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Leaking Brake Fluid

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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
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Leaking Brake Fluid

Replaced the hoses on my front brakes. Installed the hose to the caliper (old and rusty) with one washer placed in the caliper recess between the hose and caliper, and another washer under the head of the bolt (banjo bolt?). Driver side is holding fluid, but the passenger side is not. Fluid is leaking at the interface between the hose and caliper.

Here are my ideas...
- washer in the caliper recess is fully recessed and, I'm not getting a seal when tightening the hose to the caliper. plan to run my finger over the washer/recess tonight to see if any of the washer protrudes. have tried new washers, and the same thing happened both times.
- seating surface for the hose on the caliper is rusty, and the rough surface is creating high spots that keep the hose from clamping down on the washer properly.
- banjo bolt is damaged?...

As I type this, I'm thinking the solution is probably replacing the calipers, but wondering about other people's opinions/experiences.

Thanks in Advance
 
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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 02:05 PM
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Are you using copper washers?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 02:18 PM
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I am. They were supplied with the brake hose.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 02:53 PM
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When I changed my hoses out I used a small wire brush on a drill and gently cleaned the mating areas where the washers went and the seating surfaces. Mine were not bad, I then tightened everything down and havent had a problem. You can get the washers at the parts store if you are going to try to re do it.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 04:35 PM
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Are the washers the same thickness as what was on it before? If they're too thin, the metal end of the brake hose might be hitting the caliper, preventing it from clamping properly. IIRC the last time I put calipers on something, the supplied washers were the wrong size and I ended up reusing the old ones.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 02:05 PM
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Update.

Did the front calipers this morning. Washers that came with caliper were probably twice as thick as the ones that came with the aftermarket hoses. System is now holding fluid with no leaks.

Despite installing new bleeder screws in the rear, wrench continues to slip on the right rear, so that side was gravity bled for about 20 mins. Other wheels bled sucessfully. Took the truck around the neighborhood, and it 'has brakes', but brakes go to the floor with little resistance.

Worried the master cylinder may have sat too long without fluid in it due to the previous leaks. If that isn't the issue, does anyone have ideas about what the problem may be/what I should do next?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 03:27 PM
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Clean all of the areas where the brake were bled with brakekleen, make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full, then crank truck and apply brakes. If pedal goes to floor, without any sign of leaking at wheel cylinders, that indicate's the master cylinder is indeed bypassing, or a line is leaking.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 04:39 PM
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Ugh... not what I wanted to hear, but probably did that to myself letting the master cylinder run dry.

I'll have to give it a second look, but nothing seemed to be leaking. Just one more thing to replace it seems. I'll have a brand new truck by time I'm done with this 'brake project'.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 07:14 PM
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So just out of curiosity as I'm thinking about it... I've seen the videos where people say don't EVER leave the master cylinder dry. Is that a thing where it's just a pain in the *** to bleed the system if it runs dry, or the master cylinder is just that easy to damage?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 1994VA250
Ugh... not what I wanted to hear, but probably did that to myself letting the master cylinder run dry.

I'll have to give it a second look, but nothing seemed to be leaking. Just one more thing to replace it seems. I'll have a brand new truck by time I'm done with this 'brake project'.
I bought my truck about 6 months ago. I put in a new clutch, flywheel, u joints, hanger bearing, rear wheel outer bearings, all new front bearing and rotors, calipers, flexible lines, one crossover brake line, new rear brakes, five new tires, front bushings, shifter bushing, new a c lines and compressor and a thermostat. I feel secure that none of those things are gonna break and let me down. Master cylinders aren't hard to replace, and then you will have good brakes for a long time.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2019 | 12:22 AM
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New master cylinders ship dry. It's just more difficult when you have to bleed the whole system. You may need to bench-bleed the master. You may also have air in the ABS valve, IIRC that has a bleeder too on these.

Good luck. I hate working on brakes.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2019 | 07:33 AM
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I recall seeing something about bleeding the RABS valve in the Haynes manual, but it wasn't clear where it was at.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2019 | 08:13 AM
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RABS valve is on the driver’s frame rail under the firewall.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2019 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1994VA250
I recall seeing something about bleeding the RABS valve in the Haynes manual, but it wasn't clear where it was at.
it's just about in line with the door gap where fender and door meet, inside frame rail. takes a 6 or 8 mm if I recall correctly. to bleed properly it should be passenger side rear, driver side rear, RABS unit, passenger side front, drivers side front.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2019 | 12:15 AM
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Replaced the master cylinder today. And bled the system as described in the previous post. Brakes still spongey. Out of ideas. Plan to limp to the mechanic with the brakes the truck does have and let him figure out the rest. Ugh.
 
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