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2012 rear diff problem

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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 12:30 PM
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2012 rear diff problem

2012 F-250 with e-lock rear diff.
Out of the blue it started popping while turning a corner.
Loud bang and a jerk while turning a corner at lo speed. Scared the heck out of me.
Right now it's locked and should not be.
Does any one have experience with these ?
Any history of failures ?
Thanks for any input.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 04:40 PM
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You should turn off the locker. Push the 4x4 **** in to turn off the locker before you destroy the rear end. I unlocks above 20 MPH and engages again under 20 MPH
 
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 09:25 PM
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Bone, re read the the post Thanks..
 
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 09:26 PM
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It is OFF.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 11:04 PM
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The only time I had an e-locker not want to disengage was when I was pulling a trailer. Once the load was relieved it disengaged. Maybe jack up the rear end and manually rotate the tires to try and get it to release?

If the gizmo in the differential (solenoid?) is shot then it may require some invasive surgery.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 05:08 AM
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so what about breaking the signal by way of disconnecting the electrical source?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 05:27 AM
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Good morning, Tim. Since I have not been into the Sterling locker, I am just guessing here. But on the DANA 44 E-locker that Jeep uses in the Wrangler Rubicon, one can pull the fill plug and take a screwdriver to physically move the lock ring to the disengaged position when it won’t unlock when turned off.
Strange that it locked up on its own that way though. As Scott said, possibly unplug the electric power supply, and see what happens.
Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 06:34 AM
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Thanks guys that's the info I was looking for Don !
I might have time to do some checking today.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 07:02 AM
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I also think unplugging the electrical connector at the differential is the quick first troubleshooting step. Possibly it shares power with fuse 40? Or more likely the TCCM provides the power based on this but I don't know where that module receives its power.

Originally Posted by MisterCMK View Post
This is from the service manual for 2013.

When the operator sets the Mode Select Switch (MSS) to either 4L, 4H or ON position (depending upon vehicle option content) to activate the ELD , the ELD icon displays in the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) message center. If the vehicle is driven above the disengage speed, the IPC message center no longer displays the ELD icon, alerting the operator that the ELD is disengaged. Once the vehicle drops below the re-engage speed, the IPC message center displays the ELD icon again. If there is a malfunction with the ELD system, a "CHECK LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL" message is displayed in the IPC message center, letting the operator know the ELD is not engaged.

The differential locks when a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) controlled magnetic field coil located inside the differential energizes. A collar within the differential moves toward a differential side gear and engages a dog clutch within the differential. This locks the differential side gears and creates the locked differential.

The Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) activates the ELD . When the ELD is engaged, the TCCM sends PWM voltage to the ELD field coil located in the differential. This voltage is initially 98% duty cycle, and then tapers off to 40% duty cycle after 30 seconds. In order for the TCCM to activate the ELD , certain conditions must be met.

TCCM Input Conditions
MSS set to ELD position
Average rear wheel speed versus average front wheel speed must be less than 15 km/h (9 mph) (via High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) communication from ABS module)
Operating range (voltage between 9-16 volts)
DTC setting range (voltage between 10-15 volts)
Ignition in the ON position
Throttle Position (TP) less than 50%
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 12:53 PM
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Thanks Kper for the refresher on how it works. !
The rear end is junk. Looks like the dog clutch ate it's pigs.
Anyone need some metal flake ??
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Iowa Ford
Thanks Kper for the refresher on how it works. !
The rear end is junk. Looks like the dog clutch ate it's pigs.
Anyone need some metal flake ??
kinda suspected that with it locking in on the fly like you described.
were you able to determine the “why”?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Iowa Ford
Thanks Kper for the refresher on how it works. !
The rear end is junk. Looks like the dog clutch ate it's pigs.
Anyone need some metal flake ??


Yep Kper is a wealth of info for sure. Why don't you save it for the next cheap paint job? Add it to the Rustoleum.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 06:48 PM
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Don't give me credit, I didn't know anything helpful! That's a quote from MisterCMK which is why I was sure to include his name and a URL to the post.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kper05
Don't give me credit, I didn't know anything helpful! That's a quote from MisterCMK which is why I was sure to include his name and a URL to the post.
Okay how bout this? You're a wealth of knowledge when it comes to finding links. That better?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 99150
kinda suspected that with it locking in on the fly like you described.
were you able to determine the “why”?
The guy at the place that's going to rebuild it said they are junk, just put a trac lock back in.
I honestly don't use the E-loc. A couple times when i got it is all.
I'm assuming I will need to salvage some of the electrical circuit so i don't get a fault code. ??
 
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