1982 f-100
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Elder User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Peoria, Arizona
1982 f-100
My father in law has had this truck sitting in our side yard for the last 6 - 8 years and I am trying to get it running again to give to my son. It has over 200,000 miles on it. I'm thinking of having the engine rebuilt. Or possibly just doing that myself. (although I am far from a professional. Any advise on that idea is welcome also)
I rebuilt the carb and stuck a new battery in it. I imagine any gasoline in it is totally useless at this point. I primed the carb with good gas and tried to start it and it just turns over but never catches.
Anyone have any ideas on where I should start to get the thing running? And where can I find a complete replacement for the dash? I can find every other part for the inside of the truck on LMC Truck Parts: Chevy Chevrolet Blazer S10 GMC Jimmy S15 Ford Bronco Ranger Pickup Pick Up Accessories/Catalogs but not the dash.
any help appreciated!
I rebuilt the carb and stuck a new battery in it. I imagine any gasoline in it is totally useless at this point. I primed the carb with good gas and tried to start it and it just turns over but never catches.
Anyone have any ideas on where I should start to get the thing running? And where can I find a complete replacement for the dash? I can find every other part for the inside of the truck on LMC Truck Parts: Chevy Chevrolet Blazer S10 GMC Jimmy S15 Ford Bronco Ranger Pickup Pick Up Accessories/Catalogs but not the dash.
any help appreciated!
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: East Bernstadt, Ky
To get the dash pad I would send a pm to stosh he has several of them. As far as getting the truck running first drain the 8 year old gas out and give it some fresh and see where it goes from there. When starting a new project, especially when its not running, I always break it down to 3 main categories:
1. Fuel - make sure you are getting good clean fuel into the combustion chamber.
2. Spark - make sure you are getting a good spark all the way through the wires and the proper voltage to the plug.
3. Air - make sure there is a sufficient amount of air getting into the combustion chamber.
If you ensure that you are getting all three of these you will have a running engine. Maybe not the best running but running none the less. Then you can look into other aspects of these trucks such as vacume, timing, ect. Hope this helps if you run into any other problems post em up and we will take a crack at them. If you are looking into rebuilding the engine yourself I would suggest buying the book " How to rebuild the small-block ford" it is available at most parts stores.
1. Fuel - make sure you are getting good clean fuel into the combustion chamber.
2. Spark - make sure you are getting a good spark all the way through the wires and the proper voltage to the plug.
3. Air - make sure there is a sufficient amount of air getting into the combustion chamber.
If you ensure that you are getting all three of these you will have a running engine. Maybe not the best running but running none the less. Then you can look into other aspects of these trucks such as vacume, timing, ect. Hope this helps if you run into any other problems post em up and we will take a crack at them. If you are looking into rebuilding the engine yourself I would suggest buying the book " How to rebuild the small-block ford" it is available at most parts stores.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Peoria, Arizona
The motor is the in line 6 300 4.9L engine. one barrel. Any thoughts on whether it is a good idea to replace the manifold and carb to get two barrels?
I pulled off one of the spark plug wires and the connector disintegrated into dust ... So I have replaced the distributor cap/wires but I don't have the manual yet for the truck. Anyone know what the gap is for these spark plugs? It didn't start even with two batteries and the new wires. I think that they are the original factory plugs/wireset/distributor cap...
Thanks for the welcome!! I imagine I will be annoying all of you for months/years into the future
I pulled off one of the spark plug wires and the connector disintegrated into dust ... So I have replaced the distributor cap/wires but I don't have the manual yet for the truck. Anyone know what the gap is for these spark plugs? It didn't start even with two batteries and the new wires. I think that they are the original factory plugs/wireset/distributor cap...
Thanks for the welcome!! I imagine I will be annoying all of you for months/years into the future
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: East Bernstadt, Ky
I know my 255 takes a .044 gap but yours can vary. Another good place to get specifications and repair info is AutoZone.com | Repair Info
autozone.com has alot of info and also a good place to rent specialty tools if you need them.
autozone.com has alot of info and also a good place to rent specialty tools if you need them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: patricia ab canada
your spark plug gap should be on the emissions label on the rad support,along with ignition timing.
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Elder User
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From: Peoria, Arizona
Autozone didnt have any info on it. I called up ford and my year is the oldest year they have records on. .044
I'm going to gap and screw in these new plugs and see what happens. If it doesnt start I dont know where to go from there but I've decided to rebuild it myself anyway!
I foresee a purchase of "How to rebuild the small-block ford" in my future.
How strong of an engine stand would I need and how do I find out how heavy my motor is?
Sure am needy aren't I?
I'm going to gap and screw in these new plugs and see what happens. If it doesnt start I dont know where to go from there but I've decided to rebuild it myself anyway!
I foresee a purchase of "How to rebuild the small-block ford" in my future.
How strong of an engine stand would I need and how do I find out how heavy my motor is?
Sure am needy aren't I?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: East Bernstadt, Ky
Well just guessing off the top of my head I would say about 400 lbs for the complete motor but again that is just a guess. You can get a pretty cheap stand at harbor freight if you are only planning to rebuild a couple motors but not if its going to have constant use. Just make sure you get one that will rotate the engine this makes things alot easier.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 398
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From: Liverpool, NY
if after you got your plugs gap'd and installed and it still dont turn, check your tank. Whatever gas' left in there's probly laquored over. When I bought my 88 F150 I had to drop the front tank and replace the entire sending unit because the screen was clogged and the whole assembly was gummed up. Just my 2 cents.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Peoria, Arizona
What is the best way to get the engine completely clean after disassembly? Any magic sprays or materials I need to know about?
What is the easiest way to get the darn engine out? What should I disconnect from the main assembly prior to removal?
Anyone know of a shop in my area that bores out cylinders?
So how do I completely drain the fuel system?
I can drop the tank and up end it. How do I make sure that there isn't any lacquer left in it?
What about the fuel lines? Should I replace those as well? How do I get the gas out of them?
I'm just full of questions and you guys are great. Thanks again!
What is the easiest way to get the darn engine out? What should I disconnect from the main assembly prior to removal?
Anyone know of a shop in my area that bores out cylinders?
So how do I completely drain the fuel system?
I can drop the tank and up end it. How do I make sure that there isn't any lacquer left in it?
What about the fuel lines? Should I replace those as well? How do I get the gas out of them?
I'm just full of questions and you guys are great. Thanks again!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 398
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From: Liverpool, NY
1. Gumout works pretty good at cleaning up grease and what not, so does orange clean(never tried it on parts though)
2. Loosen bolts, holster it out with a cherry picker
3. dunno
4. carefuly disconnect the lines, then the straps that hold the tank. I don't think theres an easier way to get whatever gas is in there out(that's safe anyhow).
5. If you look in the tank and it looks all shiney inside, that's all laquored. You can't really get rid of it(you might try seafoam or some gast tank cleaner/acid, but not even that stuff really works). iow, if it's laquored inside, you need a new tank.
6. if the lines look good, they probly are. I wouldn't touch em unless their rusting holes like on my buddy's chevy.
7. questions are the only way to get answers, and without them you don't gain any real knowledge.
whew! hope that helps any.
2. Loosen bolts, holster it out with a cherry picker
3. dunno
4. carefuly disconnect the lines, then the straps that hold the tank. I don't think theres an easier way to get whatever gas is in there out(that's safe anyhow).
5. If you look in the tank and it looks all shiney inside, that's all laquored. You can't really get rid of it(you might try seafoam or some gast tank cleaner/acid, but not even that stuff really works). iow, if it's laquored inside, you need a new tank.
6. if the lines look good, they probly are. I wouldn't touch em unless their rusting holes like on my buddy's chevy.
7. questions are the only way to get answers, and without them you don't gain any real knowledge.
whew! hope that helps any.
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 566
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From: SC
Just a suggestion or two. While "How to rebuild the small block Ford" is an excellent book, it will be of very limited value to you because the 300 inline six engine is not a "small block".
Most commonly available engine stands are rated at 750 or 1000 pounds. If you put your 300 on a 750 pounds stand it may be too to "bouncy" for your taste (It gave em the ****** on mine). A 1000 pound stand would be better. It's not the actual weight, it's because the engine is a lot longer than a V8.
I wouldn't be in too big of a rush to rebuild the engine. Best to focus on why it won't start first. Most often it's because of some sort of reasonably simple failure. But just because the failure may be simple doesn't mean it necessarily mean it will be simple to find/figure out. Keep in mind that there are likely multiple failures after sitting so long.
Most commonly available engine stands are rated at 750 or 1000 pounds. If you put your 300 on a 750 pounds stand it may be too to "bouncy" for your taste (It gave em the ****** on mine). A 1000 pound stand would be better. It's not the actual weight, it's because the engine is a lot longer than a V8.
I wouldn't be in too big of a rush to rebuild the engine. Best to focus on why it won't start first. Most often it's because of some sort of reasonably simple failure. But just because the failure may be simple doesn't mean it necessarily mean it will be simple to find/figure out. Keep in mind that there are likely multiple failures after sitting so long.
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Elder User
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From: Peoria, Arizona
I'm not deciding to rebuild it solely on the basis of me not being able to get it started now.
The engine has been overheated dozens of times apparently. Also the oil was only changed every 12,000ish miles... NO general maintenance has been performed on it including hoses.
When it was running it burned more oil than gas and leaked like a siv. It has over 250,000 miles on it.
I'm thinking it is time for an overhaul
The engine has been overheated dozens of times apparently. Also the oil was only changed every 12,000ish miles... NO general maintenance has been performed on it including hoses.
When it was running it burned more oil than gas and leaked like a siv. It has over 250,000 miles on it.
I'm thinking it is time for an overhaul