Now the Engine
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 92
From: California High Desert
Complete overhaul would be the right way. This is a low budget dump truck I use on my property mostly to haul sand a half mile away to the dry river bank. In seven years Imaybe have driven fifty miles. It will likely never see asphalt road. Odometer says 55k. Was a city maintenance vehicle auctioned off and owned by two other owners here in the desert before me. Don't know about first guy but the second guy didn't drive it much. Used it to pull skid steer for weekend side jobs. It had sat a long time when I bought it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 92
From: California High Desert
I decided to pull it out. It isn't as cold here as some places, high twenties in morning and 50 if lucky by noon but the thought of crawling under again on that cold cement was too much. Will have it out tomorrow.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 92
From: California High Desert
Got it out easy enough. Just curious if you pulled and reinstalled your engine assembled? I was able to use short 7/16" bolts in head bolt holes. There is not many places to chain onto the passenger side with head on. Just curious.
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Brett Foote
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Upstate NY
Yes, I used the head bolt threads as well. Ford used to sell a special tool/hook, that went down between and under the manifold which you could pull it with. (pics of it have been posted here and it is pictured in the factory shop manual), I didn't mind having the valve cover of anyway since it is so tight when pulling that long thing out with the front clip still in place.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 92
From: California High Desert
Yes, I used the head bolt threads as well. Ford used to sell a special tool/hook, that went down between and under the manifold which you could pull it with. (pics of it have been posted here and it is pictured in the factory shop manual), I didn't mind having the valve cover of anyway since it is so tight when pulling that long thing out with the front clip still in place.
Mine came out pretty easy. Had to remove front wheel t get hoist in from side.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 92
From: California High Desert
My question was about torquing the head bolts. If you torque the head bolts and then removed two to pick up engine or torqued all after putting engine in? Or put block in and then installed head?
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 705
Likes: 40
I would torque all the head bolts, remove the two you need to lift the engine and install block and head. After lifting reinstall the two head bolts, tighten, then re-torque all head bolts.
I would also consider installing the engine, then the cylinder head. The lift will be easier and the engine is very accessible. In this case, I would not use head bolts to lift the engine as you stand a chance of bending one. Use a correctly sized, shorter bolt which will also give you more height to get past the radiator support.
Lou Manglass
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 92
From: California High Desert
I would not lift the assembled engine by 2 head bolts without the remainder being tightened first, too much chance of the head/gasket/block moving in relation to one another and causing a leak.
I would torque all the head bolts, remove the two you need to lift the engine and install block and head. After lifting reinstall the two head bolts, tighten, then re-torque all head bolts.
I would also consider installing the engine, then the cylinder head. The lift will be easier and the engine is very accessible. In this case, I would not use head bolts to lift the engine as you stand a chance of bending one. Use a correctly sized, shorter bolt which will also give you more height to get past the radiator support.
Lou Manglass
I would torque all the head bolts, remove the two you need to lift the engine and install block and head. After lifting reinstall the two head bolts, tighten, then re-torque all head bolts.
I would also consider installing the engine, then the cylinder head. The lift will be easier and the engine is very accessible. In this case, I would not use head bolts to lift the engine as you stand a chance of bending one. Use a correctly sized, shorter bolt which will also give you more height to get past the radiator support.
Lou Manglass
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 306
From: Kenner,La.
Now the engine
Be sure to have the cam bearings replaced. That is the one thing that cannot be replaced with a “in frame” overhaul.
Pulling the engine is always the best way. I grew up working at my Dad’s mechanic shop and he was one of the type that believed in rebuilding the engine in the vehicle. I definitely do not miss those days!
Pulling the engine is always the best way. I grew up working at my Dad’s mechanic shop and he was one of the type that believed in rebuilding the engine in the vehicle. I definitely do not miss those days!