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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Advice needed front axle

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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 04:48 AM
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Advice needed front axle

Hi I have a 51 F2, and want to go to a 5 lug set up, can I get a later year front beam with5 stud hubs and drums and fit, are they the same axles as the F2, if not any advice on the way forward?
thanks Chris
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 05:02 AM
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Easiest would be swap in an F1 front axle - they are the same. Then use a 9" ford rear 57 thru 72 (same width) and a mostly bolt in swap.

That would give you 5x5.5" wheels on all corners

Haven't done it but I would assume any later solid axle would be the same width up until Ford went with twin I-beam.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 10:20 AM
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The axles are the same from 48-52 on the F-1, 2 and 3's. The only difference is the hubs and brakes. You could use F-1 hubs and brakes if you wanted to stay stock, or you can use a disc brake conversion kit for an F-1 and it will fit directly on your current axle.

Axles from later years do not fit. The front of the frame was widened in 53 by 2", so the spring pad locations on the axle are too wide and won't fit under the 52 or earlier trucks.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 10:37 AM
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The cost of F1 drums is so high that I'd be inclined to seriously consider the disc option, although that might give you a 5 x 4.5" bolt circle and likely requires a brake booster. The 4.5" BC would actually work well with an 8.8 rear axle.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 11:19 AM
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Aftermarket disc kits are available in the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. The power booster would be a recommended addition when doing the swap.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 12:26 PM
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OK chaps that's very helpful, so can I use hubs from a later model or do they have to be specific to the year of the truck, if someone could link me up to a disc brake kit as an alternative
that would be cool, someone has put a later axle on the rear with a 5 stud set up,not sure what year its came from.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 02:08 PM
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48-52 f1 hubs only.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 02:53 PM
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Your rear axle appears to be a Dana 44. It may have been transplanted from a 1/2 ton truck of a similar year. As far as the front goes it’s possible to use hubs off a ‘53-‘56 truck on your spindles also. It will make the front track width about 1/2” or so wider, but they will allow you to use the much less expensive ‘53-‘63 drums. The backing plates and brake components are the same from ‘48 through at least ‘56.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 03:17 PM
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Thanks for all for your help everybody.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 03:41 PM
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As I recall you also need a bearing adapter to use later 53-56 hubs, I think Speedway sells them. Just for the inner, I think.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 03:58 PM
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Cheers for the info,I will be back with more questions from over the pond soon.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 04:00 PM
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I also have just found some more info here,
https://droppedaxles.com/ford-f100-brake-installation
 
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Old Nov 25, 2019 | 12:21 PM
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I have a 1950 F2 and I agree that the F1 & F2 front axles are the same and that the best way to get 5 lug front hubs is by going to disc brakes. I got mine from Speedway motors:
Front Disc Brake kits at Speedway Motors

You should also go with a dual chamber master cylinder for safety. Here there are a few things to consider:
  1. Are you going with disc brakes in the rear or drum? The master cylinders come disc/drum or disc/disc with the difference being in the built in pressure relief valve(s). You have to choose the right one but if you change your mind there are external valves that you can add.
  2. Are you going to use the factory pedals in which case you will need an underfloor kit AND a remote fill kit. This was tricky when I did it because only F1 kits were available. But with just a few minor changes I made the CPP kit fit just fine. Here is the link to the thread that I created on how I did it (with pictures) https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-48-52-f2.html. Make sure that the remote fill reservoir is translucent so you can easily see the fluid level. Price is not any indicator of usefulness. This is the one that I used from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-rrck/
  3. If you decide that you want to use hanging pedals then you will need to reinforce the firewall or cracks will eventually develop. This of course also takes up space in the engine compartment. But it doesn't need a remote fill.
  4. There is now a third alternative which is electronic booster with master cylinder. See https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Compa...Disc,8335.html. It is a bit pricey and probably requires hanging pedals. I don't know anything about how these are installed. Maybe somebody here knows. They would require a switch to a 12v power which isn't a big deal but is added cost. The race car crowd like them as they are light weight and require less space.
As for rear axle I went with a rear axle from a 2001 Ford Explorer Sportrac. The width was correct but I had to cut off the spring perches and re-weld at the correct location on the other side of the axle. Be sure to check your pinion angle before rewelding,

Hope this helps. Here are a few pictures:







.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2019 | 04:19 PM
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Thanks Pete, Great info, but I have decided to sell my truck and then start looking for a more up together early F1.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2019 | 04:41 PM
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Wow...that's a big pile of rust off of your rear axel!...... good thing you have a bucket on your loader!...
 
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