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@KubotaOrange76 offers some good advice here. I'd adhere to it.
If there is an "SPL-xx" (where xx is a variable number based on u joint size) version of Spicer U joint that will fit the application, I would definitely choose the SPL version over the 4 numerical digit denoted Spicer 10 series joint.
I do not know if there is an SPL equivalent for the 1350 and 1410 joints typically found in pickup trucks (I'm more familiar with chassis cabs), but if there is, that's what I'd go with.
The "cardan joints" were my most recent failure point, the joint at both the front and rear shaft went out right around the same time which must have failed some time ago and gone un-noticed, other that this odd squeal that I could not for the life of me track down and a strange vibration but only when in a high-speed sweeping turn. I suspected something in the front end. Eventually the cardan killed both u-joints in the rear shaft, when those tossed their cookies and I ended up with a cracked tail-housing.
The front failure and subsequent vibrations, even at lower speeds, also seemed to knock the nut loose on my front pinion shaft, which hopefully was caught soon enough that it didn't break anything.
Both were rebuilt by the same shop less than 30k miles ago, but obviously the front had way less miles on it as it only gets used occasionally. The shop supposedly used Dana/Spicer parts and both were covered under warranty, as was the cracked tail-housing, luckily.
I suspect when they initially rebuilt these, the cardans were left alone and only u-joints installed. Regardless, those cardan joints will F your S up if you don't get them right and the initial signs of failure are VERY odd. Tread with care.
Chet asked the question I quoted below in another thread, in an effort to not hijack the thread, I have posted his question and my response below...
Originally Posted by Bonanza35
Sous, did you also run the harness and relay's or just plug and play for now? Also what was it you had to order when you did the u joints on the drive shaft. Going to do mine and want all the parts. Mine is a little different cause it's a crewcab 4x4. Thank you,
Chet
It was a bit of an adventure for me because my truck has a SINGLE piece rear drive shaft with a double cardan (CV/universal) joint at the front of the driveshaft, which most trucks do not. I ended up having to get a two 1350 u-joints and one 1410 u-joint.
In addition, I needed a reseal kit and parts in order to freshen up the double cardan joint toward the front of the rear driveshaft. This required somewhat difficult parts for @SkySkiJason and I to find during the rebuild, so I had to leave the truck with him at his house/shop which was only about 2 hours from me.
The required parts in order to finish the job for my truck are noted in this post.
The job would have been cake if it had not been for the double cardan joint and the missing parts. Since you have a crewcab, you will likely have a carrier bearing which will probably need replacing as well. I would highly recommend Spicer life series U-joints vs. the greasable U-joints.
In order to make sure you are getting exactly the right U-joints, I would get the measurements of the U-joints installed on the truck now and go with those. I "think" the front will typically be the 1350 and the rear will typically be the 1410, but I don't know that for sure. Luckily, there is virtually no way to get the measurement wrong between the two since there is a 1/2" size difference.
The "cardan joints" were my most recent failure point, the joint at both the front and rear shaft went out right around the same time which must have failed some time ago and gone un-noticed, other that this odd squeal that I could not for the life of me track down and a strange vibration but only when in a high-speed sweeping turn. I suspected something in the front end. Eventually the cardan killed both u-joints in the rear shaft, when those tossed their cookies and I ended up with a cracked tail-housing.
The front failure and subsequent vibrations, even at lower speeds, also seemed to knock the nut loose on my front pinion shaft, which hopefully was caught soon enough that it didn't break anything.
Both were rebuilt by the same shop less than 30k miles ago, but obviously the front had way less miles on it as it only gets used occasionally. The shop supposedly used Dana/Spicer parts and both were covered under warranty, as was the cracked tail-housing, luckily.
I suspect when they initially rebuilt these, the cardans were left alone and only u-joints installed. Regardless, those cardan joints will F your S up if you don't get them right and the initial signs of failure are VERY odd. Tread with care.
beefy
I dont follow about the cardones being left alone ?
are you saying some change the actual knuckle and not just the u joint on either side ?
beefy
I dont follow about the cardones being left alone ?
are you saying some change the actual knuckle and not just the u joint on either side ?
Kyle
Kyle, beef **** left us a short while ago in order to pursue a better truck. So, he may or may not see your question.
Based on what he wrote, I believe he was saying the U-joints were replaced but the seal, spring and ball in the cardan joint were not replaced. I also believe he is stating that because the cardan was not refreshed, it caused severe damage despite the fact he had new U-joints installed.
Great find, I will probably get in there and clean up some of the old code so it is more pleasant to look at and read through. Probably going to add this to the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder at some point as well. It seems to have gathered some great advice from a wide range of FTE'rs.
There are two types of Double-Cardan Constant Velocity joints used in the driveshafts in this generaion of Superduties and Excursions. In the 99-02 SDs and 00-02 Excursions, the front driveshaft uses a Saginaw Type while subsequent years use the Spicer Type CV joint. Spicer Type CVs were used in the rear driveshafts for all years of this generation of Superduty/Excursion. To distinguish between the two types, please look at the following pictures:
Saginaw Type CV has a center yoke with a thicker web.
Spicer Type CV has a center yoke with thinner web. This image is missing the flange yoke but you get the idea.
The centering seats and ***** for the two types are very different. The Saginaw Type uses a ball pressed onto a stud on the flange yoke while the Spicer Type has a stud on the weld yoke "spinning" inside a needle bearing in the ball.
Also, as long as the driveshaft is the correct length, they are interchangeable between trucks so your 99-02 SD may or may not have a Saginaw type CV in there if the driveshaft has been replaced at any point. For instance, my truck (a 2000) had a front driveshaft with a Saginaw type CV until it got mangled in this incident. The replacement I got from Minnesota Driveline came with a Spicer type CV joint.
Amicus, when I was contemplating which route to go with the U-joints I called and spoke to the owner of Driveshaft Specialist Inc. He just happened to pick up the phone when I called and we spoke for nearly 15 minutes about my concerns, thoughts and questions. He was very, very helpful even though I told him up front I was not really looking to purchase anything, just trying to get some straight answers. He even said that he did not want me to purchase anything until I was ready and sure, but he would help me figure out what it was I needed. Great people to deal with in my opinion.
Leonard, this is great information that I was not aware of. It is good to know that regardless of the type of cardan joint on the truck, a front driveshaft of the same length will fit there just fine. This is good to know as it gives people two options to look for in case they need one.
I can confirm that my 2000 F-250 SC SB truck has a spicer front and rear cardan based on the images and stamps on the casting.
I did notice that the flange yoke seat on the front drive shaft was different than the flange yoke seat on the rear drive shaft when we were trying to get the truck back on the road temporarily, so there is that little tidbit of information added to your very informative post.
@Bonanza35 Chet, I went through the same U-joint search you are now when I created this thread. I even had 2 driveshaft specialty shops tell me I did NOT have 3 U-joints on my single piece rear driveshaft. They insisted I was wrong...
Take a look from the start of this thread when you have a few minutes and you get your answers. I know your WB is longer and you have a 2 piece driveshaft, but you may find your answers.
Thanks Sous, I was under there the other day, I have three u joints and a carrier bearing. The carrier bearing looks new and is good. I didn't measure them but they all looked the same size. Jason disagrees so I am sure I will have to source one out tomorrow. Thank you I will look back threw this later. Going shopping with the wife. I hate driving my sons F350, it is raised up with big tires and dark windows. The 6.0 part doesn't bother me but the raised truck i hate.
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