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The guy at the place that's going to rebuild it said they are junk, just put a trac lock back in.
I honestly don't use the E-loc. A couple times when i got it is all.
I'm assuming I will need to salvage some of the electrical circuit so i don't get a fault code. ??
I guess that depends if the TCCM does a circuit check at startup or only when (if) the switch is activated. If your guy has the Ford service manuals, he should be able to figure out the mode of operation to be able to answer that.
The TCCM is on the ECU high speed CAN network and DTC U0102 is "TCCM master message not received for 5 sec" but that doesn't mean the TCCM is also checking for an operational ELD.
I just did that and as I have read your posts since looks like it was something else that was going on in the rear end. I had my locker engage once and dont know how it happened. I was towing my 5th wheel down the highway and stopped for fuel when I had what you described. Turned off the locker and things went back to normal.
In your case something went terribly wrong inside the pumpkin.
I have not heard a single \issue with the rear ends on these trucks being junk. Keep us posted as to what was the issue with your's
Yup, Tim; very curious as to what the cause might be. I have since watched a couple videos on how the Sterling locker works. The principle appears to me to be very similar to the one in the Rubicon. It must have an electric signal in order to engage, unless there is a major malfunction of some kind. But, then I am not the final authority on either one, so........ who knows what happened.
Update.... I popped the cover for a quick peek and found 2 pieces of cast laying in the bottom. and LOTS of Grey iron metal flake.
Looked like they came off the left side of the diff, that's the E-Lock side. I was busy doing other things when this happened, so I just dropped and stripped the rear axle.
I dropped it off at a heavy truck shop and let them do the work. They said it wasn't their first one.
They stripped everything off axle cleaned it properly inside. Installed all new bearings and seals in entire axle. Set up new diff on old pinion and ring gear.
I had them put U-joints in the D/S while truck was apart.
The bill says Detroit Trutrac Ford 10.25 -10.5 was the Diff kit.
When I installed it I simply plugged in the E- lock connector on the axle.
No codes or check traction control warning. YET But I haven't pulled the **** yet......Who's gonna do that, right ?
Diff repair. $2147.
Driveshaft repair. $127.
Rotors and pads $225.
I was only down 2 days so I was happy. Hope this lasts a few more years.
Thanks for the update, that impacts the monthly budget a bit. Yeah, eventually the curiosity would get to me and I'd have to engage it... but likely better to avoid the check 4x4 message. If you keep driving it, use 4x4H/L and it's fine then that likely answers the TCCM doesn't check it at startup, only when you engage the ELD part of the switch.
Wait, you mean you didn't have the switch on this entire time!?
I'm late to the party as usual. Sorry about the repairs Tim. Sounds like they are sorted. The e-locker is nothing more than electronic switch. The "kit" SPE sells to lock it past 20mph (for drag racing) is a relay and some jumper wires if I recall. I'm thinking you have a mouse chewing on a wire or perhaps some brittle wire insulation or chaffing causing a short. Snip at the diff to leave it off is the quickest if you don't use it. Reach out to Darren if you want the service manual page to diagnose it and fix it to use it again.
Thanks for the update, that impacts the monthly budget a bit. Yeah, eventually the curiosity would get to me and I'd have to engage it... but likely better to avoid the check 4x4 message. If you keep driving it, use 4x4H/L and it's fine then that likely answers the TCCM doesn't check it at startup, only when you engage the ELD part of the switch.
Wait, you mean you didn't have the switch on this entire time!?
I'm late to the party as usual. Sorry about the repairs Tim. Sounds like they are sorted. The e-locker is nothing more than electronic switch. The "kit" SPE sells to lock it past 20mph (for drag racing) is a relay and some jumper wires if I recall. I'm thinking you have a mouse chewing on a wire or perhaps some brittle wire insulation or chaffing causing a short. Snip at the diff to leave it off is the quickest if you don't use it. Reach out to Darren if you want the service manual page to diagnose it and fix it to use it again.
Andre what you drinking ??? You really didn't read the whole thing did you
Oh well thanks for checking in Bud
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