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Did some searching no real results. just purchased a 2016 f150 king ranch crew cab 6.5 bed. blue jeans blue. Was looking for pictures of all terrain on it. possibly might level it. haven't decided
Nice truck! Yours sits like mine did when it was new. I also have the 6.5’ bed and I’m going to guess you have Max Tow due to how high the rear is.
Mine has a 2.25” level in front and the rear remains stock, although it could use another inch. I have 34.5” Raptor wheels and tires. Yours would look good with a 2” level and 275/65/20s (34.1”) on those factory wheels.
Mine is black, but the same cab and bed configuration are the same, so you kind of get an idea.
Did some searching no real results. just purchased a 2016 f150 king ranch crew cab 6.5 bed. blue jeans blue. Was looking for pictures of all terrain on it. possibly might level it. haven't decided
here is my Blue Jean Lariat with Bilstein 5100's all around. Front set at 1.7 lift. Falken Wildpeaks have been happy with them. I drive mostly highway minimal off road.
here is my Blue Jean Lariat with Bilstein 5100's all around. Front set at 1.7 lift. Falken Wildpeaks have been happy with them. I drive mostly highway minimal off road.
I’m confused. Great stance, but when I go to look up the 5100’s, they say “For lifted trucks”. It says nothing about being adjustable. Are they adjustable? I’m looking to level my 2019 Lariat, and for the $200 difference to go to shocks over a front spacer, I’d pass on a front level spacer and go with 5100’s. I’ll likely need airbags for when I tow to limit sagging.
Sorry to hijack.
Smoke
I’m confused. Great stance, but when I go to look up the 5100’s, they say “For lifted trucks”. It says nothing about being adjustable. Are they adjustable? I’m looking to level my 2019 Lariat, and for the $200 difference to go to shocks over a front spacer, I’d pass on a front level spacer and go with 5100’s. I’ll likely need airbags for when I tow to limit sagging.
Sorry to hijack.
Smoke
Yes, the 5100's for the front ARE adjustable, the rears, no.
One thing to caution about the leveling shocks is the more height you dial in the rougher the ride gets. I did the 2" AutoSpring pucks with the stock shocks and there was no difference in the ride.
Correct. The spacers above the shocks add no preload. Setting the Bilsteins on the highest perch (2.1”) will make the ride much more firm.
I used the ReadyLift 2.25” spacers made of billet aluminum. My shocks were brand new, so it seemed like a waste to get rid off them. The ride is the same as it was without the lift.
Here are a couple pics, not too good but I'll try to get better pics soon of my mods and post a thread. 305/55/20s, Nitto Ridge Grapplers, 2" AutoSpring pucks, 2.25 Halo blocks in the back.
I actually had the rough country 2.5 leveling spacers on my 2016 F150 Lariat super crew 4wd 6.5 bed put about 50,000 miles on them (before it was crashed). I like the ride better with the 5100's set at 1.7 lift on my second 2016 pretty much same truck other the old truck was 3.31 rear. I guess its a bit subjective. but getting off topic
I put 5100's on my truck at the highest setting (2.1"), still not completely level. Ride was stiff at first but it loosens up a bit after a thousand miles or so, now I think the ride is pretty comparable to stock.
Few things bother me as much as the clowns who have their truck tires extending past the fenders. They have cost me 4 windshields and a radiator from the rocks they threw up into the air. Does anyone actually think that they will get more traction by having the tires sticking out from the sides of the truck?
Leveling depends on how you will use the truck. I did not level mine as it often has a 1000 lb plus load in the bed and with the load the bed is level (actually it is leve with 3x that amount of load) and my headlights are not shining in the faces of oncoming drivers.
Correct. The spacers above the shocks add no preload. Setting the Bilsteins on the highest perch (2.1”) will make the ride much more firm.
I used the ReadyLift 2.25” spacers made of billet aluminum. My shocks were brand new, so it seemed like a waste to get rid off them. The ride is the same as it was without the lift.
JKBrad, not to keep the thread hijaked, I see conflicting ways you should measure. Ground to fender lip front and back and deduct difference? Or, center of hub front and back and deduct difference. It seems it would be the same, but some say a 2” spacer only netted 1.5” of nose lift. I don’t want 1.75” if I’m expecting 2.25”.
To be most accurate, measure from the center of the hub to the top of the wheel opening radius. A puck/spacer will not sag over time. The spring on your shocks will somewhat over time. The more preload you put on that spring, the quicker it will begin to sag.
Everything is a compromise. I used a billet aluminum spacer because I wanted no sag over time. The shocks were new and I saw no sense in replacing them. I may go with Bilsteins at replacement time. I have thought about leaving them on the lowest setting and keeping my leveling spacers in order to get the best ride and longevity.
But Bilsteins use the coil springs the truck comes with. I may consider new coil springs at that time. I still have a ways to go though as I’m not yet at 50k miles. I don’t start thinking about shocks until about 80k miles or until there is a need.
