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Hello guys,
I would like to start a thread, to test heads for internal cracks before installation on the block. I have already noticed several times (look at the thread of SmackDaddy), after a short time newly installed, heads got leakage problems. I now pressurized the fuel side (100psi) and tested the valves vacuum. I am now looking for a solution how to pass hot water through the heads to repeat the tests.
Regards from Germany
or would it be easier to put the heads on this plate and heat with a stove?
I did mineral spirits and vacuum for the valves, moderate air pressure in the coolant channels with a plate for coolant to fuel or oil channel cracks with an overnight hold. I didn't see a need to mimic installed injectors. All done at ambient, at operating temp may have helped.
All of this is covered in the International service manual. It will be in my head's video.
I would like to stress the heads just as much as they are stressed in the engine. Of course, heads are usually tested in a water bath, but I would like to try pumping hot water at about 30psi through the heads. I will take the measurements for the plate from the head, unfortunately I didn't find any information about it so far. To heat the water I would like to use the blockheater. Does anyone know at which temperature he switches off? It should be able to heat the water to 200°F, I don't know if it can do that. I estimate my test water volume at about 2 gallons.
I had sandblasted my used blockheater, the contacts were rusted.
Hello SmackDaddy,
I know that too. But I think the big iron block radiates more warmth than my small experimental setup. My guess is, the heater does not contain any "temperature monitoring" and it would even overheat with my small experimental setup.
I will test it on weekend with a bucket full of water.
The block heater does not have a thermostat. It's just on if it's plugged in. Depending on the watts of heat vs the exterior temp and wind speed, you'll stabilize engine preheat temp at a different point every time.
Dont try to test the block heater in open air. It will burn out. Always have it in water if you plug it in.
I just put one of the head gaskets on a plate of aluminum, marked and drilled as needed. Then used a copper union to punch out the holes in the gasket. I used it to pressure test as well as clean and flush the coolant passages.
The block heater does not have a thermostat. It's just on if it's plugged in. Depending on the watts of heat vs the exterior temp and wind speed, you'll stabilize engine preheat temp at a different point every time.
Dont try to test the block heater in open air. It will burn out. Always have it in water if you plug it in.
I al willing to bet that a temp controller could be found on Ebay that would do the job. https://www.ebay.de
I just put one of the head gaskets on a plate of aluminum, marked and drilled as needed. Then used a copper union to punch out the holes in the gasket. I used it to pressure test as well as clean and flush the coolant passages.
so is my plan Jack, thanks for the pictures.
I would like to do the whole thing additionally with hot water. I already had heads, which made problems only in the hot condition.
My idea is, I want to stress the heads under extreme conditions (pressure in the hot cooling system and pressure in the fuel system, but I check both one after the other).
What I cannot simulate is the thermal load in the combustion chambers.
Hello Sean,
In fact I have thought about keeping the temperature evenly over a longer period of time, maybe I will build a temperature control for the block heater, thanks for reply
At higher pressure you need all 10 fastening locations to prevent the aluminum from lifting. However, I did not go higher then 30 psi as I had no knowledge if pressure higher then that would distort the injector cups, causing an issue where there was none. The pressure test is noted in the International service manual, but not included in the Ford manual. They spec it only at room temp, and since I’ve not seen any existing issue, it was an optional test, only done as I was making the plate primarily to clean and flush wash the heads and block.
The extra holes are there to assist in flushing both the heads and block by moving the flow pattern.
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