Brake hose issue
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Brake hose issue
Just replaced the power booster and master cylinder. Since it is now 43 years old I thought it a good idea to replace the brake hoses as well. Seemed straight forward until I was bleeding the brakes. Right front is ok but left front hose leaks at the connection point to the caliper. Used both copper washers on both hoses but the left front is persnickety. Have put the eyes closely to check for burrs, etc. Nothing obvious. One copper washer between caliper and metal block at one of hose and one copper washer between metal bock at end of hose and bolt (think its called a banjo bolt) that fits into it.
Have owned truck about four years. Its a 74 f100 with 360 2v. auto trans and 2 wheel drive. The last idea I have is a microscopic crack in the hose above the metal block. Nothing obvious. I've looked. What am I missing here?
Thanks in advance for your input and ideas. Sure am wasting a lot of brake fluid.
Have owned truck about four years. Its a 74 f100 with 360 2v. auto trans and 2 wheel drive. The last idea I have is a microscopic crack in the hose above the metal block. Nothing obvious. I've looked. What am I missing here?
Thanks in advance for your input and ideas. Sure am wasting a lot of brake fluid.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
Copper washers = compression washers...and yes, the bolts with the little hole in 'em are called banjo bolts.
Make sure the compression washers have the correct diameter, are seated well in the caliper and the hose block. There should be a slight indentation in both the caliper and hose block where the washers set.... Sometimes when tightening they (washers) can get..."unseated"...and leak.
Other times one has to crank down on those puppies to get 'em to crush properly.
Mebbe you could clean up the hose block, set the washers tightly and have a helper stand on the brakes whilst you peek for leaks? Have a rag handy if you're suspecting more leaks.
I've known people to use two crush washers on the top or bottom side if they leak.....
Make sure the compression washers have the correct diameter, are seated well in the caliper and the hose block. There should be a slight indentation in both the caliper and hose block where the washers set.... Sometimes when tightening they (washers) can get..."unseated"...and leak.
Other times one has to crank down on those puppies to get 'em to crush properly.
Mebbe you could clean up the hose block, set the washers tightly and have a helper stand on the brakes whilst you peek for leaks? Have a rag handy if you're suspecting more leaks.
I've known people to use two crush washers on the top or bottom side if they leak.....
Postmaster
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Maybe a combination of things. Copper washers sold today are thinner and harder to seal. Also, maybe the end of the brake hose is not quite right... warped, scored ect. May be worth trying the double washer trick (with new washers) or exchange the brake hose.
For best sealing, always start with unused washers.
For best sealing, always start with unused washers.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
Agreed.
Have you ascertained from where the leak is coming? Where the rubber meets the metal..... from the banjo bolt......from the lower crush washer......?
I understand it could be difficult to pinpoint the leak...but it would help to find it.
Have you ascertained from where the leak is coming? Where the rubber meets the metal..... from the banjo bolt......from the lower crush washer......?
I understand it could be difficult to pinpoint the leak...but it would help to find it.
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i'll try doubling up on the crush washer tomorrow. The leak appears to come from between the caliper and the metal block at the end of the hose. I'm guessing the lower crush washer but it is well indented on both sides with the casting circles. Would a good dose of permatex make a good seal? Bet there is a lot of pressure generated on these fittings during a panic stop. Found the invoice from LMC. Been 2 years since the purchase.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
I'm not aware of any kind of sealant that would be impervious to brake fluid.
Another thought: The tolerance between the banjo bolt and brake line's metal block should be....not too sloppy. Question: Have you tried applying air - to blow/clean out the banjo bolt's line? As in, mebbe there's a piece of snot inside it that's not allowing the fluid to flow....?
Try to use air and not yer mouth...brake fluid has a very unappealing taste...and not good for human consumption....
Another thought: The tolerance between the banjo bolt and brake line's metal block should be....not too sloppy. Question: Have you tried applying air - to blow/clean out the banjo bolt's line? As in, mebbe there's a piece of snot inside it that's not allowing the fluid to flow....?
Try to use air and not yer mouth...brake fluid has a very unappealing taste...and not good for human consumption....
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Success still illusive. Couldn't get new crush washers today. Try again tomorrow and will clean out banjo bolt area. Looks clean and leaks with absolutely zero peddle pressure. Started backup plan and ordered new hose from Rock Auto. Will be back at grindstone tomorrow.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
There's a whole lot of people, meself included, that wouldn't order doodley squat from LMC.....PBY (above) jokingly said it all....
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Exactly this. I've noticed this as well about the thickness or, lack of. You can try taking a propane torch and heat the new copper washer up until it's cherry red, let it cool off and install it. This will anneal (soften the copper up) so that it'll have a better chance of sealing off.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
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Exactly this. I've noticed this as well about the thickness or, lack of. You can try taking a propane torch and heat the new copper washer up until it's cherry red, let it cool off and install it. This will anneal (soften the copper up) so that it'll have a better chance of sealing off.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
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And for what it's worth...
There's a brake fluid discussion going on on my Corolla's forum, and one guy said he'd seen some instances of rubber brake hoses swelling shut after switching to DOT4 fluid.
Oops - wrong thread...
There's a brake fluid discussion going on on my Corolla's forum, and one guy said he'd seen some instances of rubber brake hoses swelling shut after switching to DOT4 fluid.
Oops - wrong thread...