Frustrated
What is the year, series and what engine does it have?
The best way to go about this is to take your time, and do your troubleshooting in a methodical way. This is a 1970 F100, right? What engine do you have in it? One problem is after 50 years, who knows what's in there.
But, the basics are still the basics. Before getting spooled up and deploying the parts cannon, it is wise to make some very basic tests to see if the engine is even worth tuning up. It will not make smooth power or efficiency if the compression is bad, for example. Modern engines will go many thousands of miles, but in 1970 they were about spent at 75k or 100k, especially if they were neglected. Consequently every tune-up manual always had "Compression Testing" right on the first page. None of us are there looking over your shoulder or can take a look at it, all we can go by is what you tell us.
When a "new" engine comes into your world, it's worth giving everything a once over with a jaundiced eye. Prior owners may or may not have made the necessary maintenance or repairs. Check everything - everything - including that the spark plug wires are in the proper firing order and connected to the spark plugs. Have to expect some hiccups along the way with an old truck, it comes with the territory.
Verify TDC on #1 with a piston stop tool and make sure the timing marks on the balancer haven't shifted.
I have this 1970 F-100 with a 4.9 six in it. When I got it a few months back it was running fine. Had really no issues for as old as it is. But now I figured out that the guy before me had the alternator. Wired wrong so it kept frying alternators and voltage regulators and that little thing next to the regulator (looks like a condenser). Anyway, got that all squared away. But now when it runs the alt. Gauge flickers from zero to discharge. Like the turn signals are blinking. It will run for say 5-8 minutes then start to bog or act like it's running out of gas. Now, no matter how I feather the gas it still bogs out and dies.
Now, it has New starter, voltage regulator, alternator, fuel filter, power steering pump and hoses and, a new carb., New cap, rotor, points, wires. It should be running and stay running. But it won't.
I hope that sheds a little light on my situation. I don't know what to do beyond what I have been doing.
Also, 1970 means points & condenser ignition. Did it get replaced with those el-cheapo no name condensers recently? Very common for bum condensers these days. Put the old one back in.
I have this 1970 F-100 with a 4.9 six in it. When I got it a few months back it was running fine. Had really no issues for as old as it is. But now I figured out that the guy before me had the alternator. Wired wrong so it kept crying alternators and voltage regulators and that little thing next to the regulator (looks like a condenser). Anyway, got that all squared away. But now when it runs the alt. Gauge flickers from zero to discharge. Like the turn signals are blinking. It will run for say 5-8 minutes then start to bog or act like it's running out of gas. Now, no matter how I feather the gas it still bogs out and dies.
Now, it has New starter, voltage regulator, alternator, fuel filter, power steering pump and hoses and, a new carb., New cap, rotor, points, wires. It should be running and stay running. But it won't.
I hope that sheds a little light on my situation. I don't know what to do beyond what I have been doing.
As far as I can tell with an electro meter at the battery while running the meter shows right around 13volts. When I put in the plugs points condenser and rotor and new carb. I didn't skimp on cheapy parts. Also I realize that 30% of new parts can be bad right off the shelf. This is a new to me problem
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Well the parts cannon appears to be fully operational, at least.
What is the quality of the spark when you test a grounded plug right now? Then, when it dies after a few minutes the next time, be ready to check spark. Pull a plug wire, install a spare plug and crank it over with a remote starter switch. Need to see a blue spark. Not yellow. Or, even easier just pull the coil wire. Should jump 1/2" to ground.
Basically first rule out ignition, then if OK look at carburetion or fuel delivery from the pump as mentioned. Maybe choke problems. These are simple beasts, you'll get 'er.
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how much voltage do you have at the coil + terminal with the engine running? Do you have a spare coil laying around that you could test with?
It's a long long shot but look at the fuel sending unit and check for silicone. I had a friend who used silicone to seal his. Each one of the screws pushed a little bead of silicone into the tank.
They swelled up to the size of grapes and one day when his fuel got low one of the grapes got sucked up against the intake tube.
That was hell to diagnose!
Ok time for a story inspired by Millam z post....My father was Mr Fix it for his far less than handy friends. We had a family friend who while a great guy was about as handy as the wall is at fixing stuff. My pop would install dishwashers etc for his friend Zal. Zal was a municipal court judge. who had a wit like a vipers fang are...sharp and very quick. he was funny as heck..The Zalman family was experiencing a toilet that just would overflow here and there out of the blue...this was a young family no teenagers etc to do their business and plug it up....you know little kids 10 years old and under.3 girls and a baby boy...this toilet was frustrating my pops....its a simple devise why was it out of the blue plugging up? My pops had enough...he was determined to find out why it was not letting the water flow...finally after 90 days of this stuff, he dragged the toilet out to the back yard and was just about to take a hammer to it to expose its insides when a gleam of sunlight hit something at the bottom of the bowl where the water drains....there was a toy in there...a CLEAR dolls baby bottle in the shape of a coke bottle that would flip occasionally to block the flow of water....kinda like the silicon grapes in Milliam's story.....there now the diversion is done...go find and fix this thing....I bet there is a hole or a crack in a rubber fuel line somewhere....does this truck start back up with a squirt of either or brake cleaner directly into the carb?













