When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I got this 02 f250 112k a couple weeks ago and the passenger side manifold was completely rusted out with 3 large hopes in it. The 7 remaining bolts were so rusted and fused to the manifold after a day of try to wrench them off with no success I grabbed my angle grinder and cut them all. ( seven bolts because one was already cracked off into the head before I started the job from the previous owner) So it took a couple days a few of them came out with vice grips and heat and I bought a 90 am flux Welder to get out the rest but I’m stuck on this last one, the bottom far left I just can’t get a weld on it! it’s sub flush about 1/4 inch in the hole. The frame is in the way so I can’t really get a easy out with my drill in there and I just kind of feel like booting that new manifold on with some gasket sealer and the thick gasket that came with the new manifold I bought off eBay. Has anyone ever installed a manifold with one bolt missing before what do you think the chances are I might blow the gasket out in the first year of driving like this. When I first tried to patch it with jb weld and header wrap Could tell were the bold ended and manifold started even after wire brushing and heating with map gas all day Last bolt is bottom far left Pita
You're doing what I need to do. And with my luck I think I will have a worse go of it.
I'm down a bolt on both of my headers and don't think they are leaking. But they are in the middle...not the end.
I'd marinate it in break free all week and take another go at it next weekend.
Old timer once told me the secret was get the headers as hot as you could... driving it...and then take them off. Personally working on red hot headers sounds painful.
Wish I had that much room when I did my 4.6 in my F150. If you haven't already tried it jack up the motor to get more room and use a right angle drill. Center punch the stub and drill a 1/8" hole first and then a left hand twist bit to open the hole up, if it doesn't come out with the left hand bit continue drilling it to the right tap size and tap the hole, be sure and keep the drill straight and mark the depth with a piece of tap so you don't drill to deep ( use one of the other holes for depth).
I haven’t started the truck since I removed the header.
It is a fair amount of space with strut and mount plate removed compared to what I’ve seen on other v8’s. The driver side is much tighter with a lot of components in the way so I’m happy to not be doing that side.
drilling out studs is definitely my least favorite automotive past time. I haven’t tried jacking the engine yet but as it sits now I don’t have the proper drill to get in there. I spent about 400$ on tools to get this done( flux welder, bolt breaker. Stud extractor, and a list of other little ****) it’s a big job for me to take on but I’ve wanted the welder for some time and it made things a lot easier. I’m not a fan of paying 100$/hr for labor so I do basically all the wrenching myself
Been through this a number of times in my shop - and have been successful in removing them by drilling when needed. As you've found, space is the biggest issue.
I have a Milwaukee M12 right angle drill - compact size, runs nice and slowly so you don't burn the crap out of bits. Extra batteries is a must (I have a bunch of the M12 stuff, along with 5 batteries and a 4 port charger).
Kind of expensive, but worth it - take a nice shiny new drill bit (or a few of them in gradually increasing sizes); and cut them down with your handy angle grinder. Basically cut them to the point where only about 1.5" sticks out from the drill chuck. This will allow much more access, and the drill can still grip the bit in the flutes.
As someone else already mentioned - start small and slowly work up. Be very aware of depth - you'll know right away if you screw this up, because you'll be in the water jacket....
Heat and a good penetrating oil will always help - everyone has their favorite penetrant; stay away from crap like WD-40 (in my opinion). I use Aerokroil - expensive, but works. Heat with MAPP for a few minutes, quench with Kroil - repeat a few times before drilling. Keep the drill bit lubricated as well.
Good luck - and with that amount of rust, I'll make one additional suggestion for you - replace the transmission dipstick tube while you're in there and have room to access. Right above the manifold it usually has a bend that is almost horizontal, and it rusts through. Had one customer that had a small fire when said tube started to spray ATF on the exhaust....
Ugh, I just started tearing my truck apart to do the studs on the V10. I called it quits last night right before I was gonna try loosening some, I just pulled everything around them to make it a little easier and soaked them , again, with PB. There's already at least 10 that are broke just from rust, I'm not looking forward to the next few days.
Ugh, I just started tearing my truck apart to do the studs on the V10. I called it quits last night right before I was gonna try loosening some, I just pulled everything around them to make it a little easier and soaked them , again, with PB. There's already at least 10 that are broke just from rust, I'm not looking forward to the next few days.
I didn't even try and take the nuts off until I cut the side off the nuts with a right angle die grinder with a 1/4" arbor and a 3" cut off wheel. Then soak them down with Blaster and used a 3/8" impact at lower air pressure to back the nuts off, the studs that I saved were in good shape so I chased the threads and reused them, remember they only touque to 20 ft lbs so if they aren't rusty just use them. I also used Fel-Pro gaskets because they are more forgiving than the OEM metal ones.
Been through this a number of times in my shop - and have been successful in removing them by drilling when needed. As you've found, space is the biggest issue.
I have a Milwaukee M12 right angle drill - compact size, runs nice and slowly so you don't burn the crap out of bits. Extra batteries is a must (I have a bunch of the M12 stuff, along with 5 batteries and a 4 port charger).
Kind of expensive, but worth it - take a nice shiny new drill bit (or a few of them in gradually increasing sizes); and cut them down with your handy angle grinder. Basically cut them to the point where only about 1.5" sticks out from the drill chuck. This will allow much more access, and the drill can still grip the bit in the flutes.
As someone else already mentioned - start small and slowly work up. Be very aware of depth - you'll know right away if you screw this up, because you'll be in the water jacket....
Heat and a good penetrating oil will always help - everyone has their favorite penetrant; stay away from crap like WD-40 (in my opinion). I use Aerokroil - expensive, but works. Heat with MAPP for a few minutes, quench with Kroil - repeat a few times before drilling. Keep the drill bit lubricated as well.
Good luck - and with that amount of rust, I'll make one additional suggestion for you - replace the transmission dipstick tube while you're in there and have room to access. Right above the manifold it usually has a bend that is almost horizontal, and it rusts through. Had one customer that had a small fire when said tube started to spray ATF on the exhaust....
ya I’ll check the tranny dipstick before the new manifold goes on. I have the easy out and left handed bits but I’m gonna give the welder one more shot before I start drilling.
For the drilling get a set of left-hand reverse twist drill bits. When using them if they happen to bite the stud it will spin it out for you and if they don't you're no worse off than if you used a regular right-hand twist drill bit.
I welded on mine..like 20 times on one of them....blast the wire in there till you build it up then do the nut thing..or drill. I would use the stainless kits on ebay from Mass they work well and no rust.
The oem ones dissolve...
Thankfully all the studs on my V10 are intact. If I had to go to this trouble I would look into a titanium version of these studs I saw from a link in one of these exhaust stud threads. That would definitely help with the thermal expansion issues but they were pricey.
