Hi all! Its been a while since I was here... Moved and a lot of things going on...
Anyway I am wanting to replace the ECM on my 1988 E150 with a 5.0 and AOD transmission. This van was sitting outside a salvage yard when I bought it several years ago so it is possible some parts were changed to get this van running before I bought it.
Anyway I am changing the heater core and the ECM is right there. I have not pulled it out to read the numbers that are normally on the front connector housing but there is a sticker on the back of the ECM that has the numbers "E9TF-AS1A" and just under those numbers is "A9J"

If I am correct the number should be E9TF-12A650-AS1A A9J
' When I do a general internet search with that number I come up with a ECM for a 89-90 Truck with a 5.0. once side included VAN in what it fits.
RA lists 8TF12A650KB and E8TZ12A650KB with Federal Emissions; I.D. #(s) E8TF-KB
Those numbers are the same numbers listed for a 1989 or 1988 E150 with a 5.0.

So the question is which one is correct?
is I do a search on RA, I can only use part #E9TF-12A650-ASA and that comes back for a 1990 E150 and E250

This Ebay add shows the E9TF-12A650-AS1A A9J (which is in the van now) fitting a 89 or 90..... RA shows theirs to be the same for 88 or 89... My van was bult in 87 and sold as a 89.

Anyway let me give you all the calibration code




Here is another code but I am not sure what it is a for.
It is a tag on one of the valve covers




symptom I am having are surging after driving a while, stopping somewhere for say 15 to 20 minutes and starting the engine back again. It surges up and down and will die sometimes unless you give it a little gas. It straightens right out and will run with no other problems. Thought possible leaking injector and the O2 sensor is trying to find where things need to be?

Symptom #2 when engine is warmed up and I am pulling long steep grades, I hear a "single" snap like a plug wire ark and I feel the van buck for that instant. It sometimes will do it several times if I continue to hold down the throttle and climb the hill. If I let off the throttle just a little as I am climbing the hill it doesn't do it.

This van has done this for a2 or 3 years but 3 years ago it was just now and then. Since it has started getting worse. I am worried about going on a long trip in it now. Around town it is fine.

Symptom #3 This is tied in with symptom 2.. Last summer I was pulling a small trailer and hauling a 22HP wheel horse tractor/mower across the NC and N-GA mountains. That is a when the Symptom #2 seemed to get worse and I also noticed a rise on the temp gauge that was not normal. I pulled the trailer there with no problems. the mower weights around 600lbs but the temps went up almost 20 degrees climbing long grades.
If not getting enough fuel, can it cause a lean condition and run hotter then normal along with an occasional engine cut out feeling?

Thanks Anna

 

You may want to check the throttle position sensor. It may be getting a dead spot. Best to test with an old school sweep gauge not a digital one so you can see the needle jump.

 

NOTE: Dept of worthless info: E8AE-6E061-ADK is the ID number just for this sticker. Has nothing to do with the Calibration Code.
.
Calibration code: 7-54K-R12 = Calibration Parts List # 603 .. See parts catalog pic below.

E9TZ-12A650-ASA .. Processor & Calibrator Assy / Marked: E7TF-12A650-AV1C or AV2C or E8TF-12A650-K1B or K2B / Obsolete

Applications for part list 603 from 1980/89 Light Truck Parts Catalog: 1987/89 E150/250 302/AOD except CA or Hi-Altitude.

RockAuto has "remanufactured" processors.

 

Thanks Spaznaut..
I will dig out my old meter and check it... it will probably be a little while but good suggestion.. A couple of years ago I puled the upper intake off and cleaned it, cleaned the throttle body, new EGR, and new TPS. Prior to that I could accelerate between 5 to 10 or so MPH and holding the accelerator steady while on a slight incline, you could hear and barely feel a slight surging. After the work was done, it still did the same thing. Most of the work I have done on the van as been preventative as it was 28 years old when I got it and some of the old sensors and other parts have rubber diaphragms in them.. All replacement parts have been Mortorcraft or Ford so far. But nothing has ever changed the slight surging. I did change the O2 sensor a couple of years ago and that seemed to make a difference but could have been placebo effect.

My main concern is that jerk or skip. I have heard and seen bad spark plug wires arcing out before and that snap is the same sound I hear at the exact time I get the jerk. It is quick and there is no pattern to it except it seems to only do it under a load uphill and more so when in OD. I
f I continue holding the throttle to hold the speed, it might snap and jerk several times before reaching the top of the hill, but with no certain pattern. IF I just slightly let off the accelerator, it does fine. A couple of years ago it was just once in a while it would happen but no it has become disconcertingly more frequent.

I tuned the van up a little over 30k ago and replaced the wires while at it. My best guess is 138k on the van now. The PCM is old and I have heard the capacitors are bad about going out and people having all sorts of odd issues. since it is 30 years old I thought I would replace it. I will keep the orignal and take it apart to see if I can visually see a problem.

I thought about fuel pressure because it does it going up hill when one would hold the throttle down. I haven't changed the fuel filter since I have owned the van but the PO had just replaced the filter, tank, and tank pump. I will be replacing it with this current work. But if it was restricted fuel under load, what would cause the snap sound and only one quick jerk?

The ECM mounts just under the heater core case. the front of the ECM goes through the firewall while the back has a plastic bracket that supports the rear of the ECM That plastic bracket also has a metal tab on it for a ground. A ground wire screws to that metal tab. The bottom of that bracket is broken so I do not believe it was making a good ground connection and that might be part of the problem.



This is not the exact bracket but gives you an idea. Have no idea if a new bracket could be found without finding one in a salvage yard. Perhaps it would be easier to fabricate one.

Again thanks for the reply and any other suggestions are welcome.... Right now the van is my daily driver and I have to be mindful of that when doing repairs.

 

Thank you Number Dummy!
I would have replied earlier but wanted to check around and see what I could find.
Yes RA has the E8TF-12A650-KB listed but not a K1B or K2B.'
Checked local and seems most local stores including NAPA buy from Cardone which supplies RA... Now AZ uses a company called Blue Streak Electronics and they want 100 for a core charge. I am going to keep the old original one. I was looking to see if anyone had more then a 1 year warranty but none did.

Called a online company that said they had a K2B processor in stock for $300

So the question is will just the KB work (that is what everyone seems to recommend) or does it have to be a K1B or K2b? One ECM shop I called said K1b and K2b are both the same chip sets so either would work.

So again a big thanks to you Number Dummy and I hope all is well with you.

A couple more things while you are here, please,,,
The part number for the PCM bracket support? Perhaps by accident I can find one online.
Also while I am changing the heater core, I want to change the heater hoses. I would like to find the factory hoses with the quick connects molded on the end of the hose. But I do not know the part numbers. The aftermarket hoses require you to buy the quick co9nnectors separate and use hose clamps to fasten the hose to the quick connects...
My 1988 E150 with 5.0 AOD has a integrated factory AC with a single front standard output heater.

Here is some pics of the PCM bracket along with the engineering number. I am going to try the super glue an baking soda mix repair first... I am also guessing that the ground screw could always be screwed directly to the ECM case if need be..

You can see how the bracket is supposed to hold up the PCM but the bottom is broken off. You cant see the ground strap but the mounting screw is passing through the eyelet ring for the strap.



Here is what it should look like. You can see how the ground raps around the plastic and would clamp against the ECM case once the bracket is mounted.




broken bottom





and lastly the engineering number perhaps?

 

Well scratch the need for the "Support (EEC Processor Bracket) I found a brand new one! Their part number was a little off but i was doing a picture search for EEC support bracket E150 when i saw it!

FORD BRACKET E8UZ-128522-A

Condition: New other (see details)“New Open Bag, NOS, As Pictured”

 

The 8 is supposed to be a B but this is an invalid part number.

It's not listed in the parts catalog, I typed it into the Ford online website...no record.

I know the application is: 1988 E150 302/AOD except CA, except Hi-Altitude, but: with or without A/C?

And, there's no such thing as an ID number ending in KB, the auto parts store dropped the number between K & B .. as it supposed to be K1B or K2B

 

"I know the application is: 1988 E150 302/AOD except CA, except Hi-Altitude, but: with or without A/C?"
oh, thats right,,, Yes it has AC, PS, PB... Maybe the K1B or K2B has to do with if it has AC or not

I guess I need to pull mine all the way out and see exactly which number is on it.... I am still driving it because it does fine around town. I removed the passenger seat in order to get the dog house off easier but I was saving the dog house removal for last. With the dog house off i think I can reach the heater hose connectors and ECM connector. I know the ECM connector is under the cover for the AC condenser because I had to pull the connector apart to remove the cover when I replaced the condenser. With the dog house off I should be able to just reach around the firewall under the condenser cover and the bolt should be right there.


As to the part number for the EEC bracket...
I looked here at this master parts list for 1980/89 and couldn't find that part number either. section 120 page 29
http://www.icsarchive.org/icsarchive...n%20system.pdf

 

I don't know if you have been following any of my threads around here recently, but I have a 1990 E350 460 CID EFI RV that has been stumbling under load, usually between 35-45 MPH. This is not under wide open throttle, but rather when lugging while in top gear.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nder-load.html

Things I have replaced so far:

• Catalytic Converter (known bad)
• Fuel Filter
• In-Tank Fuel Pump (about 5 years ago, after OEM burned up)
• Engine Temperature Sensor
• Air Charge Temperature Sensor
• MAP Sensor
• Distributor
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Coil
• Ignition Control Module
• EGR Valve
• EGR Position Sensor
• EGR Control Solenoid
• Most rubber vacuum hoses
• Idle Air Valve
• Fuel Pressure Regulator

The problem seemed to go away after replacing the last thing I replaced, the Air Charge Temperature Sensor. But I went for another test drive and there was still some slight hesitation there. Last weekend I pulled all the fuel injectors and back-flushed them using an injector tester and carb cleaner. Unfortunately I cross-threaded one of the 4 fuel rail bolts on re-assembly and twisted the head off the bolt. I had it towed to my shop to see if they can extract it. They may have to pull the manifold to do it, if they can't get it out otherwise.

I had actually ordered a new computer at one point but when I put it in it bucked and stumbled from the get-go.

So I am at a loss.

Just before I replaced the ACTS I had run 2 bottles of Gumout Fuel Injector Cleaner through about 1/4 tank left of gas, and then filled up with Costco Top Tier Detergent gasoline. So I don't know if replacing the ACTS helped, or if it was the injector cleaner and gasoline.

Steve

 

I went over and read through your other thread. Wow you have done a lot of work on that motor home trying to trace down the problem. You don't have many parts left to change. I am going to go back and reread it again later. I have no idea yet what to recommend. In my case I do hear that snap sound the instant it misses. I will be taking the doghouse off soon and am going to test drive the van with it off and try to identify where the snap sound come from when it misses. With the doghouse on, the sound seems to be on the drivers side near the rear of the engine. In my 5.0 there is a set of 3 vacuum valves. The TAB, TAD, and Egr valve control solenoid.
I did try something and learned that snap-skip will happen on a flat when in drive and you press the accelerator down as far as one can without it dropping down to passing gear. It will repeat itself but it is a few seconds apart and the number of seconds vary. sometimes 2 sometimes 5 seconds but so far never one right after the other.
Maybe a year and a half ago it seemed to only do it just once in a while and I do not remember hearing the snap sound with it.

Winter is a good time to test drive with the doghouse off because the engine gives off an incredible amount of heat driving down the road. Just make sure you have no exhaust leaks!

 

I saw a youtube video just today where a more modern Ford was making a snapping noise under the hood and it was causing the computer to throw codes. Turns out the coils were arcing to ground and that was the snapping noise and the electrical jolt was shocking the computer.
I don't think they put Motocraft wires in my RV - I may replace what I got with some higher quality ones.

I should get my RV out of the shop next week, so I can see if my fuel injector flushing helped.

Steve

 

Most all of the replacement parts on my van are Motorcraft or Ford but my plug wires are from NAPA. Some aftermarket parts are equal or better then stock. But some parts are best if replaced with Ford or motorcraft. Especially if they are calibrated control parts.

My van has a single fuel tank but 2 fuel pumps. The one on the frame is a MOTORCRAFT PF5 and Rock Auto wants $315.00. That pump is 30 years old and I would love to replace it with a Motorcraft but am afraid that unless I win the lottery, it will be an after market part!.

Thanks for the suggestion about the short on the coil... The coil is on the left side just behind the AC compressor bracket. You know the support bracket for the ECM that I am replacing is also the ground for the computer. Before I replace the computer I am going to replace the bracket and see if grounding the computer fixes the problem.

I am going over to your thread later or tomorrow and ask a couple of questions like how you cleaned the injectors and where you got the electronic fuel gauge...

Im also glad you are getting it back.. hopefully cleaning the injectors might do the trick.

 

FORD BRACKET E8UZ-12B522-A

I got the new bracket today and there was an old shipping paper inside the bag. It shows the same part number you said it should be. .. E8UZ-12B522-A
I agree with you that that number does not appear to be any valid Ford part number but I did find a website that claims to know where 4 of them are using that number.
(just in case anyone ever runs across this page and needs one its a place to look. )
FORD LINCOLN MERCURY PART 1 Call for Pricing
Also
NOS claims to have on but no description and cays to call for availability.

The Ford bag is old as well as the paper appear to be dated 1988.. Perhaps you might recognize the shipping bag and document..

 

PF5 = MSRP: $607.89 // autonationfordwhitebearlake.com online price: $367.77

 

Yes and I have been looking around and waiting to find it for 1/2 price so I would have one on hand but no luck in 3 years..... Just thought, next time I go to a salvage yard I should look for one! Perhaps a used Ford pump would be better then a new after market one...

Thanks for looking!!!


OH, if anyone needs one,, $279 at walmart..
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraf...hoC5CAQAvD_BwE