Duraspark 2 timing
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Duraspark 2 timing
I am having a heck of a time with timing my truck. I have a 1986 f150 with the straight 6. When I first got the truck and put 2 years ago, I changed it to the duraspark 2 ignition, timed and it has been great ever since.
Well one day the truck doesn’t start. I have fuel, but no spark. The voltage to the ignition components seem to be right. Ended up changing the ICM, coil and distributor because it was all under warranty. The only part of the ignition that isn’t new is the ballast, but it is pushing good values.
This weekend I put the new distributor in after finding top dead center on the compression stroke of the number on cylinder. Put it all back together and the truck won’t start. I can get it to hit as if it is about to start but that’s it. Can’t get the thing to start and run.
i checked all my connections, went through the process of finding TDC 3 times because I am using the thumb method to find the compression stroke and still no luck.
if someone can point me in the right direction, I’d be tickled pink. This is my daily driver and I don’t know where else to look.
Well one day the truck doesn’t start. I have fuel, but no spark. The voltage to the ignition components seem to be right. Ended up changing the ICM, coil and distributor because it was all under warranty. The only part of the ignition that isn’t new is the ballast, but it is pushing good values.
This weekend I put the new distributor in after finding top dead center on the compression stroke of the number on cylinder. Put it all back together and the truck won’t start. I can get it to hit as if it is about to start but that’s it. Can’t get the thing to start and run.
i checked all my connections, went through the process of finding TDC 3 times because I am using the thumb method to find the compression stroke and still no luck.
if someone can point me in the right direction, I’d be tickled pink. This is my daily driver and I don’t know where else to look.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Sounds like you're doing everything correctly. From this distance, the fact that one day it just decided to take a leave of absence is telling. Have you done a compression test?
I'd just provide the usual boilerplate advice given in these situations. Verify TDC on the balancer using a piston stop tool. Then you know that part of the equation is not part of the problem. Does the distributor rotor position align with the #1 terminal when the damper or balancer is at #1TDC?
I'd just provide the usual boilerplate advice given in these situations. Verify TDC on the balancer using a piston stop tool. Then you know that part of the equation is not part of the problem. Does the distributor rotor position align with the #1 terminal when the damper or balancer is at #1TDC?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
I would verify you are getting spark and fuel. Harbor Freight has cheap spark testers you can put inline to one of the sparkplugs. You can take the aircleaner off and pump the throttle to see if fuel is squirting down into the engine.
If the spark is iffy, you can check for 12v on the coil + during crank and run, and check the ignition module for 12 during crank and run. I just did a conversion like this on my 2.8 ranger, and first try it would not hit a lick. Found out the coil connector had half fallen apart when I plugged it back into the coil and was not making connection to the coil terminals.
If the spark is iffy, you can check for 12v on the coil + during crank and run, and check the ignition module for 12 during crank and run. I just did a conversion like this on my 2.8 ranger, and first try it would not hit a lick. Found out the coil connector had half fallen apart when I plugged it back into the coil and was not making connection to the coil terminals.
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OP
Thanks for all the replies, the help is appreciated. I haven’t done a compression test but the truck has never given any kind of indication of a failing cylinder before.
the rotor is lining up with the #1 Contact in the distributor and the mark on the harmonic balancer I used the first time I timed it is also lining up with the 0 degree tooth.
I have verified spark using my spark tester. However, something that surprised me was that I have spark in the distributor is roughly aligned where the previous on was. However, if I rotate the distributor too far left or right, I lose spark.
I checked voltage over the weekend when I had helped and everything seemed good, though I’ll check again. I have 7.5 volts coming out of the ballast. Am I wrong in thinking that’s too little?
the rotor is lining up with the #1 Contact in the distributor and the mark on the harmonic balancer I used the first time I timed it is also lining up with the 0 degree tooth.
I have verified spark using my spark tester. However, something that surprised me was that I have spark in the distributor is roughly aligned where the previous on was. However, if I rotate the distributor too far left or right, I lose spark.
I checked voltage over the weekend when I had helped and everything seemed good, though I’ll check again. I have 7.5 volts coming out of the ballast. Am I wrong in thinking that’s too little?
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
7.5V sounds about right IIRC.
Take the cap & rotor off, look at the device in the bottom that's got wires connected to it; is all of that wiring in OK shape and nothing is grounding out?
Take the cap & rotor off, look at the device in the bottom that's got wires connected to it; is all of that wiring in OK shape and nothing is grounding out?
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