850-PWM
make sure you add in Ford PIDs
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ch.CarGaugePro
people like it cause it will pull codes, buzz test and CCT
Warning, Some OLD PCM's have to be flashed before you can pull codes
Torque Pro
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...g.prowl.torque
Use the communication in the profile
SAE J1850-PWM
make sure you add in Ford PIDs
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ch.CarGaugePro
people like it cause it will pull codes, buzz test and CCT
Warning, Some OLD PCM's have to be flashed before you can pull codes
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Update: HPOP pressure sensor had oil in the connector so I replaced it. Now the truck still will not start but is acting differently. It now sounds like it is trying to start but can't.
My truck has not been retrofitted with ODB2. I can't find any retrofit ODB to ODB2 on line.
Anyone have any suggestions about how can I check the HPOP function without ODB2 tools?
My truck has not been retrofitted with ODB2. I can't find any retrofit ODB to ODB2 on line.
Anyone have any suggestions about how can I check the HPOP function without ODB2 tools?
Lead Driver
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From: North Texas
Update: HPOP pressure sensor had oil in the connector so I replaced it. Now the truck still will not start but is acting differently. It now sounds like it is trying to start but can't.
My truck has not been retrofitted with ODB2. I can't find any retrofit ODB to ODB2 on line.
Anyone have any suggestions about how can I check the HPOP function without ODB2 tools?
My truck has not been retrofitted with ODB2. I can't find any retrofit ODB to ODB2 on line.
Anyone have any suggestions about how can I check the HPOP function without ODB2 tools?
Tried plugging it in for a while, then cranking? It has cooled off down here in Texas even... when I had an old starter, the truck would struggle to spin fast enough to light off.
To make your truck OBD2 compliant, you need a different PCM or yours reflashed. Some place reflashes online, I for my life cannot recall whom. Hell, Ford dealers still may have the capacity to do this...worth a shot to ask. While there, verify you have the safety recall done:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-control.html
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I've been periodically putting a charger on the batteries to maintain charge while I'm (slowly) working on the truck.
(and it is cold here also - 9 degrees F this morning.:-) and on of the reasons I've taken so long working on this in addition to being somewhat retired.)
I plug in the block heater for a few hours whenever I intend to work on the truck. How long does the heater need to be on before the engine is warm enough?
(and it is cold here also - 9 degrees F this morning.:-) and on of the reasons I've taken so long working on this in addition to being somewhat retired.)
I plug in the block heater for a few hours whenever I intend to work on the truck. How long does the heater need to be on before the engine is warm enough?